I know you all are probably going to cringe at the look of my paint, but here it goes.

This is an 04 and has sat in the sun for its entire life, been exposed to every element possible, and I have made an executive decision that it needs some work. I had an earlier thread about thoughts on products I was going to use, but I figured I would now just let you all tell me.

I know it will never be perfect, but I do know that it is definatly capable of looking better than it does.

Some Background:

I have kept a good coat of wax on it at all times. I have clayed when necessary, and I always use micro-fiber towels to dry.

There are some water spots from sprinklers that have gone off around the truck.

I just noticed this weekend there is over-spray from who knows where, but it does come off with two or three passes with the clay. It is concentrated on the front area of the truck.

I had to have a door repainted, because some kid decided it would be fun to carve a sketch in my driver door, and since then I have noticed that there is some oxidation in the older paint.

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I am almost thinking that this may be a job strickly for an rotary buffer, but after seeing the results from attworths truck after RollingRock got ahold of it I think the paint still has a chance of revival.

I can get my hands on a Porter Cable D/A. All advice is appreciated! https://www.f150online.com/forums/im...s/thumbsup.gif

 

There are many products to use and it's merely personal preference. However this is how I would go about it.

Wash
Clay
Meguiars #83, I've never used it but I can imagine that since it has a higher cut it might be needed for your paint. I can't really tell just by the picture, but it looks pretty bad.
Meguiars #80
Meguiars #9
NXT 2.0 or #21(Two coats with 12 hour cure time in between coats)
Topped with Meguiars #26 or Gold Class.

I highly recommend AutoDetailingSolutions as well, I hope this helps.

 

Would you use the pads and speed settings Meguiars suggests?

 

Correct, I'm assuming you're talking about the sheet that says "G100; Products, Recommended Pad & Speed."

 

Looks like your typical swirls and scratches. Heres my process based on that one picture. Realize this is not a full detail outline. This is just for the paint and nothing else.

Wash with Chemical Guys Citrus Wash n Gloss

Clay with Clay Magic blue

Rewash real quick

Start polishing with Menzerna SIP or IP and a 5.5" Lake Country white pad. Using the Porter Cable on speed 6. (Id be using a rotary here, but you said you only have a PC). If that isnt enough, then step up to an orange pad. As you finish each 2x2 section, wipe it down with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water. You do this because some of the oils in the polish may be hiding some imperfections. Continue to go over the section until you are happy with it.

After all imperfections and buffer marks are gone, go over the paint again with a 5.5" blue pad using Menzerna 106FF or FP. As you finish each 2x2 section, wipe it down with a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water. Then rewash the car to remove any dust from the polish.

Then you're ready for your protection. Whatever you would like to use.

P.S. you may also want to look into 4" pads.

 

Where can you purchase Menzerna? Does the Menzerna SIP polish have a cut to it, or is the cut coming from the Lake Country pad?

 

You can knock a lot of that down, bit will take patience, and multiple passes, as mentioned above.


If you use Menzerna, I would follow the SIP with FP myself, not the 106FF. I have found FP to work better than the 106FF when using a PC. I much prefer the 106FF with a rotary.


Like Dan mentioned, I would be using a rotary on it if I was working on the truck.

 

My eyes tell me it is going to be a pretty long project for a PC and still wont yeild perfect results.

Gipraw- Do you know any detailers in the Dallas area that are not insanely expensive and do great work.

 

I purchase a lot of my stuff from Detailers Domain. The cut is coming both from the SIP and the pad.

That would most likely be the case.

Cheap work usually wont be great work. I know of a guy in Dallas, not personally however. I will get his contact info for you.

 

Thanks 03gtmustang,

Few more questions- Are Menzerna products easier to work with than Meguiars, or is it a personal preference.

Also, in Dallas there is always that shop that everyone raves about that charges an arm and a leg, and it is not even work that is worthy of the cost.

 

I'm sure you already read this, but RR used PB's swirl remover on my truck. Specifically 3 followed by 1. He was careful to work the product in real well and allow it to break down properly before stopping. We followed with PB's Pro Polish and then Polish & Sealant.

I can't speak on his behalf, but RR seemed very happy with his Menzerna (I don't recall which one he used.) He did SSR1 followed by Menzerna and EX-P to touch up his truck - It was not nearly as bad as your's though.

 

Id pick Menzerna over Megs any day. But Menzerna can be difficult sometimes under certain conditions.

 

The only guy I know just moved to Amarillo.

Steve, the guy that owns Tropi-care is based out of Dallas. I am sure he could recommend someone. Several of the Tropi-care reps live in the Dallas area, and those guys are pretty good, from what I have seen and heard, although I have no first hand experience with any of them.

There is a pretty big Meg's supplier in Dallas, whose name is escaping me right now. the should be able to recommend someone also, if they don't do it themselves...

and I would agree with Dan .. good and cheap usually don't go together.

 

Wash Solutions?

I don't know if they do in-house stuff but I know they can recommend good places.

 

Ok, so since I am on a budget the best route is to tackle this myself.

If Menzerna can be a difficult product to work with then I will have to pass on it. I am looking for a great all around product which is extremely easy to work with.

Thanks for all your help. If any other have suggestions I am still listening