Ok, heres the deal; I have some 3m cleaner wax, and a walmart orbital buffer. Im going to wash (meg gold class), dry (ww towel) then I want to wax with the 3m, then finish it off with nxt 2.0 using the cheap buffer. Here's my question, what type of pads do i need to go over the buffer and how many to put it on and take it off? If im not mistaken, u put it on with the buffer and take wipe it off by hand correct? Plz no replies about using different wax or polisher, I know what I should use, but dont have it and will be using only what I have. Just asking for help on my situation, I know u guys really know your stuff so dont flame me to hard for what Im using. A lil info on how to go about it will be nice also; do's and dont's.

 

I don't know much about this whole detailing thing, but I do have a Wal-mart orbital. Yours uses a little bonnet, right? I think you can choose between terry cloth and microfiber.

If it were me, I'd just apply the wax by hand. I'd fear that the cheap bonnets might end up scratching up the paint.

 

I've never used an orbital. They scare me. I'd do it by hand.

If you must use the orbital, use a MF bonnet to apply, MF towel to remove.

 

I used an orbital like that for nearly 10 years. Untill very recently in fact.
They have a single fixed pad. You can buy bonnits made of terry cloth, Micro fiber, and synthetic wool. I've had all three and for the last few years only used the MF ones. They won't do much cleaning but are nice for wax application.

Some users will put the wax on with the machine and take it off with a clean bonnet but most just take it off by hand.

 

I have a 9'' Sears buffer from 20 yrs ago that I still use to this day. But I dont use the terry cloth or Microfiber I use Foam bonett to apply all detailing products except clay and remove everything by hand with Microfiber towels.

 

So your saying the orbital buffer won't take out the minor swirl marks and imperfections???

 

Probably not. The products you mentioned won't do much either. If anything they might "hide" stuff for a while, but you won't be doing any actual correction.

 

Well a nieghbor "bragged" about the 3m cleaner wax, and I have to say from seeing his befor after of his truck, I was impressed. But like u said, could be hiding it instead of correcting it. So if u were me with a very limited budget, time and know how; what would u do/use. If you were me.

 

Have you ever used a orbital buffer before? Honestly, I'd say just give it a good cleaning and wax it until you can afford a G100 and the supplies. A orbital buffer in inexperienced hands can yield VERY expensive damage.

 

See if you can find any Megs #80 and #9 at a local auto parts store. Since you don't have a DA you won't see spectacular results, but by hand you should be better off than a cleaner wax. I know I've seen #7, #26 and a few others at parts stores. They usually keep them with the Bondo and such, since the average weekend washer doesn't "detail."

If not, pick up some Scratch-x for any heavy scratching you have, go ahead and use the cleaner wax (I don't know anything about 3M, but I'm sure Meg's has something similar/better.) Follow up with your LSP.

 

I agree that if you've never held an orbital you can cause some damage. Wrong pad, wrong product, wrong speed, wrong pressure, etc. I can't personally add anything other than words of caution on using one, because I've never picked one up.

 

Here's my suggestion:

After washing and drying, before using the 3M stuff, do a clay job. A clay kit is $15 VERY well spent. Megs or Mother's are both fine. I believe they both come with a sample size cleaner/wax that I'd consider using instead of the 3M, they may do a better job of surface prep than the 3M. Comments from someone in the know on all these products are solicited.

Go ahead and use your orbital with decent quality bonnets (I'm not qualified to advise on exactly what type of bonnet) to apply the 3M or other cleaner/wax, and remove it by HAND with a MF. Practice on a less visible area to see exactly how the stuff works - I'd probably use the roof.

Apply the NXT by hand with the foam applicator it comes with. It's not hard work, you don't have to polish it in hard, just make sure you use a very thin coat. Remove by hand with MF. Wait at least 12 hours, then put on a second coat if you want.

 

If it is the el cheapo orbital buffers you are talking about like this one: http://www.antonline.com/p_2068-GP_338792.htm Then the probability of doing any damage whatsoever is almost slim to none. You would stall the motor in the buffer before you could come close to damaging the paint.

If it is this type of buffer you have: http://www.detailking.com/content/view/79/187/

Then yes, major damage can be done if you do not know what you are doing.

If you do not want my advice on products and would like to use your own, that is fine, however it may not yield the desired results. With what you have, you need a foam bonnet for your buffer to apply the cleaner/wax.

You would:

Wash
Dry
Apply the cleaner wax with buffer working a 2x2 ft area at a time moving in a cross-hatch pattern, you will apply the product with the buffer until it starts to become dry, once it becomes dry (right before you are atually removing the product completely, stop buffing and remove the haze with a microfiber towel. Once you have done this to the whole vehicle (with an el-cheapo buffer, this is probably 8 hrs into the game if its done right) then you will apply your NXT (not a bad wax at all IMHO). There is not much sense in applying the NXT with the buffer, just do it by hand.

The reason I say to apply the 3m with the buffer and not the NXT is the 3m is a cleaner/wax combo. Neither of them are polish but you will want the most muscle in this case behind the cleaner/wax. Using the buffer with the NXT will not do much for you. I rarely apply wax with a buffer, only polish.

Using these products mentioned will not likely yield any paint correction, but will likely yield a decent shine and swirl cover-up.

 

Excellent post. I still think that you should clay, it will make the job easier afterwards and give you much better end results.

 

Yes, I do agree 100%. I didnt mention it as he said he didnt was to buy any other products. But it almost behooves (sp?) him to clay...especially given you can pickup a decent clay bar and lube at auto-zone or equivalent for $15-20.