rhino vs. line x
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From: Chicago
RhinoVirginia/Dave,
In the interest of comparing apples to apples, can you direct us to an ASTM D-1308 sheet for Rhino?
I've seen sales brochures for LineX and Rhino; both pick and choose from a bunch of different tests--only the good, not the bad.
LineX can't stand up to anti-freeze, gasoline and brake fluid. Can you direct us to an independent source indicating Rhino fares any better?
Vader16: The polyurea compound breaks down when exposed to the chemicals in the table. Sooner rather than later, it eats through to your paint, festers and spreads under the LineX.
-Fatz
In the interest of comparing apples to apples, can you direct us to an ASTM D-1308 sheet for Rhino?
I've seen sales brochures for LineX and Rhino; both pick and choose from a bunch of different tests--only the good, not the bad.
LineX can't stand up to anti-freeze, gasoline and brake fluid. Can you direct us to an independent source indicating Rhino fares any better?
Vader16: The polyurea compound breaks down when exposed to the chemicals in the table. Sooner rather than later, it eats through to your paint, festers and spreads under the LineX.
-Fatz
Last edited by MnFatz; Apr 7, 2005 at 06:56 PM.
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Anyone see the Nissan Titan?
Comes stock with a spray-in....
"Spray-In Bed Liner
Resist rust. Resist road rattle. Resist the drop-in bedliner. Titan's first-in-class* factory-applied Spray-In Bedliner helps protect your bed with a non-skid surface and adheres directly to the bed to help prevent warping and rusting. Plus, unlike many aftermarket Spray-Ins, it's UV-resistant to help prevent chalking or fading." ...taken from their website.
curious as to if anyone would know what their product is made from...
interesting that a well established company is making the spray-in liner a stock feature.
Comes stock with a spray-in....
"Spray-In Bed Liner
Resist rust. Resist road rattle. Resist the drop-in bedliner. Titan's first-in-class* factory-applied Spray-In Bedliner helps protect your bed with a non-skid surface and adheres directly to the bed to help prevent warping and rusting. Plus, unlike many aftermarket Spray-Ins, it's UV-resistant to help prevent chalking or fading." ...taken from their website.
curious as to if anyone would know what their product is made from...
interesting that a well established company is making the spray-in liner a stock feature.
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From: Texas
MnFatz, what do you mean by "can't stand up to"?
Regarding Nissan's factory liner: Nissan lost their JD Powers rating on the Titan because of the bedliner. There are going to be some changes. That's all I can say right now. Wait for an announcement about May or June. Then, even something bigger is coming after that.
Regarding Nissan's factory liner: Nissan lost their JD Powers rating on the Titan because of the bedliner. There are going to be some changes. That's all I can say right now. Wait for an announcement about May or June. Then, even something bigger is coming after that.
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From: Chicago
Originally posted by TruckGasm
MnFatz, what do you mean by "can't stand up to"?
MnFatz, what do you mean by "can't stand up to"?
Originally posted by MnFatz
Originally posted by MnFatz
Vader16: The polyurea compound breaks down when exposed to the chemicals in the table. Sooner rather than later, it eats through to your paint, festers and spreads under the LineX.
Vader16: The polyurea compound breaks down when exposed to the chemicals in the table. Sooner rather than later, it eats through to your paint, festers and spreads under the LineX.
Caveat Emptor,
-Fatz
Last edited by MnFatz; Apr 7, 2005 at 11:19 PM.
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From: Texas
1. All tires are made of rubber, so they all are the same, right? They all have the same temp tolerance, hardness, etc., right?
2. Why do you keep saying LINE-X is made of polyurea? It is not 100% polyurea. The boiling point of water doesn't change when you put salt in it, right?
It's not that big of a deal, but the information you are posting regarding LINE-X is incorrect. For example, ethylene glycol (antifreeze) has absolutely NO effect on LINE-X.
2. Why do you keep saying LINE-X is made of polyurea? It is not 100% polyurea. The boiling point of water doesn't change when you put salt in it, right?
It's not that big of a deal, but the information you are posting regarding LINE-X is incorrect. For example, ethylene glycol (antifreeze) has absolutely NO effect on LINE-X.
Last edited by TruckGasm; Apr 8, 2005 at 10:33 AM.
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From: Ruckersville,VA
Originally posted by MnFatz
can you direct us to an ASTM D-1308 sheet for Rhino?
can you direct us to an ASTM D-1308 sheet for Rhino?
Rhino Tuff Stuff Specs
Dave Wiesenhofer
Rhino Linings of Ruckersville, VA
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From: Chicago
1. All tires are made of rubber, so they all are the same, right? They all have the same temp tolerance, hardness, etc., right?
2. Why do you keep saying LINE-X is made of polyurea? It is not 100% polyurea. The boiling point of water doesn't change when you put salt in it, right?
The information I posted is precisely correct. Please see the Antifreeze entry in the chart. It's the the 6th item in the left column.
I have nothing to do with LineX, Rhino, BedRug, or any drop-in manufacturer. I'm just making sure people understand what they're actually doing to their truck when they have these things sprayed in their truck.
Dave: The information in the .PDF picks and chooses from different tests like the LineX information does. In the interest of fairness, do you have the results of a D-1308? I guarantee you it exists somewhere, but I haven't been able to find it.
Caveat Emptor,
-Fatz
Originally posted by MNFatz
These are the traits of the polyurea elastomer. These same basic traits persist in whatever compound you put together; hence the corrosive laden sponge I spoke of in an earlier post.
These are the traits of the polyurea elastomer. These same basic traits persist in whatever compound you put together; hence the corrosive laden sponge I spoke of in an earlier post.
Originally posted by MNFatz
These are the traits of the polyurea elastomer. These same basic traits persist in whatever compound you put together; hence the corrosive laden sponge I spoke of in an earlier post.
These are the traits of the polyurea elastomer. These same basic traits persist in whatever compound you put together; hence the corrosive laden sponge I spoke of in an earlier post.
Originally posted by TruckGasm
It's not that big of a deal, but the information you are posting regarding LINE-X is incorrect. For example, ethylene glycol (antifreeze) has absolutely NO effect on LINE-X.
It's not that big of a deal, but the information you are posting regarding LINE-X is incorrect. For example, ethylene glycol (antifreeze) has absolutely NO effect on LINE-X.
I have nothing to do with LineX, Rhino, BedRug, or any drop-in manufacturer. I'm just making sure people understand what they're actually doing to their truck when they have these things sprayed in their truck.
Dave: The information in the .PDF picks and chooses from different tests like the LineX information does. In the interest of fairness, do you have the results of a D-1308? I guarantee you it exists somewhere, but I haven't been able to find it.
Caveat Emptor,
-Fatz
Last edited by MnFatz; Apr 9, 2005 at 09:17 AM.
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hey everyone,
went to carmax yesterday. was looking at trucks with a friend and saw a couple preowned trucks with spray ins....
looked like absolute crap! one was completely chalky and the job itself was done half-assed....the product was dripping in areas and all bolts were sprayed over. the other truck i saw looked like cottage cheese was embedded in the product. neither job was labeled with any brand name in the bed. moral of the story...
if you're even considering a spray-in...do the research...
find people with spray-ins and see how long they've had theirs, what brand it is, what exact dealer they went to, and look to see firsthand what it looks like over time. secondly, make sure to see the work of the actual dealer you would be having the service done at. the bed of your truck can be ruined by even a great product if it is applied with someone with limited experience. no dealer is going to tell you that they wont do a fanstastic job...so make sure to see their work for yourself prior to making a final decision.
went to carmax yesterday. was looking at trucks with a friend and saw a couple preowned trucks with spray ins....
looked like absolute crap! one was completely chalky and the job itself was done half-assed....the product was dripping in areas and all bolts were sprayed over. the other truck i saw looked like cottage cheese was embedded in the product. neither job was labeled with any brand name in the bed. moral of the story...
if you're even considering a spray-in...do the research...
find people with spray-ins and see how long they've had theirs, what brand it is, what exact dealer they went to, and look to see firsthand what it looks like over time. secondly, make sure to see the work of the actual dealer you would be having the service done at. the bed of your truck can be ruined by even a great product if it is applied with someone with limited experience. no dealer is going to tell you that they wont do a fanstastic job...so make sure to see their work for yourself prior to making a final decision.
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From: Texas
Drips and cottage cheese are typical of the cold/low pressure application systems.
Clarification regarding Rhino's "cold/low pressure" system: The resin and isocyanate are not heated when sprayed, they are at room temperature. The heat RhinoVirginia is talking about occurs after the liner is sprayed and is from the exothermic chemical reaction between the resin and isocyanate. Specifically, when the molecules combine, the electrons move from a higher shell to a lower shell, thus giving off heat. Very common. I don't know pressure Rhino is sprayed at, but it's not 1500 psi. Rhino takes longer to gel/dry here in Texas. The gel/dry time is greatly affected by humidity. We get a LOT of moisture from the Gulf of Mexico. 30 to 45 sec to gel/45 min dry time is my understanding.
LINE-X is heated via a heated spray hose to about 120 degrees and is sprayed at about 1500 psi. It drys in 3 to 5 seconds. If it's real humid out, it still drys in 3 to 5 seconds but remains a little sticky for about a minute or so.
Clarification regarding Rhino's "cold/low pressure" system: The resin and isocyanate are not heated when sprayed, they are at room temperature. The heat RhinoVirginia is talking about occurs after the liner is sprayed and is from the exothermic chemical reaction between the resin and isocyanate. Specifically, when the molecules combine, the electrons move from a higher shell to a lower shell, thus giving off heat. Very common. I don't know pressure Rhino is sprayed at, but it's not 1500 psi. Rhino takes longer to gel/dry here in Texas. The gel/dry time is greatly affected by humidity. We get a LOT of moisture from the Gulf of Mexico. 30 to 45 sec to gel/45 min dry time is my understanding.
LINE-X is heated via a heated spray hose to about 120 degrees and is sprayed at about 1500 psi. It drys in 3 to 5 seconds. If it's real humid out, it still drys in 3 to 5 seconds but remains a little sticky for about a minute or so.
Last edited by TruckGasm; Apr 11, 2005 at 05:40 PM.
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From: Spring City
bedliners
Junk the rhino and line x liners. I have a Full Metal Jacket spray on bedliner way better then any line x or rhino and its cheaper. Will outlast and outperform both of them. FMJ is a full 100% polyurea, more room for elongation, no cracking no fading issues. Lifetime warranty also I already know what u guys are thinking yeah right why havent we heard of this FMJ its because most not all but most of the applicators applying FMJ liners are Industrial applicators and dont do many bedliners a few here and there. They advertise a little but not like rhino or line x and they dont need to make all kinds of claims about strength. The company that makes the FMJ is Specialty Products INC. they target mostly industrial applications they have special formulas for that too they just dont use same formula for bedliners as other companies do. So thats why i researched and went with a FMJ. FMJ specs check out better then others too.
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From: Texas
My opinion:
FMJ uses aliphatic polyurea, that's good. But, the better bedliners on the market are composed of a mix of polyurethane and polyurea. Both give the bedliner desireable properties. Such as polyurea raises the temp tolerance and tear strength, but polyurethane has more than twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurethanes can be formulated with higher elongation in a lower bodulus than polyureas. No flames, research the chemistry as I did.
FMJ uses aliphatic polyurea, that's good. But, the better bedliners on the market are composed of a mix of polyurethane and polyurea. Both give the bedliner desireable properties. Such as polyurea raises the temp tolerance and tear strength, but polyurethane has more than twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurethanes can be formulated with higher elongation in a lower bodulus than polyureas. No flames, research the chemistry as I did.
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From: Chicago
Originally posted by TruckGasm
My opinion:
FMJ uses aliphatic polyurea, that's good. But, the better bedliners on the market are composed of a mix of polyurethane and polyurea. Both give the bedliner desireable properties. Such as polyurea raises the temp tolerance and tear strength, but polyurethane has more than twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurethanes can be formulated with higher elongation in a lower bodulus than polyureas. No flames, research the chemistry as I did.
My opinion:
FMJ uses aliphatic polyurea, that's good. But, the better bedliners on the market are composed of a mix of polyurethane and polyurea. Both give the bedliner desireable properties. Such as polyurea raises the temp tolerance and tear strength, but polyurethane has more than twice the abrasion resistance of polyurea. Polyurethanes can be formulated with higher elongation in a lower bodulus than polyureas. No flames, research the chemistry as I did.
Chemistry research <> reading a linex sales brochure. Scroll up to see the chemical compatibility chart.
I've sat here for quite a few minutes, and typed this next sentence a few different ways to try and make it more polite but I've run out of ideas: I'm sorry, but you don't have the slightest idea what you're talking about.
Caveat Emptor,
-Fatz
Last edited by MnFatz; Apr 18, 2005 at 10:48 PM.
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MnFatz,
what would you suggest to put in the bed rather than a spray-in then? I plan to get into fixing up bikes, etc and will have them in my bed in the future, so the chances of some type of automotive fluid not drippin onto my bed in this scenario would seem highly unlikely, especially if I plan on doing it for years. thanks for your input.
what would you suggest to put in the bed rather than a spray-in then? I plan to get into fixing up bikes, etc and will have them in my bed in the future, so the chances of some type of automotive fluid not drippin onto my bed in this scenario would seem highly unlikely, especially if I plan on doing it for years. thanks for your input.
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From: Spring City
bedliners
I dont know what im talking about whatever dude. #1 I never said anything about spary ins being resistant to chemicals. All I wanted to do was state my opinion on which bedliner was better. Also If a bedliner was going to be sprayed for a truck with major threat of more then normal chemicals they make a hydrocarbon resistant polyurea especially for chemical exsposure. So to the guy who asked what to do u can still get a sprayon bedliner but u may want to spend a little extra for a hydrocarbon resistant top coat. Ohh yeah also a aromatic base and aliphatic top coat bedliner would be a very nice quality bedliner for normal use then if in doubt use a chemical resistant top coat over top of the aliphatic.