TruckGasm - would you send me the .pdf also? Thanks.

 

I called the dealer and of course the only thing that will really work, acetone, would tear up the Line-X. He suggested a pressure washer mixed with a soap. I'm just waiting for warmer weather to drag the PW out. Worst case scendario I'll acetone it then take it back in for a warranty claim I guess.

It really isn't too noticeable but I know it is there and I hate it.

Jim

 

TruckGasm - I suppose it would help if I included my e-mail...

gar767@bellsouth.net

 

File emailed, thanks.

Do not put acetone on the liner. Try using engine degreaser.

 

I'll give that a shot, thanks.

 

 

"These same basic traits persist in whatever compound you put together; hence the corrosive laden sponge"

What are you saying it actually soaks up corrosives? What effect would this have?

If you are saying it would only damage the line-x than with a lifetime warranty I don't see the problem.

Could you clarify the quote?

Thanks

Jim

 

Go Line-X....great stuff

 

moral of the story...don't be spilling crap in your bed.

really though...

you can bust out all the spec charts you want...but when it comes down to it, do you really want any of that crap on any part of your truck whether it's paint or a bed liner of some sort?

personally if I knew I'd be putting crap in the bed of my truck that contained any sort of chemicals I'd go out of my way to be sure that nothing would spill onto any part of the vehicle...putting down a tarp in the bed, etc. I wouldn't feel comfortable having any of the chemicals on that spec sheet getting on the body of my truck, so the bed liner, regardless of what it was made of, wouldn't be an exception. after all, a good bed liner in my opinion is something that is strong and durable, something to throw crap in and not have to worry about scratching or denting anything...not a chemical containment unit.

somehow the vast majority of truck owners that I have encountered with spray in bed liners have been very pleased with their applications....so I'm thinking that these people are somehow managing to ward off the chemical gods from their vehicles. so as long as you do not anger the chemical gods, I think you should be a-okay with a spray-in liner.

 

I was always told sex, politics and religion were the taboo topics.
Nope it's bedliners, motors and opinions on personal touches.

But back to the original point. Had Line-X in my 97' (that one went bye-bye recently due to an accident with a person not from this country with no insurance, I had liability on it...uggh) and had a Rhino put in my father's 01' screw for his birthday. Two vastly different problems that have angered me to the point that I allow nothing in my 00' bed.

The Line-X was quite good until I went to store to get a few things and the bleach popped on the bed hooks and soaked the liner to where it became gummy and essentially useless in a two square foot area (but the local dealer gave me a hook up and fixed what was technically my fault for twenty-five bucks if I waited for someone else to come in with a basic black liner).
And a Rhino liner that looked great untill on a 104+ degree day I threw a shovel in the bed and it TORE APART (covered as well but only because it was only a couple of years old).

My old Duraliner took more abuse than that (drop in hard liner)\

So now, because it's a bed (I know I'm gonna catch hell from somebody for saying this) I spend sixteen dollars every six months (.96 cents a can) and mask off the truck and sand and repaint the inside of the bed. Gloss black Krylon and Clear coat. Eight cans coats the entire floor and sides. It matches the color of the exterior (to the naked eye) and I just don't care anymore after flushing seven hundred dollars on bedliners that are a good product but unnecessary.

I hope that helps your decision a little. Just wanted you to have my experiences to draw upon. Hopefully if you decide to do the spray in, you can at least remember to not put the bleach in the bed and not to throw any metal object on the bed on a hot day.

Good luck though

 

"So now, because it's a bed (I know I'm gonna catch hell from somebody for saying this) I spend sixteen dollars every six months (.96 cents a can) and mask off the truck and sand and repaint the inside of the bed. Gloss black Krylon and Clear coat. Eight cans coats the entire floor and sides. It matches the color of the exterior (to the naked eye) and I just don't care anymore after flushing seven hundred dollars on bedliners that are a good product but unnecessary."

okay..I'm not an auto body expert...and it may very well show after I ask this question....but if you're constantly sanding down your finish every few months, wont that wear down the thickness of the metal in your bed?

about the bleach issue you had with the bedliner...
I'm assuming if you had no bed liner at all, the bleach would still not react well with just paint either ... care to volunteer your truck for the results?

perhaps a good idea would be if someone could post a spec chart for standard body paint as well... like I said earlier, I wasn't expecting a liner to be a chemical containment unit, but lately the topics have centered around this issue...so it may be interesting to see what paint alone could hold up to....may put some perspective as to what we should be expecting from a bedliner.

 

Perhaps he's just sanding the existing paint so the new paint will adhere to it better.


As for Rhino vs. Line-X...

From what I've read here, Line-X gets better feedback than Rhino for various reasons, mostly the fade issue, it seems.

I have one uncle who swears by Line-X, and another who swears by Rhino.

I have a Rhino bedliner, if for no other reason than my dealer installed it, at my request, for what I felt was a reasonable cost. I knew about the fade issue as described here so often, but couldn't really see anything beyond that that would make me NOT accept it for the convenience (dealer install) and price and instead hunt down a Line-X.

As for the fade, I planned on a Retrax or similar roll-back cover anyway, so maybe it won't fade, or if it does, it'll be adequately covered.

As far as I'm concerned, the spray-in bedliner is more a functional item than an appearance item, and as such, I'm very satisfied with the finish and "stickiness" of the Rhino material. It doesn't peel like an eraser by any means, and stuff doesn't slide on it at all.

I can understand how appearance can be important though, and if it were to me, I would've given the Line-X further consideration.

 

I scuff the paint with a 200 grit with a block and then 400 by hand on the inside corners that I can't reach with the block so the paint overlays on existing paint (the only annoying part is completely cleaning the bed the rest is actually quite fun). I started doing this barely a year and a half ago and everytime I start to worry about thickness building up, somebody has to move and it scratches the hell out of that thing (an oak desk or armoire will take down anything).

I agree that even without the bedliner bleach is a bad thing but it just agitated me that I had to get something fixed where as had I left good enough alone I could have spent two minutes with the power washer and cleaned that sucker myself. I was afraid of what that psi would do to a weakened product.

I'll be doing this again in the coming weeks as the weather has moved from soggy to spring. If you guys would like, post me your e-mails (unless their in your profiles already, it's late and I'm lazy) and I'll send you some pics when I get it done.

Oh and before I forget...Anybody considering doing this, invest the extra two dollars and get the trigger unit for spray cans. Trust me on this, your hands will thank you for it.

 

ok, my input. I was a sales manager for a truck body company, for those who don't know we manufactured and sold service bodies(utility beds) where I used Rhino, Line-x, and Arma Coatings.

Rhino was the first company to come with the spray on bedliner thats why they have the most known name. Rhino is a low pressure cold application and if they tell you differenty they are not spraying rhino, this is why it takes so long to dry. It is sprayed basically out of a hopper gun that is why they can add paint. They are quickly being turned by dealers in this area because the do not hold up. The information is correct about the chemicals they are made of and the big this is the elasticity. Rhino will eventually dry very hard due to mother nature and when this happens it loses elasticity and will start to seperate from itself causing cracking and blistering due to seperation.

Line-x is the fastest growing spray on bedliner company because they have come up with a product that is a blend of the two chemicals polyurethane and polyurea this a high pressure heated application. The pressure usually between 1500-2500psi and when it is curing it gets in the neighborhood of 200-250 degrees. Its elasticity is great up to 300 percent which it will never lose. Most dealers don't add color because they order chemical in 55gal drums which are connected directly to a machine that pumps the chemical through roughly 65 ft of hose before it comes out of a gun where the two chemicals mix at the tip. It is a more even texture than Rhino because it drys so fast anywhere from 3-5 seconds.

Arma and line-x are almost the same as far as product is concerned.

Prep is the big thing. Arma removes anything that is removable and then sprays. Line-x and Arma use a wire tape which is why the lines are so clean when finished. At the end of the job for an additional charge the can "topcoat" the coating to prevent it from fading and this can be done in a couple more years if it were to fade later down the road.

I have investigated all of these companies extensively and I would use Line-x or Arma. I like to deal with people that are nice, respectful, take pride in what they do, and treat my truck as if it was a show piece.

Sorry so long but alot to go over.

 

Hey again,

I was just reading bigbobf150's post and wanted to clarify some things. I have been the manager of a Rhino dealership for over 2 years and I see some glaring mistatements in this post. I wont address the facts about the other companies as I dont apply their product, but Rhino I have sprayed every day for 2 years now.

Rhino is correctly termed a "low-pressure-low heat" application but several times on this site people have said it takes a "long time to dry" or "takes over a minute to gel". First of all, Rhino is not "cold", our material is maintained at 85 degrees at all times. As a result, in my experience, even in higher humidity situations, Rhino begins to gel to a solid in 10-15 seconds. As progressive coats are applied and the sub coats being sprayed to are at a higher temperature, this figure shortens to under 10 seconds. Not a minute by any means. As Rhino is curing, it's temperature is also well over 200 degrees, it does not cure "cold". Rhino is a lower temperature than some systems, but the myth of it being "cold" is not true.

2nd, Rhino is not "basicly sprayed out of a hopper gun". We receive our chemicals in 55 gallons drums just like many other 2-part systems and the materials are fed to the gun in separate hoses until it is mixed in a static mixer tube at the end of the gun. Perhaps you have confused Rhino with Speedliner, who if you look at their dealership package...provides you with a hopper.

3rd, as for the false statement that Rhino uses a hopper so we can therefore add paint....our Resin is actually pumped into a mixing tank(that allows coloring and mixing, because Resin will separate into it's components without mixing) that allows us to add specially formulated pigments to change the color from a neutral to the desired liner color. Not a paint mixture. It is then pumped at a specific ratio along with the Iso(catalyst) thru two separate hoses to the gun.

4th, about Rhino eventually drying hard due to mother nature and starting to crack and blister due to seperation. Rhino Elongation properties according to Rhino Linings spec sheet are rated to 325-375%. This is more than the elongation for Line-X that bigbobf150 listed in his post. The only situation where a Rhino would crack or separate is if it was applied inproperly, just any other brand of spray-in.

5th, Rhino also uses wire and fiber tape to create "clean lines" and we can also provide topcoat finishes to prevent fading. We will remove any hardware in the bed that the customer wishes to remain unsprayed. Every customer at our dealership is asked prior to installation what they want removed.

Finally, I also like to deal with people who are respectful, nice and take pride in their work. Every truck we work on is treated with care as if it were my own brand new truck. Sadly, in any nationwide company, you can find people who dont live up to those qualities. But a blanket statement seems unfair and inaccurate. I do not mean for this post to seem combative or agressive, but I feel that I am in a much better position to provide accurate information about the product I apply every day.

No matter which company you choose, look at the work of the dealer you plan to visit.

Dave Wiesenhofer
Rhino Linings of Ruckersville, VA