Detailing 101 For The "Lazy" Girl In Me?

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Old 03-31-2005, 09:51 PM
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Question Detailing 101 For The "Lazy" Girl In Me?

I've got this new black FX4 and only want to spend a few hours per month on it as I have show dogs and travel quite a bit. I would classify myself as your "normal" wash it each week and wax it monthly (maybe every other month) type of person. Ijust want to keep the truck looking nice and protected. Thanks from a "lazy" girl.
 
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Old 03-31-2005, 10:59 PM
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Hey Tami!

Welcome to f150online.com! We're glad to have you aboard!

Like many folks, it sounds like you're looking for a big bang with as little effort as possible. That's not really a problem but, you may need to invest a bit more time into the first detail so that you're following months (or every other month) are easier.

I would start with a good two or three step process (because you own the dreaded color named black (no worries, I own it too)). Meguiar's, and several other brands, make a good process. Often times, you'll hear it called the Deep Crystal system. This system consists of a paint cleaner, a polish, and finally, a protection step (wax). Each of these steps isn't totally necessary but, on your first time, at a minimum, I'd do them all. In addition, I'd also recommend a clay process.

Black is a beast to maintain and is, by far and away, the hardest color to keep swirl-less. So, with that in mind, let's walk through this...

1. Wash with your favorite high-quality car wash solution. No dish washing detergents or other harsh items of that nature! Use a two-bucket technique (one for fresh water to clean your wash mitt/chenille sponge and one for car wash solution).

2. Dry utilizing very high pile 100% cotton towels or waffle weave microfiber. Use the blot method versus running the towel back and forth over the vehicle. Start top to bottom and avoid drying the ultra-dirty areas (wheel wells, fender flares, around the back tires, etc...) until last. This will help reduce the possibility of introducing scratches and swirls further.

3. Clay. If you're not familiar with this process, it's an ULTRA-SIMPLE one that is, in my opinion, a very critical step in a good detail. This will remove any stuck on contamination on your paint and get it ready to work on. Prep work is 99% of a good detail job.

4. Paint Cleaner. May or may not be necessary depending on the age of your truck. You said you're truck is 'new'? If so, probably not a necessary step. Don't skip the clay though...

5. Polish. Do you see any swirls or light scratches? If so, go with this step. Follow the directions explicitly and don't be afraid to go with multiple coats. This process will be the most time consuming unfortunately but, it's also the process that will get your vehicle looking it's best. Again, this is a prep step.

6. Wax. Apply a high-quality last step product like the #3 step from the Deep Crystal System or go with a high-quality synthetic like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax. Even better, go with Tech Wax, wait 24 hours, and then apply the #3 step over the top of it to REALLY obtain a deep, glossy shine. Either way, apply two coats. This will ensure uniform coverage and uniform protection.

After you've completed this long day, your future washes/waxes will be much easier. You may have to repeat this process a couple of times per year but, overall, you own the most difficult color to maintain. I feel for you because I'm in your boat. My 05' King Ranch is a BEAST to maintain and keep in show shine condition but, I enjoy doing it.

As you can see, prep work is, indeed, around 99% of this battle. Applying a two coats of wax at the end really is the easy part but, like I've mentioned, once you have it in really good shape, the maintenance part is very simple... very very simple. Further, you'll find that it's easier to apply that extra coat every 2 months or so because you have adequate protection already existing on the vehicle (BTW, you have a very good plan on every month or two!).

Feel free to ask any additional questions that you may have. Further, I can point you toward these products if you wish. Many of us here like www.premiumautocare.com and several other online supply houses that stock these items but, often times the products that I've mentioned can be found in your local 'mart' store (Target, WallyHell, etc..).


I hope that helps! Fire off another post or email me if you have questions!



(I just had to insert a picture of my black truck... hahaha!)

-RP-
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 08:39 AM
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Great post as usual, RP!
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 04:25 PM
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[i]
(I just had to insert a picture of my black truck... hahaha!)

-RP- [/B]

Great info.

I see this cleaning thing is gonna be a love/hate relationship.

05 black lariat
04 black mustang gt

hmmm study or devote hrs to cleaning/detailing...... maybe I can pawn the detailing off on the spouse??????
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 05:51 PM
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Originally posted by valley818
Great post as usual, RP!
Thanks valley...

I really left out a bunch of the very nit-picky particulars that are VERY important to maintaining a swirl-free finish though... I can try to go through a few of those in a future post... no time tonight.
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 06:10 PM
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Excellent post RP............... as always!
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 07:14 PM
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RockPick, I know this is a huge question, but maybe you could right a good how to, .pdf doc or something, that goes through the ins and outs of things you go through here, basically the how to for the everyday joe shmo. Sorta like how you went about the process to do your King Ranch, in depth. Maybe make it a sticky at the top. Only if you can find the time, but it would be awesome, and beneficial to everyone! Thanks!
 
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Old 04-01-2005, 11:45 PM
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Originally posted by roboots21
RockPick, I know this is a huge question...
That's the understatment of the day... lol. I'll try to get something together...
 
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Old 04-02-2005, 07:37 AM
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Hey RP,

Nice info there. I see you are a BIG fan of the clay process. I really don't know a whole lot about it (I know the basics from what I have read), but I was under the impression that it was for older paint. I see here you are recommending it right outta the box with a new truck. Is it just because of the color black, or do you recommend it for all colors? I have the beige BTW.

Thanks,
baroy

My Gallery
 
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Old 04-02-2005, 12:06 PM
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I've seen some new vehicles in worse shape than vehicles that have been on the road for years and years... In short, it's for all vehicles.

Your paint should feel like glass. If it doesn't, odds are that you have bonded contamination that should be removed as part of proper prepatory technique.

I clayed my truck as soon as it got home and the paint was absolutely FILTHY... my clay bar was brown when I was done (started white)!!

RP
 
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Old 04-03-2005, 06:33 PM
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Originally posted by RockPick
That's the understatment of the day... lol. I'll try to get something together...
How about we try THIS for starters.

Boss posted a pretty good link to autopia.org that has a fairly decent detailing guide. Neither Boss nor I are associated with autopia but, they are considered to be one of the (if not 'the') automotive detailing message boards on the web.

While I don't agree 110% with everything in their guide (and I think Boss will agree there too), it's not a bad outline for vehicle care in my opinion.

Feel free to ask additional questions...

RP
 
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Old 04-03-2005, 07:20 PM
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Originally posted by RockPick
I've seen some new vehicles in worse shape than vehicles that have been on the road for years and years... In short, it's for all vehicles.

Your paint should feel like glass. If it doesn't, odds are that you have bonded contamination that should be removed as part of proper prepatory technique.

I clayed my truck as soon as it got home and the paint was absolutely FILTHY... my clay bar was brown when I was done (started white)!!

RP
Would you mind giving a little more detail on the process of claying. I worry that rubbing that hard piece of clay over my black truck will induce scratches... I guess I thought that since my truck had been cared for from day one that this step was unnecessary, but your above statement shoots that theory. Please elaborate on your method...
 
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:00 PM
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Originally posted by KTNC
Would you mind giving a little more detail on the process of claying. I worry that rubbing that hard piece of clay over my black truck will induce scratches... I guess I thought that since my truck had been cared for from day one that this step was unnecessary, but your above statement shoots that theory. Please elaborate on your method...
Each and every finish is going to be different and, based on that, I'd encourage you to assess your finish prior to doing anything what so ever...

With that in mind, if your finish doesn't feel like glass after washing, odds are that you have some bonded contamination. Some stealerships actually have a decent detail guy in the back but, unfortunately, most don't. If they had a good one, your paint might feel and look nearly perfect when leaving the lot with less than 100 miles on the ticker but, the unfortunate fact is that isn't the case 90+ times out of 100...

My truck, for example, rolled off the lot with around 120 miles on the ticker (70 of them was me test driving over a week and a half ). Before I purchased, I had already gone over the paint with a fine tooth comb and realized that I'd definitely have to clay the paint prior to really applying a good protection layer (as it didn't need to be polished at that time). So, I brought it home, washed it very carefully and then went to clay. Mind you, my truck is black and, even knowing how clay works, I was like you and a bit intimidated by the potential for introducing problems. Feeling like I could handle just about anything that could potentially go wrong (even on black), I went for it making 100% sure that I used copius amounts of lubricant.

With a fresh 1/2 bar of Meguiar's Body Shop Professional Clay, I started on the roof and began to work down. I utilzed Meguiar's Final Inspection as my lubricant (which I almost always do) and continued to work downward. Naturally, I stayed away from the dirtiest areas of the truck (wells, fenders, etc) until nearly the very end. As I was progressing downward, I'd pay attention to what I was lifting off of my paint as well as doing a simple 'hand test' across the paint to see what I was accomplishing. (in short, feel it before and feel it after you clay -- note the difference).

Some areas on my truck required more attention than others (my hood was the worst!!) but, once all was said and done, I was holding a 1/2 bar of clay that was nearly totally brown and my paint was smooth as glass with absolutely NO introduction of scratches/swirls.

The key, in my opinion, is technique. You must wash your vehicle prior to claying. This wash is CRITICAL! Don't take any chances and flush your vehicle at the end of your wash with copius amounts of fresh, clean water. This will help to remove any 'left over' stuff that may be on your paint's surfaces.

Keep your clay bar clean and continually knead the clay. If you drop it, it becomes a landfill item. Trash it. No exceptions. One tiny grain of sand embedded in your clay from the ground or from a dirty body panel can be the recipe for DISASTER on your paint.

When your clay is starting to look bad, it's time to replace it. Use common sense here...

I hope that helps a bit... there is a lot of GREAT information here at f150online.com on clay but, if your search for information is still hungry, check out meguiarsonline.com and autopia.org... Both are great message boards!

RP
 
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:13 PM
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Great write-up RP!

Most people don't realize that claying your car is a very safe and easy process. (As long as you don't have sand in your clay, lol)

Just remember to use lots of lubricant and follow the instructions. Claying is one of my favorite steps in cleaning. It's amazing what you can pick up off your paint that you can't see with your eyes.

-slippy
 
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Old 04-04-2005, 04:51 PM
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More great info RP! Nice post!
 


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