Removing Window Motor
 

I have a 1999 F150 SC 5.4L Lariat. Apparently my passenger side window motor is shot. I've looked at the fuses and everything is fine. When I press the switch the motor makes a small noise and the interior lights dim. It went through an intermitent period where it wouldn't work but after turning the truck off and back on, it would. Now it's stuck and in the down position at that. It appears that the motor is revitted in. How do you replace it?

I don't know what the motor looks like or how it is mounted but you can always drill out the rivets if they are easily accessable to a drill. I assume that the rivets are not part of the door exterior and that there is some sort of mounting bracket inside the door?

The rivets are easily accessible, however, I'm told that it has to be rivetted back in. A bolt head would interfer with the slides as the window goes up and down.

Well, there are at least two ways to drill out a rivet. You can get a drill bit the size of the head of the rivit and drill it off (and hope you don't go thru the mounting material)

or

you can use a drill bit the same size as the hole that the rivet fits in and the head of the rivet will fall off in the process.

You don't have to remove the regulator to replace the motor. If you look at the door skin, you'll see three little dimples in the upper corner (nearest to the rear view mirror). Use a 3/4" hole saw, rotobroach, drill bit, whatever, and drill into those dimples. You'll then have three neat little holes to access the three 8mm bolts that hold the window motor in place.

Right on Quintin! :thumbsup:

2001 F150 Supercrew.

I recently removed my driver’s side motor because the window wouldn't go down. I first checked for power at the switch and then again at the motor terminal. Both had power so I assumed a bad motor. Well I removed it, banged it against my tire a few times and checked it again and it worked. Not sure how long it will last, but I can replace it with a new one in a matter of minutes now.

Here's some pics of the holes I drilled to gain access to the mounting bolts. I used a 7/8" hole saw...

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...235&anum=11501

Here's some pics of the motor itself...

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...236&anum=11501

https://www.f150online.com/galleries...237&anum=11501

Just did Chiller's procedure on my Dad's 2001 F-150 SuperCrew.. WORKED GREAT !!

Dad's driver's side window stopped working, and when the down button was pushed, you could hear the clicking of the one touch relay in the Central Junction Box. <= worth noting this, in case your driver's side window stopped workng, and you hear the one touch down relay is clickng ( noise from the Fuse Panel in the pass cab area ).

Did the drill the door procedure with a 7/8" hole saw to get to the bolts on the power window motor. The bolt head is a 8MM, not actually a bolt, more like a HEX head sheet metal screw.

Took all 3 bolts out, reach in through the speaker opening ( what the speaker mounts through ), grab the back of the motor with your hand. Turn the Motor Anti Clock wise ( when looking at the motor from outside of the truck ).

The gear will release, from the X track in the door, by pulling away ( as in towards the outside door skin ).

I hit the motor ( the white part of it ) against the rear tire. Not real hard, just enough to shake it up a bit.
Plugged it back into the harness, and tested it. Worked again.

The testing was :
1. Check the Accy Delay Relay function by having all the doors shut, and turn the key on, and off. The other 3 windows will go up/down, until the timer runs out.
2. Took The one touch down relay out, and bench tested it. Ohm meter the N.O. and N.C. contacts, and energize the relay coil, both sets of contacts work fine.
3. Took door off, unplug motor from truck, used a seperate battery to test. Terminals on both ways ( as in POS and NEG then reverse, to test the other direction, no action either up or down. <- Appears that the motor is no good.
4. Remove motor, hit against tire.
5. Plug in to the harness, just hanging free, test with switch again -> works
6. Install back in door, test via window switch again -> works
7. put door back together, used it a few times. -> still working.

Dad came up with, the motor brush guides had some carbon stuck in them, that would not let the spring push the brush towards the motor. This worked for some time, until one ( or both ) of the brushes was far enough away from the armature, resulting in no field being made. The motor seems bad in this state, but the slight rap on the tire might have jarred the carbon in the brush guide loose, and let it spring forward again. This is a complete SWAG, so take it with a grain of salt. Might stop again in 2 weeks, 2 months or another 5.5 years ?

Just in case someone has a power window that stops working any time.

Can you help with this, my husband is having trouble with his window being down,the motor works. He says its the pulley and cables are tangled and loose. Any suggestions? Thanks

#1 - Start a new thread, this is a thread on the previous models ( unless your '04 is a Heritage model ).

#2 - Try some pictures of what is going on in the door, as there are no cables for the window, a motor attached to a steel X brace, that is moved up and down. What he is talking about does not make sense.

#3. With the new thread, he is going to need to remove the door panel, to do some diagnoses, so it is best he take a look at the door panel removal section of the Muth Signal Mirrors. Right click Save As, so he can read and print them out if he want.
http://www.kwmuth.com/techsupport/pdfs/21000960.pdf
obviously stop at the point of once the door panel is off the truck, no need to unblot the mirror head.

#4. When you say his, I inferr this is the driver's window. Need a bit of confirmation on this. Got the Specs from the profile.
Year = 2004
Cab style = SuperCab
Trim Level = Lariat

With this info in the new thread, it should get rolling very quickly, rather the attaching to an old thread, on a different body style truck. Again if it is not an '04 Heritage ( does not seem to be by the profile info ) , then my mistake for asking for a new thread.

Thanks, we'll keep an eye out for the new thread.

Big THANK-YOU!
 

Just wanted to say a big THANK-YOU! for this thread. I fixed my passenger door motor in one afternoon with no cost for parts (motor/reguator was jammed up).
Photos were a big help. Thanks again!
JM

I dont know what I would do without this forum... My passenger door had two dimples, but looking at the pictures gave me the idea where to drill the third hole... My window is back up tonight, so rain wont get in... A c-clamp on the track is currently holding the glass in place, but I'll replace the motor tomorrow... Or the next day.. or the next...

Thank you Quintin and everyone on this thread.

I just fixed the window on my 97 F150. It was stuck down, I drilled the holes on the dimples (I only needed to drill two holes, the third bolt already had a factory hole), loosend the window motor bolts, wiggled the motor, tried the switch and the window started working.

Jim

Passenger Window Works on Weekends!!
 

SSCULLY and others that have run into this same problem.
I have a 96 150 SC that Ihave had about 2 months, the pass. window will only go down when it feels like it! I read all of the above posts and sure enough it is the motor, as in the 96 I was able to give the side of the motor a few "love taps" with a small brass hammer and the window flew uo and down like it was still 1996...After 3 days of working I put the door panel back on and 2 days later it quit again.:(

I did not attempt to take the motor loose from the regulator, BUT now I will try that if some one can tell me if I can get into it or is it sealed/ not serviceable.. I know the original owner of the truck and that window was not used very much so I think it is just "gummed up" from just sitting in one position. If anyone has cleaned just the motor I sure would appreciate the input. TIA, LAKEBUM

Problem Solved
 

:thumbsup:Thanks a million gentlemen for the advise. Took me a little while, but finally got the holes drilled, motor out, and replaced.

RECOMMENDATION: Take a piece of wood and cut the 7/8" hole in it before drilling the door metal. Use C clamps or vise grips to hold the wood piece in place. This will help guide the hole saw bit and make for cleaner cuts.

Would have added picture, but not that experienced with this site yet.