When cleaning the foam pads.

Do you use it straight up, or dilute it? Or what is the best way to clean pads using Murphy's. Can I soak them, say, overnight in it?

I have the Edge 2000 double side pads.

 

I just put a little bit on the pad, and then work it in with my hands and thumbs under the warm running water .. works fine for me that way ..

I would not soak your pads .. Edge specifically warns against doing that, as it can cause the pads to seperate from the flexible plate.

 

X2...

I typically use about a quarter-sized amount per pad. If the pad is extra saturated, maybe a tad more.

Also, the pads clean better once the polish/wax has DRIED.

 

>>>Also, the pads clean better once the polish/wax has DRIED.<<<


Well that's good to know, cause that's exactly what has happened. I set the polisher down and forgot all about the pad.

I've read where others have soaked overnight, but that didn't seem to be the right way to go.

Thanks.

 

for the price of a pad vs. the price of paint...i never keep a pad more than 6 months and keep 4 to 6 on hand at all times. you got to have a good selection one for glazes, one for compounds and one for final polish. not one pad will do it all. one pad for all and old at that good chance at killing your paint. but the machine is almost if not more important than the pad. got to have a variable speed, random orbital for the most part are too slow and just make waxing your car easy. they just dont have any speed to make a compound or glaze work right. alot like a porter cable random, and its good for the weekend wax in the driveway, but will not take out little swirls, much less big ones like a real pro direct drive machine.

and keep you pads clean, take them off the machine and put in a plastic bag when not in use. make sure they are dry when placing into bag or they will mildew. mark the bag with what you use on them, like the one for a glaze then the one for wax. so when the next time you use it you will not "mix" the products.

 

are you saying the PC can't be used for swirl removal ??

If so .. then I would have to say you are flat out wrong .. and I don't say that very often to people.

If I am misunderstanding you, then please explain further ..

 

>>>but will not take out little swirls, much less big ones like a real pro direct drive machine.<<<

Hmmm....I don't know about that one. I even got the acid rain etching completely gone/removed using my PC, on black paint. And, it didn't take that long at all, about an hour, with coffee breaks and cleaning the pad. Matter of fact, I thought any swirl marks to be way less of a problem compared to acid rain etch. I do have a high speed rotary, but I for the life of me can't see why I would need it, considering all it's novice vulnerabilities. The PC is pretty fail safe in my judgment. Maybe not as fast, but I kinda like that it's a slower process using a PC.

I didn't think this looked to bad really. Check out the right side compared to the left--did it with the PC.

 

PCs can work wonders my friend...






- NCSU

 

While a rotary may be slightly more efficient than a PC, I still elect to go with a PC over my rotary most of the time -- that is, unless I'm doing some serious compounding or something to that effect.

The PC, albeit a fairly safe tool, is a VERY effective device for the removal of most surficial paint problems.... I say 'most'; not all.

Also, the PC is MUCH easier to use and is MUCH more friendly. My Makita is a heavy booger -- the PC is easy to handle -- especially on a detail that encompasses a HUGE area -- say, like an Expedition or Excursion. While I've used a rotary over the entire area of a vehicle this size on more than one occasion -- I try to not make it a habit.