Faded Bed Rails (Pics)
What Is Vinyl?
Vinyl is a plastic made from
polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Vinyl is
manufactured in different ways
in a number of forms and in
varying qualities for thousands
of uses. A vinyl’s topcoat holds
in plasticizers, softening agents
which keep vinyl supple.
Vinyl is a UV-sensitive material which degrades
when exposed to sunlight. Maintaining the
integrity of the topcoat and protecting against
UV damage are the keys to keeping vinyl
looking and performing “like new”.
Keeping vinyl clean is an
important part of routine
maintenance. Dirt acts as an
abrasive and can also wear out
the thread in seams. Mildew
grows on damp, dirty vinyl.
The recommended vinyl cleaning method
1) Rinse with cool water.
2) Wash with 303 Convertible Top or
303 Aerospace Cleaner™, or soap and water,
using a soft mitt. For stubborn dirt, a soft
bristle brush may be used.
3) Rinse thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
4) Avoid harsh cleaners, abrasives, petroleum
distillates and alcohols*.
303 Saves Money And Adds
Years To The Life Of Your Vinyl
Without 303 With 303
Plasticizers escape through damaged
topcoat. Failure imminent.
Properly maintained topcoat.
Vinyl remains flexible and supple.
“SPF 40 SUNSCREEN... For Your Stuff”
303 Aerospace Protectant... is
your best choice for vinyl
care. Specifically developed
as a UV screening protective
treatment for aerospace and
aviation applications, “303”
provides all the protective
features necessary for
maintaining vinyl.
Simple Cleaning
Using the wrong vinyl “protectant”product is
worse than using no vinyl treatment product at all.
Avoid vinyl treatment products that contain any
type of oil, have an oily or greasy feeling,
contain petroleum distillates or leave a coating
that dries like wax. If a product label says
“flammable or contains petroleum distillates”,
do not use on vinyl.
Protecting Vinyl
1. “303” is the world’s most powerful UV
screening treatment for vinyl. Regular use
prevents UV fading and degradation. It truly
is like “SPF 40 Sunscreen... For Your Stuff ”.
2. “303” protected vinyl repels dust, dirt, oils,
tree sap and stains to maintain surface
integrity.
3. “303” restores lost color and luster. Makes
faded vinyl look like “factory new” again...
and with regular use keeps it that way.
4. “303” treated vinyl stays cleaner longer,
cleans up easier.
5. Easy application. Spray on, wipe dry.
6. Safe for rubber, plastic, glass and paint.
Reapplication: For maximum UV protection,
reapply every 30-45 days of EXPOSURE.
303 Aerospace Protectant is the most
manufacturer-recommended protectant, by
name brand manufacturers of vinyl convertible
tops, clear vinyl, tonneau covers, car bras, vinyl
RV awnings and spa covers.
Vinyl is a plastic made from
polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Vinyl is
manufactured in different ways
in a number of forms and in
varying qualities for thousands
of uses. A vinyl’s topcoat holds
in plasticizers, softening agents
which keep vinyl supple.
Vinyl is a UV-sensitive material which degrades
when exposed to sunlight. Maintaining the
integrity of the topcoat and protecting against
UV damage are the keys to keeping vinyl
looking and performing “like new”.
Keeping vinyl clean is an
important part of routine
maintenance. Dirt acts as an
abrasive and can also wear out
the thread in seams. Mildew
grows on damp, dirty vinyl.
The recommended vinyl cleaning method
1) Rinse with cool water.
2) Wash with 303 Convertible Top or
303 Aerospace Cleaner™, or soap and water,
using a soft mitt. For stubborn dirt, a soft
bristle brush may be used.
3) Rinse thoroughly with water and allow to dry.
4) Avoid harsh cleaners, abrasives, petroleum
distillates and alcohols*.
303 Saves Money And Adds
Years To The Life Of Your Vinyl
Without 303 With 303
Plasticizers escape through damaged
topcoat. Failure imminent.
Properly maintained topcoat.
Vinyl remains flexible and supple.
“SPF 40 SUNSCREEN... For Your Stuff”
303 Aerospace Protectant... is
your best choice for vinyl
care. Specifically developed
as a UV screening protective
treatment for aerospace and
aviation applications, “303”
provides all the protective
features necessary for
maintaining vinyl.
Simple Cleaning
Using the wrong vinyl “protectant”product is
worse than using no vinyl treatment product at all.
Avoid vinyl treatment products that contain any
type of oil, have an oily or greasy feeling,
contain petroleum distillates or leave a coating
that dries like wax. If a product label says
“flammable or contains petroleum distillates”,
do not use on vinyl.
Protecting Vinyl
1. “303” is the world’s most powerful UV
screening treatment for vinyl. Regular use
prevents UV fading and degradation. It truly
is like “SPF 40 Sunscreen... For Your Stuff ”.
2. “303” protected vinyl repels dust, dirt, oils,
tree sap and stains to maintain surface
integrity.
3. “303” restores lost color and luster. Makes
faded vinyl look like “factory new” again...
and with regular use keeps it that way.
4. “303” treated vinyl stays cleaner longer,
cleans up easier.
5. Easy application. Spray on, wipe dry.
6. Safe for rubber, plastic, glass and paint.
Reapplication: For maximum UV protection,
reapply every 30-45 days of EXPOSURE.
303 Aerospace Protectant is the most
manufacturer-recommended protectant, by
name brand manufacturers of vinyl convertible
tops, clear vinyl, tonneau covers, car bras, vinyl
RV awnings and spa covers.
Originally Posted by PMD GTO
I heard that peanut oil works really well when trying to get wax off of black plastic parts...
Eagle One Wax As U Dry works great on all plastic and soft bed covers. I can tell it has some cleaning agents in it because when I got my used 04 Lightning, the front grills where starting to fade, they where very light grey, but every time I wash I use Wax As U Dry on all plastic pieces, bed cover, wheel wells, etc... and every thing has cleaned up and darkened like brand new.
It's quick, easy, wont run when it rains, doesn't leave a thick/greasy feel or attract dust, just a new piece of plastic look/feel. You should of seen my wheel well plastic when I first got the truck compared to how it looks now, they look and feel like new. And it's not that tire shine covering up the dirt look, like I said, it must have some cleaning agents in it because even after a pressure wash (3700psi) and soap scrub, the stuff will pull dirt off the bed cover (microfiber will get dirty kinda like a clay bar will pull grime from washed paint).
So... no running when it rains, no thick/greasy residue feel, water beads, fast and easy (apply as you dry) plastic pieces will look better and darken and get cleaner the more you use it - a brand new natural look and not a overly-oily/greasy look/feel that will run or attract dust.
It's quick, easy, wont run when it rains, doesn't leave a thick/greasy feel or attract dust, just a new piece of plastic look/feel. You should of seen my wheel well plastic when I first got the truck compared to how it looks now, they look and feel like new. And it's not that tire shine covering up the dirt look, like I said, it must have some cleaning agents in it because even after a pressure wash (3700psi) and soap scrub, the stuff will pull dirt off the bed cover (microfiber will get dirty kinda like a clay bar will pull grime from washed paint).
So... no running when it rains, no thick/greasy residue feel, water beads, fast and easy (apply as you dry) plastic pieces will look better and darken and get cleaner the more you use it - a brand new natural look and not a overly-oily/greasy look/feel that will run or attract dust.
Originally Posted by wrobo23
no joke, a simple eraser will work very well, isn't that messy, and costs less than a dollar. you know the ones... those pretty pink ones?!? yup... scrub away... 

Using an eraser, you're obviously cleaning by abrasion. The same is true for the Mr Clean Magic Eraser...
One member here THRASHED all of his handles with the MrC ME... the plastic has a tendency to turn white when exposed to abrasion.
Light abrasion with the big pink will work -- I've used it -- but, don't get carried away and use a very light mist of water as a light lubricant.
Paint-em
When they get too bad too restore, pull them off ( they pop on into rectangle holes in the box ) clean them with a vinyl cleaner or plastic prep spray and a scotchbrite pad, rinse and dry, and put 3 or 4 coats of SEM spray plastic bumper coater. It comes in lots of colors including flat or semigloss black. I use that stuff for mirrors, moldings, ground effects, just about anything. Try it on your wiper arms when they get looking bad. Trailer hitch touchup, tube steps, you name it.
Originally Posted by bluejay432000
Do not use Back to Black. I used it a long time ago and that is when my "fading" started. It was actually the Back to Black turning white in the texture of the rail. It dries white. Looked like crap in about a week. I have not found any 303 at the stores but someone said the Turtle Wax Ice works well and will not turn. I can't hurt mine now, so will try that.
3 or 4 coats of SEM spray plastic bumper coater.
I know that this is an old post. but just wanted to put my input as today I have just done the chore of re-furbishing the rear windo plastic, and bed rail trim on my 99 extended cab long bed. First go over all plastic with soap and water with a common "new" scotch brite pad. tape and paper off bed and cab....this done correctley will take about an hour. next use a can of "Dupli.Color - TRIM PAINT" available at any Advance. do three coates on boath bed and rear window lining. .....untape and look at your masterpiece!!!! use same scotch-brite pad to remove unwanted trim dye off paint by lightly buffing with wet pad.............this really is an easy process and leaves the truck looking stock and beautiful!
303 would do really well. I haven't used it enough to tell you how well it will do, but its a good product. Megs makes an exterior plastic cleaner and an exterior plastic detailer/protectant, in case you can't find the 303.
the back to black product, as someone else said, is for those that aren't really bad at all. The problem is, is that it can make the situation worse. I used it several times and mine finally started showing the problems everyone else had with it leaving a white film on it. I ditched it.
there have been several great suggestions on the subject in the C&D section.
the back to black product, as someone else said, is for those that aren't really bad at all. The problem is, is that it can make the situation worse. I used it several times and mine finally started showing the problems everyone else had with it leaving a white film on it. I ditched it.
there have been several great suggestions on the subject in the C&D section.
I'm a big fan of 303, but it doesn't hold up too well under rain or that many washes.
I'm not sure if it's the same type of PVC as the bed rails on my truck, but my the plastic under the wipers on my mustang was faded quite bad and I gave 303 a shot, looked good, but faded quickly. I also tried Back to Black and ran into the same results as others posted with it turning white. I found a bottle of Mequires Gold Class Trim Detailer, and this stuff is fantastic and lasts through months of washes. It's in a small black plastic bottle and I will see if I can post a pic of it. I now applied it to all of the exterior plastic of the car and the truck with great results and a little goes a long way.
As other's suggest, I would also look at painting them, I think flat or satin black on the OP's truck would look great!
http://www.falcar.com/Cleaners/maguire/MEGUCLEA0022.jpg
I'm not sure if it's the same type of PVC as the bed rails on my truck, but my the plastic under the wipers on my mustang was faded quite bad and I gave 303 a shot, looked good, but faded quickly. I also tried Back to Black and ran into the same results as others posted with it turning white. I found a bottle of Mequires Gold Class Trim Detailer, and this stuff is fantastic and lasts through months of washes. It's in a small black plastic bottle and I will see if I can post a pic of it. I now applied it to all of the exterior plastic of the car and the truck with great results and a little goes a long way.
As other's suggest, I would also look at painting them, I think flat or satin black on the OP's truck would look great!
http://www.falcar.com/Cleaners/maguire/MEGUCLEA0022.jpg
Last edited by Blown F-150; Sep 25, 2009 at 01:04 AM. Reason: Found Link to Pic of Product

Should have done this a long time ago......

but I didn't remove the rails, just taped everything off, VERY easy with the big gaps, then sprayed 3 coats between 30 minute intervals....
.....(in the garage)I also used the "Black Satin"......AWESOME look, made the trailer hitch look new, also!

Thanks for the tips, guys!

Last edited by bfdtpkt; Oct 4, 2009 at 11:02 PM.



