Just wondering...

Back and forth? or

Karate Kid wax on wax off? (i.e. circles for anyone who hasn't seen it )

 

If you must do it by hand, replicate the motions of an orbital waxer.

 

I apply the wax using small, circular motions, but remove the bulk of it by moving my towel back and forth over the panel in long, straight strokes.

 

Mike,

As long as the paint is clean, and you are applying thin, even coats (the real secret), I don't think it matters.

Try half your hood with one method, and half with the other and see which one you prefer. Again, make sure the coat is thin and even.

 

i understand the even part but why thin. besides drying time what is the benefit of thin. what bad can happen if it is put on too heavy

 

I use ddellwo's technique on my wife and it works every time!

 

On a serious note.., I apply the wax in small circles and remove in mostly straight strokes. It does seem to leave a circular pattern in the reflection. I guess a buffer would remove that. I feel that a hand buffed finish leaves more wax on the paint to protect it longer?

 

First, and most importantly, your paint can only hold so much wax or sealant at one application. You are simply wasting wax, as you will be wiping off all the excess when you remove the haze.

Secondly, applying too heavy a coat makes for difficult removal, and sometimes streaking/smearing.

Multiple "thin" coats is always better than one heavy coat. However, the trick is to get complete coverage with the thin coats. That is why you will often hear people say they put a second thin coat on to "insure" complete coverage.

 

boss 29
thanks, makes sense and you answered another question i had. i was contemplating putting a second coat on, possibly with a carnuba wax over the nxt but i didnt know if this would cause a problem. thanks

 

It won't cause any problems and will actually give your paint a bit more "depth". On my last detailing I put 2 coats of NXT along with 2 coats of #26. The results are excellent.

 

This may sound like a lot of work. But i use Meguiars cleaner wax and buff it off by hand in a small circular motion. this gets rid of all the contaminates that washing the truck leaves behind without damaging you clearcoat. then i apply a coat of Finnish 2000 and hand buff as well. And then i put on a second coat of Finnish 2000 and use a electric buffer and buff untill there arent any swirl marks left. Finnally i use Meguiars spray on bike detailer and tenderly hand buff to the ultimate shine. Keep using the bike detailer after every wash and you will mantain that "just waxed" look and protection. the bike detailer is rather expensive but it will last about six months if used properly.

 

Absolutely! Many folks top a synthetic wax (or other waxes) with a carnauba wax. The key is use a carnauba wax that does not have a lot of cleaners or solvents that can remove the previous layers.

As above, it's good to apply 2 "thin" coats of the synthetic to insure complete coverage, and then 2 "thin" coats of the carnauba to insure complete coverage of the carnauba. Again, waiting 24 hours, or at least overnight between coats is ideal. Applying additional coats too soon just re-liquefies, or interrupts the bonding process of the coat underneath.

 

Boss Have a question, I read some where that some carnauba waxes over a syn will cause swirl and haze up not allowing the two to bond to each other. Said that to only use one or the other type of wax.

Don't even remember where I read it but was wondering what your take on it was and if you ever herd of it.

 

what is a good carnuba wax that doesnt have a lot of cleaners and solvents. i have used meguiars in the past and have been happy with them.

 

MJN,

A lot of folks, including me, top a synthetic wax with a carnauba withoug any problems. Swirl marks, which are very light scratches are caused by improper washing/drying/polishing/waxing techniques or detailing tools (towels, applictors, mitts) that are dirty, or improperly cared for.

Hazing is often caused by applying a product too heavy, or applying a product over a moist/wet paint surface (water gets trapped between paint and wax).

Also, imcompatible products can also cause hazing, but this doesn't happen too often.

If one applies thin coats, and allows that all important dry/cure/bond/adhesion (depending on product) time between coats, one shouldn't have any problems.

Also, I like to think of it like thins... a carnauba doesn't really "bond" to the paint like most synthetics waxes do... carnauba kind of "sticks" to the paint, or just lays there. So, it is just kind of "sticking" to the synthetic product underneath. Adding the carnauba is more of a "beauty" thing, with a little added protection.

HTH