3M Paint Protection Film

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Old 04-21-2005, 07:12 AM
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Originally posted by ddellwo
I literally drove my wife's Escape from the dealer's lot to the place where I had my window tinting and paint protection film installed -- about 45 miles one way. I was absolutely convinced that I would end up behind a dumptruck that was spewing loose gravel before I could get the film installed!

Fortunately, I made it without a scratch!
Whew!

What kind of prepping must the paint go through before applying the 3M Film? Is it ok for it to have a coat of wax, etc? Does the body shop clean it up first?
 
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Old 04-21-2005, 08:44 AM
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I am also interested in this as I just had to have the front end of my wife's mustang repainted.
Does anyone have any closeups of it on a dark vehicle. THe mustang is black and I am kind of concerned on how it will show on it.

Thanks,

Gary
 
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Old 04-21-2005, 10:34 AM
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Originally posted by Ford Lariat
What kind of prepping must the paint go through before applying the 3M Film? Is it ok for it to have a coat of wax, etc? Does the body shop clean it up first?
All they did was wipe down the areas of the car where the film was applied with some of the "soap water" solution they used to install the product.

I did not wax the vehicle before bringing it in to the shop (it was brand new), but I wanted to wax it right afterwards. The installer told me to wait a couple of days before waxing, just to make sure I didn't tug one of the edges loose during the process.

However, the very next day I checked the application, saw that it looked tight, and went ahead and applied a coat of NXT. No problems at all, and now I don't even worry about waxing on or around the film!
 
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Old 04-21-2005, 09:18 PM
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Originally posted by ddellwo
All they did was wipe down the areas of the car where the film was applied with some of the "soap water" solution they used to install the product.

I did not wax the vehicle before bringing it in to the shop (it was brand new), but I wanted to wax it right afterwards. The installer told me to wait a couple of days before waxing, just to make sure I didn't tug one of the edges loose during the process.

However, the very next day I checked the application, saw that it looked tight, and went ahead and applied a coat of NXT. No problems at all, and now I don't even worry about waxing on or around the film!
Did they wipe dry the "soap water" solution used for installing the product? Or was it left on to adhere to the film?

I heard that waxing the film makes it better lasting?

My only real concern is to get all the swirls out of the paint before the film is applied. Swirls aren't gonna look good below the film (where the polisher can't reach). You know what I mean?
 
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Old 04-22-2005, 12:33 AM
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Originally posted by Ford Lariat
Did they wipe dry the "soap water" solution used for installing the product? Or was it left on to adhere to the film?

I heard that waxing the film makes it better lasting?

My only real concern is to get all the swirls out of the paint before the film is applied. Swirls aren't gonna look good below the film (where the polisher can't reach). You know what I mean?
Yeah -- if it's not a new vehicle, I would probably polish the area before the film was applied, since once its on, there's no feasible way of getting back under the film to polish. I'd refrain from waxing however -- just polish and then probably clean it well with a soap and water solution to remove any "waxy" or "oily" residue.

The installer I used wiped the soap and water solution off the paint first, and then re-applied it from a spray bottle so he could position the film. Then all he did was squeegee the excess water from the installation, and backed it into the sun for an hour or so to finish the initial "setting" of the product. The product went on very similarly to the old "water release" decals that used to come in car model kits.
 
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Old 04-22-2005, 07:12 AM
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Originally posted by ddellwo
Yeah -- if it's not a new vehicle, I would probably polish the area before the film was applied, since once its on, there's no feasible way of getting back under the film to polish. I'd refrain from waxing however -- just polish and then probably clean it well with a soap and water solution to remove any "waxy" or "oily" residue.

The installer I used wiped the soap and water solution off the paint first, and then re-applied it from a spray bottle so he could position the film. Then all he did was squeegee the excess water from the installation, and backed it into the sun for an hour or so to finish the initial "setting" of the product. The product went on very similarly to the old "water release" decals that used to come in car model kits.
Oh yeah, the ones that just slide off and stick!

Thanks for the info
 



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