I've got some stubborn brown patches on my fairly new Magnaflow SS tip, and I wanted to try maybe a 2-step wet sand process to polish the tip and remove these contaminants.

I tried 1000 grit on a out of sight spot and it immediately left a haze.

anyone know what to work with? Myabe one to get it started, and one to make sure there are NO scratches and just a finely polished finish left when done?

Thanks

 

I don't have any input to provide on sanding stainless -- I honestly think that it's probably a bad idea...

What have you tried to remove your problem areas; with the exception of papers?

 

I've tried Turtle Wax brand chrome polish, Nevr Dull wadding, and even NXT metal polish all with the use of the Powerball mini. It helped to clean it up, but it just simply did not have enough abrasiveness.

In the past I tried the crumpled foil and water bit, but it scratched it.

I know these brown patches can come off because I got one off with my fingernail.

 

Use metal polish available at any metal or machine shop and a rag. I got a nasty cleaner on a part on my bike and it etched the metal. I used this stuff and a rag and it did polish out. I can't find the tube so i can't give you the name. It ws the same stuff the squids use to polish the frames on motorcycles. Unless you get it done professionally, it will probably look like satin polished from now on.

KC-10 FE out...

 

The misconception is this -- wet sanding is a process that is used to 'even' the appearance of the paint. Additionally, it can smooth problem areas by providing more abrasion than a normal polish can provide. The difference between stainless and modern paint systems is, most likely, clear coat.

When you sand, you're abrading the clearcoat and not the substrate (if done correctly). By doing this, you can effectively smooth the paint down to a certain level and then, by using a compound or highly abrasive polish, begin to work out the scuff marks.

By abrading the stainless -- which is a much harder substrate -- you're going to have to find something that is equally agressive to remove the scuffs. In a machine shop or similar, you're going to see this done with a high speed buffing wheel and polishing media. Finding something along those lines from a hand abrasion standpoint is, I suspect, difficult. -- I don't know of a product.

What I do know is that a company named Heavy Metal Polish makes some very good stuff. What I might suggest is that you drop them an email and ask for a realistic assessment of what their stuff might be able to do for you. Currently, I keep the MEDIUM and LIGHT wadding on my shelf for my vehicles and also for client vehicles. It's pricey stuff but, no one ever said a good product was cheap.

Best of luck and I'd definitely be interested in hearing what others have used to successfully remove severe scuffing on very hard metals like stainless.

RP

 

mine are in pretty poor shape from the winter- ive gone and ordered + recieved my heavy metal medium and light polish- IF i can ever be graced with a two day dry period and can get the truck cleaned up, I'll post up my results
JJ

 

Are those brown contaminates stains or something physically on the tip... like tar or asphalt? I get flecks of that all the time with all the cold patch crap they use on the roads around here.

You may try something like a rag with laquer or paint thinner on it first before you go the sanding route. If that's what it is, there's no need to sand or polish on it.

 

You know, they may just be surface contaminents. They are brown in color, and very hard to remove...but I did get some off with my fingernail. I will try paint thinner and see how that does.

but needless, the metal does have some pitting and light scratches I want to remove as well.

Do you think I need to order both the GREEN and BLUe Heavy Metal polishes to polish my tip? Or will just the blue do the trick?

 

Actually, between the two, I'd go with just the GREEN (Medium). Stainless is very hard and thus, can stand up to the medium abrasive nature of the product... Fine is probably more suited for softer metals like Aluminum and Magnesium... or maintaining perfection on a hard metal like stainless.

RP

 

If I understand correctly some metals coming into contact with stainless can leave tiny rust spots, correct me if I'm wrong on this. Not sure if that's what you got or not. I just used Noxon 7 (smells like sounds) on my step bars yesterday. Had tiny rust spots from the winter. Put it on the bar, wrapped an old tshirt around it and polished for a for minutes. Then applied a thin coat and let it sit until it dried. Wipe it off and all the spots were gone. It all made what looked like scratches that couldn't be felt disapear as well. May be worth a shot, got it at Advance Auto or ones them places.

 

I personally wouldn't use sandpaper unless you have deep scratches, and then follow up with a good pro polish. I have a polisher with different wheels like spiral sewn and loose etc. Also look at compounds like emery, stainless and white rouge to finish it up. Eastwood or Caswell have kits both big and small, and the result is fantastic.

 

Forgot to add that sanding is done in stages, like 400 to 800 to 1000 to 1500, and do each wet. So I've been told. I did it to aluminum like ^ and used tripoli compound to polish, great results.

 

you need a hi-speed cloth buffing wheel and some polish
i took the wifes "chrome"(stainless) to the shop and used the pedstal wheel buffer

wow

...zap!