How do you apply a wax around the trim without getting it on the trim. I'm thinking about trying an orbital buffer, but wanted to know how to dodge trim, yet I don't want to neglect the paint up around the trim areas. I searched but came up with nothing, any help is appreciated!

 

Mask it off with blue painters tape.

 

dang, thats a super idea, i never thought about that!!!!!

 

i did that when i did a three step process by hand, it worked well then, but i didn't know about a buffer hiting it. Its not a high speed, but i wasn't sure. BTW when you do this make sure you take all the tape off, I ended up riding around town that night with a line of blue tape around my grill

 

another quick question or two, would it be better to apply by hand or by machine? Also what would you reccommend for a final wax? synthetic or carnauba?

 

The tape stays on fine even if you bump it with a buffer. Personally I like the green tape a little better, seems to stick better than the blue.

As for applying by hand vs. machine I'd say go with the machine. I think it's easier to apply a more even, thinner coat when working with a machine. Of course if you're doing multiple passes the machine is even better. I like to remove by hand.

On the topic of synthetic vs. carnuba do a search, there's tons of info in this forum about it. The general consensus is that carnuba over synthetic is the best balance of looks and protection. Be sure to give the synthetic time to cure before putting on the carnuba.

 

what happens if you don't let the synthetic cure? Also, i've read and read all morning, but everyone has their own preferences.

 

I've done syn then carnauba immediately after with no problems, BUT, this sacrifices the durability. I was after a looks standpoint (and wanted to get that customer back in a month--it's OK, she was aware of it). If you want the durability of a syn, you have to let it cure, but you also have to risk thrashing your paint...Make sure that the next day when you go to do the carnauba, you use a really nice MF towel and a good QD spray, and go top to bottom, front to back. This will *help* prevent swirls/straight line scratches.

G'Luck!!!

 

Just what f150sport03 said. Synthetics take 12-24 hours to completely cure and bond to the surface. If you don't let it cure you'll be taking some of it off when you put the carnuba on. As f150sport03 said it will still look great - you'll just lose some of the durability. Also make sure you use a pure wax - not a cleaner wax! Meguiar's #26 and S100 are popular choices. There are also a couple of Duragloss fans around here too (one rabid one!). I've got some but haven't had the chance to try it yet so I can't comment.

 

I now use Duragloss shine products. None of the Duragloss products will stain trim. And all are PC friendly. Ya gotta figure if ya can read text on a piece of paper in the side of your truck, it's pretty good stuff.

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Nice pic rusty. I am by no means an expert on detailing a car but I did read on a few other detail and care oriented forums that if you detail the trim areas first before you wax it will greatly reduce the chance of the wax or polish absorbing into the trim.

 

Old habits die hard.

Duragloss actually makes the trim look brand new. Slop it on everything. Wipes right off.

 

Again, another easy one.

I use a piece of straight edge metal, with the straight edge blunted with a piece of duct tape. I place the blunted end in the groove between the paint and the trim and apply my Mother's Carnuba Clearner & Wax by hand to an approx 3" strip. No expense of tape each time I wax. Use the same piece of metal over and over. Such metal can be found in Hardware stores sold as household roof flashing. Make the piece of flashing large enough, approx 10X12" so your metal holding hand will not be in the way of your waxing hand. You may also bend the flashing at an angle to get your holding hand even further out of the path of your waxing hand.

 

Come on Rusty... I can take my 1978 with NO wax on it since 1993 and I can read a something written on a piece of paper... geeesh.

 

Several folks use a similar procedure with a piece of sturdy cardboard... this works great.

I still prefer painters tape -- probably because I use it out of habit -- but, I also have a piece of cardboard that is taped up with painters tape to work edges by hand.

I will admit that it's a bit clumsy when I'm using the PC or rotary (nearly impossible to do with the rotary). Either way though, it works.

-RP-