How do you polish/wax the hard spots

Old Dec 27, 2002 | 09:49 PM
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pw1981's Avatar
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From: Florida
How do you polish/wax the hard spots

I have concerns about the area behind the bug shield. I want to make sure this area is not neglected, but can't see a way to get the buffer under there without removing it and doing it by hand won't get the same quality polish job.

Also, I need suggestions for polishing and cleaning near the F-150 badges.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 12:05 PM
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I always removed mine off of my 1998 Explorer XLT...

Like you, I wanted to make sure that the job was done right and that was the only way that I could justify that it was being done to my standards...

Good luck!

RP
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 02:18 PM
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For waxing I just go by hand. Plus by DA buffer can reach pretty far under there.

For major polishing, etc. then I'll remove it completely.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 10:41 PM
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Originally posted by RockPick
I always removed mine off of my 1998 Explorer XLT...
This was my initial thought (especially since I have NEVER seen my truck without it on there ), but I am concerned about wear on the screws. Will removal 3 or 4 times a year damage the screw holes or screws?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2002 | 11:07 PM
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From: Week-Philly, Weekend-Dirty Souf Jerz
when i had my stock hood with the HD bugdeflector i took it off a few times a year to wash and polish behind there really good. the screw holes were fine, but the cheap plastic screws and anchors took a beating. they were so cheap they stripped out easy. i was just about ready to get a new set when i got my ramair hood, so not more bugdeflector anyway
but even if you have to get new screws/anchors every year or so, its worth it cuz they are only plastic and pretty cheap
 
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Old Dec 29, 2002 | 01:34 AM
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I can't say I have ever seen plastic screws and anchors for sale anywhere.

Where would I get new ones to have on hand?
 
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Old Dec 29, 2002 | 02:30 AM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Any automotive repair catalog

I think I saw them in the Eastwood company catalog.

Other catalogs along the same line should have them as well, if you have a different one that you prefer.

If yours is the same as mine, it is the plastic insert, with the plastic screw, kind of like what holds the black plastic trim piece over the radiator.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2002 | 10:58 AM
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From: Week-Philly, Weekend-Dirty Souf Jerz
thats how mine was also. i'm sure though since the plastic pop inert that goes in 1st thats the screw's anchor holds up fine, you could get actual metal screws instead of the plastic ones and it would hold up better against removing it and putting it back on alot
 
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Old Dec 29, 2002 | 10:59 AM
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Like almost anything...this has been discussed here before.

Having said that, I spend about 20 min. masking off the areas I don't want to get wax on. This includes the badges, bedrails, hood cowl, rubber around the glass, bumper covers, etc.

Then I can just go crazy with the buffer knowing I got 99% coverage. There are a couple of areas that need to be done by hand so I remove the buffer bonnet and use it for those areas (under mirrors, inside and under door panels).

BTW: After removing my bugflector I discovered some minor wear of the paint on the grill surround so I never replaced it. Looks better IMO.

Later...XLT_D.

.
 

Last edited by XceLenT Driver; Dec 29, 2002 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Dec 31, 2002 | 01:51 PM
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I never had any problem removing mine and reinstalling it. One side of the deflector did have one screw that wouldn't ever 'tighten' due to a stripped out plastic insert piece. It wasn't much of a problem though although, it did wear a tiny tiny (and I mean tiny) spot on that side of the paint.

I didn't remove it everytime... it was typically about 6 times/year. It's not much of a hassle to remove...

RP
 
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