Black Truck
#1
12-11-2004, 06:24 PM
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Black Truck
I have a new black 04 F-150 and it is a mother to keep clean. I must wash it 3 times a week. Anyway, I've noticed swirl marks all over when the sun hits the paint right. Is there a special product cleaner/wax for black paint? I only wash my truck by hand and only dry it with a soft cloth but recently have been taking it to a drive in hand wash place as they have the spotless rinse witch saves an hour of hand drying time. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
Thanks
Scott
#2
12-11-2004, 06:56 PM
Swirls are very small scratches in the clear coat. The only way to remove them is to remove the clear coat around where the swirls are located and thus, make it a smooth surface again.
There are oodles of great polishes out there that are specifically made for this very slight type of scratching. Swirls, cobwebbing, and other very small blemishes can be removed by utilizing a product like Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0 (AKA: #9). I utilize this product frequently to remove swirls on my vehicles (including a Black King Ranch).
Once you've removed the swirls, it's a bear to keep them from coming back. First and foremost, I'd recommend not going to your friendly hand wash establishment unless they're really near and dear to your heart. I've never seen one of these establishments that utilized a clean mitt, new water/shampoo, or a plush enough towel to do any of the detail work.
Personally, I find that washing my vehicle myself allows for only one person to screw it up; me. By me doing the work, I know that I can take necessary steps to prevent further swirling/scratching etc...
Here's a few hints:
1) Utilize the TWO BUCKET method when you wash your truck. One bucket is fresh, clean water. The second is where your car wash shampoo/water solution is located. Once you've washed your vehicle, rinse the high-quality 100% cotton chenille or 100% lambs wool mitt in the clean water and then go back to your solution. If waters in either of the two buckets appear dirty, it's time to clean out the bucket and replace your solution or clean water. I've changed water as many as 5-8 times per wash on a very dirty vehicle.
2) Designate specific sponges for use around wheel wells and on the lower body panels. Do NOT allow your sponges for the other portions of your vehicle to become in contact with the ones for the dirtiest sections of your vehicle. Further, I utilize dedicated sponges on my wheels.
3) Technique, technique, technique. Always start with the cleanest portions of your vehicle (typically on top) and work towards the bottom remembering to stay out of the heavily soiled areas with your 'good' mitt. Allow the sponge/mitt to do the work and apply little to no 'downward' pressure on your paint.
4) Products. Only utilize a high-quality car wash shampoo like Meguiar's Gold Class or similar. Lubrication is the key. You're using an abrasive cleaning technique (the mitt and car wash solution is removing the dirt) and thus, the better the lubrication, the less chance you have to scratch your vehicle.
5) No short cutting. Black is a monster to keep looking good; trust me, I know. Pay attention to each and every thing that you do with your mitts. Under no circumstances should they ever be on the ground or in an environment where they can become dusty/dirty. A small grain of sand and a little grit go a LONG way towards scratching the heck out of good looking paint; again, trust me, I know.
6) Drying technique. The best dry is no dry at all on black in my opinion. Anything that you move across the paint has a chance of introducing scratches into the paint and thus, that's why I've recently started utilizing my leaf blower. Yes, it looks absolutely crazy and I've been approached by neighbors suggesting psychiatric evaluation but, on the flip side, I don't have to deal with swirls and scratches nearly as often because I'm not utilizing an abrasive drying technique.
If you do dry with a towel, make sure it's a high quality waffle-weave microfiber towel like the ones shown here and here. DO NOT SKIMP on towels. I know they're pricey but, they'll save you a headache in the end if utilized correctly.
7) Storage of your materials. I've already touched on that a bit but, it's critical to keep your materials clean and dust free and in a good environment. Anything that touches your paint can scratch it.
There are OODLES upon OODLES of other things that you can do but, an ounce of prevention is worth ten tons of trying to fix it once it's done. It's a hassle sometimes but, we both own the best looking color vehicle when it's cleaned up... but, also the worst when it's dirty.
G'luck and feel free to ask other questions if you have them.
RP
There are oodles of great polishes out there that are specifically made for this very slight type of scratching. Swirls, cobwebbing, and other very small blemishes can be removed by utilizing a product like Meguiar's Swirl Remover 2.0 (AKA: #9). I utilize this product frequently to remove swirls on my vehicles (including a Black King Ranch).
Once you've removed the swirls, it's a bear to keep them from coming back. First and foremost, I'd recommend not going to your friendly hand wash establishment unless they're really near and dear to your heart. I've never seen one of these establishments that utilized a clean mitt, new water/shampoo, or a plush enough towel to do any of the detail work.
Personally, I find that washing my vehicle myself allows for only one person to screw it up; me. By me doing the work, I know that I can take necessary steps to prevent further swirling/scratching etc...
Here's a few hints:
1) Utilize the TWO BUCKET method when you wash your truck. One bucket is fresh, clean water. The second is where your car wash shampoo/water solution is located. Once you've washed your vehicle, rinse the high-quality 100% cotton chenille or 100% lambs wool mitt in the clean water and then go back to your solution. If waters in either of the two buckets appear dirty, it's time to clean out the bucket and replace your solution or clean water. I've changed water as many as 5-8 times per wash on a very dirty vehicle.
2) Designate specific sponges for use around wheel wells and on the lower body panels. Do NOT allow your sponges for the other portions of your vehicle to become in contact with the ones for the dirtiest sections of your vehicle. Further, I utilize dedicated sponges on my wheels.
3) Technique, technique, technique. Always start with the cleanest portions of your vehicle (typically on top) and work towards the bottom remembering to stay out of the heavily soiled areas with your 'good' mitt. Allow the sponge/mitt to do the work and apply little to no 'downward' pressure on your paint.
4) Products. Only utilize a high-quality car wash shampoo like Meguiar's Gold Class or similar. Lubrication is the key. You're using an abrasive cleaning technique (the mitt and car wash solution is removing the dirt) and thus, the better the lubrication, the less chance you have to scratch your vehicle.
5) No short cutting. Black is a monster to keep looking good; trust me, I know. Pay attention to each and every thing that you do with your mitts. Under no circumstances should they ever be on the ground or in an environment where they can become dusty/dirty. A small grain of sand and a little grit go a LONG way towards scratching the heck out of good looking paint; again, trust me, I know.
6) Drying technique. The best dry is no dry at all on black in my opinion. Anything that you move across the paint has a chance of introducing scratches into the paint and thus, that's why I've recently started utilizing my leaf blower. Yes, it looks absolutely crazy and I've been approached by neighbors suggesting psychiatric evaluation but, on the flip side, I don't have to deal with swirls and scratches nearly as often because I'm not utilizing an abrasive drying technique.
If you do dry with a towel, make sure it's a high quality waffle-weave microfiber towel like the ones shown here and here. DO NOT SKIMP on towels. I know they're pricey but, they'll save you a headache in the end if utilized correctly.
7) Storage of your materials. I've already touched on that a bit but, it's critical to keep your materials clean and dust free and in a good environment. Anything that touches your paint can scratch it.
There are OODLES upon OODLES of other things that you can do but, an ounce of prevention is worth ten tons of trying to fix it once it's done. It's a hassle sometimes but, we both own the best looking color vehicle when it's cleaned up... but, also the worst when it's dirty.
G'luck and feel free to ask other questions if you have them.
RP
#3
12-11-2004, 07:25 PM
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Thanks
Thanks for the detailed advise Brad. I guess there is no easy way to clean a black truck. I am extremely **** when it comes to the truck/house and time is always an issue. I guess it is back to the driveway wash. The damn water spots are so hard to get rid of and the Mr Clean system simply does not work well here in Florida.
Alright, Happy Holidays and thanks again
Scott
Alright, Happy Holidays and thanks again
Scott
#4
12-11-2004, 08:16 PM
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#5
12-11-2004, 09:59 PM
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What about the spot free rinse......Have you heard bad things about that......I also have a black supercrew, it's a month old and my first new vehicle. I have to tell you about my first month....I was at walmart getting groceries. I parked way in the back cause I didn't want a buggy or car door hitting it. So I was coming out of wallyworld walking towords my truck....it was right under the light and it looked like it was hitting my front fender flare weird.....the closer I got I relized my truck was hit....I don't know what the frick coulda happened, but they dented my front driver side fender scraped some paint off and gauged into my tire wall....So I had to get it fixed right away....no way I was going to have a brand new wrecked truck....So it cost me 600 dollars to get a new fender.... get it painted...labor.....new tire...balance. Then when I went pick it up I noticed the service guy screwed my seat material up so they had to order a new seat for me...... Anyway back to the detailing question....At the time I got my truck it was raining so I told them to wait on the detailing....So after all that other **** happened I brought it in today and I noticed this swirling ....it almost looks as if the guy who was wiping the AA on the tire wiped a little bit ...on there.....I'm not to concerned with it because there was when they were fixing the fender they were suppose to take some rail dust off of the hood.....turns out it was from acid rain so they had to repaint the hood while they were painting the fender and I have to bring it back for them to clear coat it again and buff out some dust specs..........Anyway seems like Rock is the detailing Yoda around these parts. Is it safe to buy the spot free rinse system. Or does it leave a film?
#6
12-12-2004, 01:16 PM
Yoda here (LOL!)
I don't have much experience with spot-free rinsing systems but kind of know how they work...
Most of the time, de-ionized water is utilized and thus, because the water is very pure, there aren't any spots left behind. I'm actually going to try a new technique today when it comes time for a final rinse on my truck... I bought 4 1-gallon jugs of de-ionized water. I'm going to pour these across the truck lastly and see what effect, if any, I can create.
I know it sounds silly but, any upper hand I can get will be worth it in my book... especially at 40 cents per gallon.
If the water is deionized, I don't for see it leaving a 'film'. I suppose that the water could be 'treated' to bring it to a spot-free classification by adding flocculants and other chemicals but, I don't think that any 'ma and pa' type of spot-free rinse car wash would put that type of cash into their operation.
RP
I don't have much experience with spot-free rinsing systems but kind of know how they work...
Most of the time, de-ionized water is utilized and thus, because the water is very pure, there aren't any spots left behind. I'm actually going to try a new technique today when it comes time for a final rinse on my truck... I bought 4 1-gallon jugs of de-ionized water. I'm going to pour these across the truck lastly and see what effect, if any, I can create.
I know it sounds silly but, any upper hand I can get will be worth it in my book... especially at 40 cents per gallon.
If the water is deionized, I don't for see it leaving a 'film'. I suppose that the water could be 'treated' to bring it to a spot-free classification by adding flocculants and other chemicals but, I don't think that any 'ma and pa' type of spot-free rinse car wash would put that type of cash into their operation.
RP
#7
12-12-2004, 03:10 PM
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12-12-2004, 06:02 PM
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#9
12-12-2004, 08:21 PM
Originally posted by bigsherm77
I've heard that using distilled water as a final rinse is a great way to avoid water spots. I tried it on my old black ranger and it seemed to work pretty well. I don't know if it was de-ionized or not.
I've heard that using distilled water as a final rinse is a great way to avoid water spots. I tried it on my old black ranger and it seemed to work pretty well. I don't know if it was de-ionized or not.
Distilled is what I utilized... sorry about that.
Anyway, I tried it out and there's just no good way to apply that I could find. I blew through 4 gallons in about 2 minutes and really didn't think I got the coverage that I should've. Maybe if I tried putting it in a spray bottle or similar. Would a garden sprayer work for something like this (the thing you can hook up to a hose to apply fertilizer)?
RP
#10
12-13-2004, 08:47 AM
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food for thought on hard water spots
Microfiber towel dry is the cheapest, blow dry: I would think that the hard water would still remain on the surface but evenly spread out unless its blown off the car.
A water conditioner would leave no hard water spots but on a water conditioner uses salt to condition the water, salt on your car would that cause rust??
Hard water is calcium & manganese and or other minerals
Top of The Line's web site carries a 100% spotless wash filter
Top of the line - Water filter
Other thing I was thinking if capturing water from your roof would work? it would be cheaper then the hard water filter, all you need would be piping, small tank, pump and a small filter.
Wash you car when its raining, no need to dry
Some of those wax Co's should invent something that water doesn't bead up on the surface that just runs right off (no hydrostatic), That you can apply over wax/sealer .
I do Detailing for a living and it doesn't take that long to dry, not with a large microfiber towel.
Re swirl marks
I noticed on reading on the above posts no one said nothing that I have read on paint protection like a wax/sealer. If multi-coats of wax/sealer is applied you would have some protection against making swirl marks if done right like what RP said (Oh great write up RP, you are my hero). I know that right after I polish a black car that it is vary prone to micro scratching in a vary small degree when rubbing across the surface like a wash mitt or chamois but when multi-coats of wax/sealer is applied when its not as hard to make swirl marks by using a common wash mitt or chamois.
Oh and hey, Meguiar's Tech NXT is good for hiding or not showing swirl marks on dark colored cars.
Well nope that I didn't insult no one, still trying to wake up, need more coffee
:santa:
Microfiber towel dry is the cheapest, blow dry: I would think that the hard water would still remain on the surface but evenly spread out unless its blown off the car.
A water conditioner would leave no hard water spots but on a water conditioner uses salt to condition the water, salt on your car would that cause rust??
Hard water is calcium & manganese and or other minerals
Top of The Line's web site carries a 100% spotless wash filter
Top of the line - Water filter
Other thing I was thinking if capturing water from your roof would work? it would be cheaper then the hard water filter, all you need would be piping, small tank, pump and a small filter.
Wash you car when its raining, no need to dry
Some of those wax Co's should invent something that water doesn't bead up on the surface that just runs right off (no hydrostatic), That you can apply over wax/sealer .
I do Detailing for a living and it doesn't take that long to dry, not with a large microfiber towel.
Re swirl marks
I noticed on reading on the above posts no one said nothing that I have read on paint protection like a wax/sealer. If multi-coats of wax/sealer is applied you would have some protection against making swirl marks if done right like what RP said (Oh great write up RP, you are my hero). I know that right after I polish a black car that it is vary prone to micro scratching in a vary small degree when rubbing across the surface like a wash mitt or chamois but when multi-coats of wax/sealer is applied when its not as hard to make swirl marks by using a common wash mitt or chamois.
Oh and hey, Meguiar's Tech NXT is good for hiding or not showing swirl marks on dark colored cars.
Well nope that I didn't insult no one, still trying to wake up, need more coffee
:santa: