I just stumbled onto this thread via the search function.

I have a '98 Supercab XLT, and the passenger window has ceased to function. It just quit one day when I tried to lower it. A few days later, it started working again. A few weeks after that, it again stopped working "permanently".

Fortunately it failed in the up position. I've noticed the dome light dim slightly when I push the control button, so I'm assuming the motor is drawing current and is simply stuck or stalled.

I'm going to try thumping the motor per the above posts and hope I get lucky.

But I'm puzzled by one thing. Why drill such large holes to access the motor screws? It looks like 3/8" or 1/2" would be more than adequate. Am I missing something?

 

drill whatever size is necessary for you to get a socket in there or whatever you are using

 

Deed, think I will

 

drilled the holes and ordered a replacement cardone motor. removed the old motor, it had very coarse threads on the attaching bolts, the cardone motor had machined metal holes appearing to require a machine thread instead of the ford used coarse threads, anyone else have this problem and the thread size appears close to 1/4/20.

 

i have the regulator out and removed the motor what is the trick of getting the motor back on the spring loaded regulator?

 

I have a question for anyone who has tried removing the window motor by drilling out of the three dimples. I've read how to remove the "Door window glass regulator" in the Haynes Repair Manual and they caution about the regulator arms are under extreme pressure and to insert a bolt and nut through holes in the backing plate and sector gear to lock team together.

My question is do you have to worry about this if you drill out the dimples and just remove the motor?

I have a 2002 extended cab 5.4L.
Any help would be great.
Thanks

 

I did not do that on dad's 2001, it could be we just got lucky, or it could be it is not needed. Don't know if any of the others here have had problems.

Dad's was removed 3 times. 1 by me, another 30 days later he took it out and hit it again, and then when he got the new motor.

 

I just replaced the driver's side window motor on my 1999 SuperCab XLT using the steps listed here and in several other threads. The two dimples were clearly marked, drilled them out using a 1/2" bit and could easily access the 8mm bolts. The third hole was a guess, based on pictures or drawings submitted in other posts, so I had to enlarge the hole with a Dremel once I could see the bolt head. I had previously tried the "hitting the motor" approach, using a hammer while the motor was still installed in the door. This worked long enough to get the window closed, until I had time to get the motor out. Finally pulled the assembly out, removed the motor from the gear housing and looked inside. The large white plastic gear inside was missing about 1" of teeth, so off to NAPA for a new motor. $87 and a hour later my window was working fine. The NAPA motor uses self-threading plastic inserts for the bolt holes, which seemed a little cheap to me. But they tightened up just fine.

 

Holes drilled :


2 pictures of power window motor :

 

Just replaced mine on my '05 SCREW. Intimidated at first but after loosening the window clamps and the 5 support blots things just kind of flowed. This really is an easy installation. Thanks for the awesome directions and the time it took to post.

 

A friend of mine just purchased two of these kits for his Ford Bronco.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...405-_-10720525

I believe Autozone and O'Reiley's also carries this kit.

 

Well, I took care of it today - thanks for the pics & posts - makes it alot easier. My Chilton's manual is ok- but not as good as some of the info here. SScully's pics defined behind the door panel to a T.

Got my replacement motor from Ford - after I get my $30.00 core charge back, it will be $188.00

My experience with this repair:

Door trim, switch trim plate, door handle trim, and door panel are all easy off, and easy back on.

Use SScullys pics as a guide - drill the 3/4" holes dimples out - leave the rivets unless you think you relly need to remove the motor mount too.

Old motor comes out easy enough - new motor goes in with some moderate effort. Make sure you tape your glass to the door frame if it's up.

A magnet on a telescoping handle come in handy to collect metal hole cut out if it falls out of the hole saw - you don't want door rattles . . .

If you don't want to disconnect your battery, you can pull your interior dome fuse; #14 on the cab fuse box - make sure you put it back in, because it also controls the relay for the windows.

Start to finish it took me two hours - and I get real detailed and take my time.

Thanks folks - you made my job easier

John

 

[QUOTE=Chiller;4268968]2001 F150 Supercrew.

I recently removed my driver’s side motor because the window wouldn't go down. I first checked for power at the switch and then again at the motor terminal. Both had power so I assumed a bad motor. Well I removed it, banged it against my tire a few times and checked it again and it worked. Not sure how long it will last, but I can replace it with a new one in a matter of minutes now.

Here's some pics of the holes I drilled to gain access to the mounting bolts. I used a 7/8" hole saw...


Here's some pics of the motor itself...

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Where are the pictures? I don't see any link or icon to the pics.

 

My 97 model lost its first window motor today. That's pretty good considering it is a 96 1/2 model with 217,000 miles. I know the odometer quit at one time but is working again now, so I'm really not sure how many miles are on it. When I quit driving it, it then survived two teenage boys.

I'm going to do a complete restore when it qualifies for antique tags in 2017. Right now it sits around allot just waiting for me to fix the next item that don't work. I drive it at least once a month but it seems something else is broken every time I drive it. Auto's just don't like sitting around, they need to be driven.

I drilled the 7/8 inch holes with a 3/8 shank demming bit and filed off the flashing. I couldn't find a holesaw that small.
Of course the motor wroked after I took it out but I'm going back with a new one because I don't want to take it apart again unless something else is broken

I noticed above someone had to pay $188 for parts!!
I ordered the motor for $51. plus $20 core.

This is the best website for F150's on the web. I always return here when I need help fixing any of the Fords I have to work on. I have also received help with a few other models too.

Thanks for the thread from a great site

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