RockPick I have a question for you.
RockPick I have a question for you.
I posted a thread about getting rid of swirls a few months ago. In your recomendation you said to use #9 and then #26. I finnally went to Autozone to purchase the products, however, non of the stores carried the #9. In other post I noticed that you recomended #9, #7, then #26. My question is I purchased ScratchX instead of the #9 do you think that the application of #7 will be ok. Also will luster of the finnish be any different. I'm going to try to whole clay bar and dawn soap thing tomarrow. How long should I expect to dedicate to this task. Thanks for all you help so far.
Since RP hasn't replied yet, I'll throw this out there-
Scratch X is a heavier compound, (heavier duty) made mainly for light scratches and oxidation, the #9 is a lighter compound made for swirls etc..
Scratch X is a heavier compound, (heavier duty) made mainly for light scratches and oxidation, the #9 is a lighter compound made for swirls etc..
I'll try to take a stab...
I'm not very familar with Scratch-X but, I believe Bloom is exactly correct. It's more of a 'compound' designed to deal with 'spots' not entire vehicles.
The #9 is probably the product that you'll need to find. Do you have a PepBoys? Any Paint Supply houses in town (automotive)? Go to www.meguiars.com and try a dealer search for Professional Products.
My suggestion on time is to do it when you can do the entire process, A to Z, without major lapses inbetween steps. I'd allot a full day for the process, just in case.
My suggestion for the process, sight unseen, is:
1. Wash (Gold Class shampoo or something like that would probably be better than Dawn...) Iknow I've posted about Dawn in the past but, after reading some stuff here lately, I think I'm going to stop suggesting that.
2. Dry. Doesn't have to be perfect...
3. Clay.
4. #9. You can apply by hand. You might need multiple applications to address the swirls. Follow the directions on the bottle VERY closely. This will help you in the long run. The key is to work the product until it is just slightly wet.... that works it into the voids of the paint in the best manner.
5. Remove #9 and examine. You might need another application... and maybe even another.
6. #26. Apply one coat one day, another the next.
7. Do a dance and take some pictures!
RP
I'm not very familar with Scratch-X but, I believe Bloom is exactly correct. It's more of a 'compound' designed to deal with 'spots' not entire vehicles.
The #9 is probably the product that you'll need to find. Do you have a PepBoys? Any Paint Supply houses in town (automotive)? Go to www.meguiars.com and try a dealer search for Professional Products.
My suggestion on time is to do it when you can do the entire process, A to Z, without major lapses inbetween steps. I'd allot a full day for the process, just in case.
My suggestion for the process, sight unseen, is:
1. Wash (Gold Class shampoo or something like that would probably be better than Dawn...) Iknow I've posted about Dawn in the past but, after reading some stuff here lately, I think I'm going to stop suggesting that.
2. Dry. Doesn't have to be perfect...
3. Clay.
4. #9. You can apply by hand. You might need multiple applications to address the swirls. Follow the directions on the bottle VERY closely. This will help you in the long run. The key is to work the product until it is just slightly wet.... that works it into the voids of the paint in the best manner.
5. Remove #9 and examine. You might need another application... and maybe even another.
6. #26. Apply one coat one day, another the next.
7. Do a dance and take some pictures!

RP
Not RP here, but I'll throw in my two cents anyway.
First, if you're going to try and do the whole vehicle by hand with the Scratch X, you're going to be an extremely tired camper. If you had a PC, you could probably get away with it........... but I wouldn't do it by hand. If you attempt to do it by hand, you might get "hazing", and will need to come back with another less abrasive product to remove the hazing anyhow.
If you can't find any #9, I would suggest getting some of the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish. It's one of their consumer line products, and is available almost everywhere. It's a pretty good product, and is very close (but not the same as) #9.
It sure will be alot easier to use than the Scratch X.
First, if you're going to try and do the whole vehicle by hand with the Scratch X, you're going to be an extremely tired camper. If you had a PC, you could probably get away with it........... but I wouldn't do it by hand. If you attempt to do it by hand, you might get "hazing", and will need to come back with another less abrasive product to remove the hazing anyhow.
If you can't find any #9, I would suggest getting some of the Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish. It's one of their consumer line products, and is available almost everywhere. It's a pretty good product, and is very close (but not the same as) #9.
It sure will be alot easier to use than the Scratch X.
hey, RP, what about meguire's cleaner wax? i have the same problem here, just those spider web scratches, should i use the cleaner wax, or go and get the number 9? Hmmmm! i also have in my arsenal the scratch x, and on that note, yes, it is only made for spot detailing, not the whole vehicle, although you could, but when i talked to a meguires rep over the phone, he said that it is only for sections at a time, like half a hood, half a door panel etc... but i am wondering about the cleaner wax over the number nine, i know that the #9 (got tired of typing out number!!), is a pro product, so RP and Boss, did i answer my own question there? bottom line, cleaner wax, or #9?
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Willie,
First, the #9 is more likely to remove the spider webs, than any cleaner wax. Most cleaner waxes are made to clean off any contaminates while apply a protective coating............... not to remove spider webs or swirls.
Personally, I would NOT apply a cleaner wax over the #9, as the cleaners would remove some of the gloss (oils) that the #9 has laid down. I would prefer to top the #9, with a glaze like #7, or #81, and then apply a coat of #26. However, you certainly "could" apply the cleaner wax over the #9 if you want.
Another good combo would be the #9 followed by NXT that RP has used. The NXT also had a tiny bit of cleaning ability, but not near as much as a cleaner wax.
Hope this helps.
First, the #9 is more likely to remove the spider webs, than any cleaner wax. Most cleaner waxes are made to clean off any contaminates while apply a protective coating............... not to remove spider webs or swirls.
Personally, I would NOT apply a cleaner wax over the #9, as the cleaners would remove some of the gloss (oils) that the #9 has laid down. I would prefer to top the #9, with a glaze like #7, or #81, and then apply a coat of #26. However, you certainly "could" apply the cleaner wax over the #9 if you want.
Another good combo would be the #9 followed by NXT that RP has used. The NXT also had a tiny bit of cleaning ability, but not near as much as a cleaner wax.
Hope this helps.
BOSS, right on, i did not mean to come across as putting cleaner over the #9, just which one was a better product. i intend to use the #9, followed by the show car glaze then the yellow wax, and then upkeep with final detail. looks like i'ma gonna by some good 'ol number 9!! thanks boss!! willie
Originally posted by Willie Dynomite
BOSS, right on, i did not mean to come across as putting cleaner over the #9, just which one was a better product. i intend to use the #9, followed by the show car glaze then the yellow wax, and then upkeep with final detail. looks like i'ma gonna by some good 'ol number 9!! thanks boss!! willie
BOSS, right on, i did not mean to come across as putting cleaner over the #9, just which one was a better product. i intend to use the #9, followed by the show car glaze then the yellow wax, and then upkeep with final detail. looks like i'ma gonna by some good 'ol number 9!! thanks boss!! willie
A cleaner over the top of the #9 will, most likely, remove the work that you set out to do when you put the #9 on in the first place in that it's designed to remove whatever is on top of the paint and the #9 will leave fillers and a certain degree of oils behind.... as that's how the product is designed to work.
RP


