hi,
kinda new to the area of detailing.
ive read alot here and correct me if im wrong but i never see in your detailing guides some of you have posted, that use of tar or bug remover is used.
my truck is white, and after a hand wash there are bug specs and yellow marks that i suppose is remnants of tar.
how do i remove this, i see some saying that clay bar for tar and bugs ???
do you not use chemical removal anymore??

cant believe how bad it gets in just a few months wow

this is bout the only part i dont understand !!!

 

Clay also removes stubborn sap, tar, and bug splatter. Detailing clay works wonder on glass as well. Try some the next time you’re washing your windows. You’ll be amazed at the results!

Info Link below.

http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html

 

I use the tar and bug remover to get rid of a majority of the junk and if needed use the clay bar. You should not use the clay bar on really dirty areas, it will pick up too much garbage to fast and will become useless unless you like scratching your paint. Clay bars are more for the contaniments you can feel and not see.

 

thanks that really helps , so i should prob wash, tar and bug remove , wash again and then clay if ness ? then wax ?

 

sounds like a good process. for extreme tar, if the clay and the tar/bug remover doesn't remove it that is, then take you some regular dawn detergent and put it on your fingers. Then rub the tar area until it comes off. You will need to make sure you rinse off or re-wash the area and definitely polish and wax as the detergent will remove wax and/or any other paint protection you have on there.

 

I like to remove all nasties that won't come off with a regular was by doing as themetersmce said: dawn. But for tar or adhesives, WD-40 works great.

I'm not against bug/tar remover...I just don't feel like buying it when I have plenty of other solutions.

But, yes, clay will get it, it's just that it can gunk up VERY quick with bug guts.

 

110% correct.

Also, I should follow with something to the effect of making sure to reapply wax to the areas where you may utilize chemicals to remove problems. Clay, in and of itself, will not remove the 'staining' that some tar specks cause. As such, you may have to utilize a paint cleaner and/or something else to remove that type of problem on your paint.

Keeping these areas adequately waxed/protected, will make a world of difference in removing this type of stuck on crud when it comes time to deal with it. Just remember, when you use a B&T remover or WD40 (toluene in a can) or similar, you will be removing the surficial protection and, as such, you should reapply.

Don't be affraid to use a B&T... just use it sparingly and allow it adequate 'dwell' time on the problem that you're trying to deal with.

RP

 

Just be careful when using clay bar, use an adequate amount of waterless wash or something with a good amount of lubricity, because it can scratch your clearcoat.

 

I've been a long time reader of this site and just wanted to say thanks for the clay bar idea! I have a 2003 F-150 supercrew 5.4 4wd. Someday I will learn how to put some pictures on this site.

 

Try this for bugs/tar/etc on the front and rear of your vehicle. Wet the area like you are going to wash. Then lightly rub the area with a Bounce Dryer Sheet. Then spray off with the water hose. I'm in SE Texas and bugs do get bad here. First time I tried this I couldn't believe it, the bugs just melt away. I use to scrub with a netted sponge for long periods. Not anymore. It even works great on the Acrylic headlight covers with no scratching. Smells nice too I haven't found that this method removes the wax like WD-40 and other harsh chemicals. I think it is the combo of the fabric softner and the sheet material that works so well.

 

Well who would've thunk??? Thanks for the tip, may try that next time!

 

I can vouch for the dryer sheet to remove bugs method. I was amazed the first time I tried it....the bugs just wipe away with little to no resistance.

 

Me too.

It really works

 

Hell, I thought everybody used dryer sheets. That one goes way back. Actually ya don't even have to use dryer sheets if you just dampen a MF with liquid fabric softener. Same difference I guess.