this one is for RP and Boss! just picked up my NXT, did it reluctently though, but i just want that bright red to reach out and touch someone!! like...what did the 5 fingers say to the face?....WHAP! Bee-atch! anyway, i got your reply boss about the show car glaze, shake shake shake, and very thin thin thin!! now, with all that being on the finish, can i NXT over it? and when i do use the NXT, can i still use the other stuff? # 7, #26? even the final inspection? what's the real deal? that is why i am asking the 'Godfathers of Wax'!! thanks guys for your time! Willie

 

Hi Willie,

Yep, you can put the NXT over the #7............ and you should do it soon, as the #7 provides no protection, and you will loose some of the wetness/gloss of the #7 if you don't put a wax over it right away.

As for your other questions, here's what I would do........

Apply and remove a thin coat of #7

Thin coat of NXT...... let it sit overnight (or at least a few hours)

Light wipe down with Final Inspection (if there's a chance that the paint could have some dust/dirt on it from sitting)

Another thin coat of NXT...... let it sit overnight, or longer.

Thin coat of #26......... let it sit overnight, or longer

Another thin coat of #26!

--------------------------------------------------------

Now, you can apply and remove another coat of #7 anytime you want. However, it can be a little more finicky to apply and remove (streaking/smearing) when there is another wax/sealant product underneath (it can be done though).

I think your best bet is......... #7, NXT, NXT, #26, #26. Then, if you want to go back to #7, use a product like #9 to clean everthing up, and start the process over.

I'm sure RP will have suggestions.

Good luck, and have fun.

 

Boss hit it dead on the head as usual...

7/NXT/NXT/26/26...

You can maintain your finish with the final inspection as well after you've applied #26 at the end.

Wait to pass judgement... #26, I've found, looks better the second day it's on the paint. Also, note that NXT requires a cure time so, apply one coat and come back to it several hours later and apply the second...

RP

 

Hey guys, and thanks for the help. i remember you saying that the 26 looked better the next day RP. so far my process has been using the gold class shampoo and conditioner, then doing about a coat or two or #9, but that hasn't been getting out the spider web affect, then i'll hit it up with the #7, followed by the 26. then of course maintenence with final inspection. but i feel as if i still just can't get that explosive WOW from the bright red. i will try out the NXT prolly within the week. i've taken down the 'recipe for destruction' so i hope i can do it right. again thanks for all the help and it's good to see that your still sticking around boss!! have a good night gents , Willie

 

Surface prep, as you alluded, is the key.

You mentioned that you're not achieving the results that you really want with #9. Can you explain to us how you're using it and how you're working it?

If they are light spider/swirls, #9 really should do the trick. If not though, we may be able to jump up to something slightly more agressive to, hopefully, remove them.

While NXT has some light cleaning abilities, it's probably not going to remove the swirls like you want...

Let's make sure the surface prep is real good before you put all that time and product on your paint...

RP

 

alrighty, here goes. after i wash the truck and give her a good wipe down, linear wipes only i may add. when i do use the #9 i use it very lightly. i mean i use a thin coat and do mulitiple coats. it works for some of those dastardly spider webs but not all. plus they are so fine, they can only been seen when the sun hits the truck just right. i use the #9 with a cotton applicator, using circular motions, now i don't have swirls on the finish, just these sporadic web like marks. nothing can be felt with the bare hand. really smooth. once if put on like two coats of the 9, i go to 7, then 26. i remember talking to you in the past RP about the 9, i think that you had said work it till it dries, then reapply to pad and move on to another piece of truck. i have been doing that, and i do all this by hand! so i think that after awhile i get tired and forget just how much pressure i'm applying, speaking of that, recommend a good buffer? so that is how i use it, how was that? Willie

 

Willie,

You do not apply #9 like a wax or sealant. Work it kind of vigorously with your cotton of foam applicator until it is "just slightly damp", and then lightly wipe off the area with a clean MF. Do not "work" it until it is "dry"! Now, you can "work" it until it is slightly damp, and then let it "sit" until it is dry before you lightly wipe if off if you want.......... but I prefer to remove it while there is still some lubrication on the paint. If you work it until it is "dry", you can introduce spider web marks back into the paint. #9 is loaded with lubrication oils which are used to "buffer" the action of the abrasives in the product........... if you work to the point that the lubrication is gone, and there are any abrasives left on the surface (and there will be), you are rubbing abrasives around with no lubrication.......... that causes fine scratches/spider web marks.

Also, keep in mind that #9 is a very light abrasive product. The spider web marks may be a bit too much for #9 to handle. You have 3 options:

1. Try a slightly more abrasive product by hand...... like ScratchX, or Poorboys SSR2. Keep in mind that using a more abrasive product by hand is not easy, and requires considerable work if you are doing the whole vehicle.

2. Use a PC and a polishing pad with #9 to get the marks out. A PC will work the product better, and you can do multiple applications if you need to without wearing yourself out.

3. Use a PC with a polishing pad, and a more abrasive product like Meguiar's DACP, Speed Glaze, or Poorboy's SSR2.5, or one of several other good ones.

Hope this helps.

 

Hey Willie...

Looks like Boss was, yet again, up earlier than me and responded with his usual precision.

Definately DON'T work the #9 until it dries; work it until it has a very light wet cut. In short, almost dry. I do not recommend working ANY product until it's dry. The lubricating oils that are in the product, as Boss mentioned, are critical to the performance of the product and are essential to keep you from causing more harm than good. Like Boss, I prefer to wipe it off immediately after I'm done working a body section while it still has a slight bit of moisture to it.

As for buffers, you might check out the deal that is going on over at meguiarsonline.com. I shouldn't really talk much about it here but, I can tell you that it's for a Meguiar's PC, backing plate, and pad for MUCH less than you can get it anywhere else. Surf around, you'll see it there... or email me.

RP

 

Hey RP, where can I find that deal. The only one I saw was priced kind of high.

 

*hint* click the smiley

 

Thanks RP

 

Just a little FYI here.............. I highly recommend that anyone ordering that kit get one or two more of the polishing pads (W-8006), and one or two of the finishing pads (W-9006). You will need/want them (and maybe more), and it will save you from paying shipping again........... unless you can find the pads locally.

Just a thought!

 

Are there any other pads that you should get? I've never used a polisher before and can use any and all advice I can get.

 

The only other pad that Meguiar's has that you would want to use with the PC is the W-7006, which is the cutting pad. You would probably only need one of them if you wanted to get real aggressive with a product like DACP, or Poorboy's SSR2.5 or similar. I would stick with the polishing pad, and finishing pad until you get a feel for the machine, and the differences in products.

Of course, there are a wide-array of pads made for the PC by other manufacturers.

 

Boss-RP, again coined the Godfathers of Wax! i wrote all the info down and will get on it this weekend. i'm on miltary leave for the holidays so i got plenty of "do nothing" time on my hands!! all the best to you guys, and happy holidays if i do not write ya before hand!