Articles & How-To's *NOW WITH VIDEO SECTION!*

Center Console Sub Enclosure Build

Old Apr 15, 2009 | 08:38 AM
  #16  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
I tackled making a base plate for this box as well; I started by fabricating my 1.25” spacer ring out of 2 pieces of ¾ birch, and finished it off with a flush mount offset for the sub to sit on.



Name:  IMG_0245.jpg
Views: 3718
Size:  99.2 KB

After ring has been added to the base plate:
Name:  IMG_0251.jpg
Views: 3417
Size:  87.1 KB

Test fit on the box:
Name:  IMG_0250.jpg
Views: 3495
Size:  92.8 KB

While waiting for glass to dry I decided I would need a way to securely hold the back of the console down. I ended up using some .125” thick 6061 T6 alum plates to hold it securely to the floor of the truck.

Name:  IMG_0246.jpg
Views: 3423
Size:  117.6 KB

Misc Pics:


Well that is all I have for the day at least I got some pictures right?
Tonight I plan on adding some layers to the base plate to get that up to par with the box. I also have an idea to incorporate some LED’s and a contact switch. I have a plan to light them up only when the console is open, otherwise they will be shut off. I have purchased some good 180 deg wide angle green LED’s to put into the enclosure. On a side note I am considering getting a logo etched into the plexiglass.
 

Last edited by Bluejay; Apr 28, 2009 at 11:53 AM.
Reply
Old Apr 15, 2009 | 05:45 PM
  #17  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
I have close to $60 in mat and $65 in resin right now. I don't see myself needing anymore mat, but I may need to buy another gallon of resin (wouldn't use it all on this project). The birch for the ring was $25, and the router bit was $20.
 
Reply
Old Apr 16, 2009 | 08:24 AM
  #18  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Day 6:

I managed to get 9 layers down on the base as well last night, I am going to wait for it to dry and see how strong they are. I was planning on 10 to 15 layers, but I am feeling confident that this will be strong enough as is. I am using a thicker mat this time around as well, so I know it will be stronger. I am thinking that I will probably be trimming up everything this evening and possibly mounting the sub to the base getting ready to put the two halves together. I am hoping that tomorrow night I can get the two halves together, so I can focus on some of the cosmetics that the box will be getting, such as lighting, and the plexiglass insert, I am also going to be getting my contact switches in this weekend.

I figure I should at least have the amps and all speaker wire runs done and in the truck this weekend. I have the molex plug connector which makes life hell, so I will have to drill some new holes in the door and the chassis to get the speaker wires through to the doors. I will be laying sound dampener over the weekend; I don’t think I will have the clay in time to put the clay around my speaker mid base rings, and to help add mass to the center console.

9 layers of mat on base plate:
Name:  IMG_0259.jpg
Views: 3454
Size:  179.6 KB

Name:  IMG_0258.jpg
Views: 3452
Size:  138.7 KB
 
Reply
Old Apr 16, 2009 | 03:28 PM
  #19  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
I am going to be trimming things up and mounting the sub on the base tonight. I will try to get them both together or at least started to. I won't have it completely done until my contact switches get here so I can wire in the LED's to light the box's interior. I will have a rough finished box by the end of the weekend hopefully a finished entire install by next weekend.
 
Reply
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 08:22 AM
  #20  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Day 7:

Well last night I got it all trimmed and was ready to put the two halves together but I did not like the way it was going together so I decided to sacrifice about .15 ft^3 and went about making a different base plate. This will now put my enclosure down to about .6 ft^3 so I plan on adding a bit of poly fill to the front lip area to help gain some of what I lost hopefully. I managed to get 7 layers down on the new base plate last night, leaving me with only to seal off the last little bit of front chamber. I am hoping to get that done first thing tonight leaving me with only the painting and cutting the openings out.

Measuring out the new base plate:
Name:  IMG_0260.jpg
Views: 3396
Size:  117.8 KB

Name:  IMG_0261.jpg
Views: 3436
Size:  122.1 KB

After the glassing:
Name:  IMG_0262.jpg
Views: 3451
Size:  163.4 KB

Name:  IMG_0263.jpg
Views: 3443
Size:  120.1 KB


I also tackled the rear air delete plug last night as well, it has been sitting on the back burner since I first made the mold.

Name:  IMG_0264.jpg
Views: 3402
Size:  110.6 KB

Name:  IMG_0265.jpg
Views: 3402
Size:  113.8 KB

Tonight I am planning on finishing up the box (seriously this time), and getting the plexiglass window trimmed and set in. Once I get the plexiglass window opening made in the box I am going to give it until Sunday to cure a little bit more. I am also going to be painting the entire enclosure a tan color that will hopefully match the interior tan. I am going to be installing the rest of the audio equipment this weekend while I am waiting for the box to cure. So this weekend will still be busy but there won’t be much done with the box.
 
Reply
Old Apr 17, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #21  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Originally Posted by ProblemHouston
Let me know the paint code you use so I can get some myself. Also what color vinyl you used earlier in the build to wrap the AC delete (I think that is what you used it for).
I plan on taking the vinyl into the hardware store and matching it as close as I can with a rattle can off the shelf. There is only going to be about 30 square inches total exposed area on the sub box which will be right next to the seats and no one will see it.

And as for the vinyl I simply went to my local upholsterer and had them look through there stock until I found one that matched my grain pattern and color. So I really can't tell you what color that is either.

Sorry I couldn't be more help with that
 
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2009 | 11:48 PM
  #22  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Well, I did not get much accomplished with the box today just a couple layers on the bottom to make it enclosed also go the holes cut out for the plexi and the sub. I am going to be letting it cure the next 2 days before I start painting it. I am about 3/4 of the way through my install of everything however so that is a good thing as well. I can't wait to get it all in and running.
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:35 AM
  #23  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Day 7:

Well over the last couple of days I have not got a lot accomplished on the box itself. I will be getting another chance tonight to work on the box. However, I have been working on the main install of everything while I let the box cure a little before I sand and paint. So I figured I can show the other random install pics I have, just to give you guys an update and so you know I am not slacking and leaving the suspense build on this box for no good reason. Here they are the install pics:

Box top cut out for the plexi:
Name:  IMG_0267.jpg
Views: 3422
Size:  109.2 KB

Test fitting the rings:
Name:  IMG_0268.jpg
Views: 3438
Size:  122.1 KB

Name:  IMG_0269.jpg
Views: 3399
Size:  118.5 KB

Name:  IMG_0271.jpg
Views: 3444
Size:  114.9 KB

Mounting the tweeter pods:


Name:  IMG_0278.jpg
Views: 3500
Size:  81.5 KB

Name:  IMG_0279.jpg
Views: 3501
Size:  75.9 KB
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:36 AM
  #24  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Sound dampening (have some clear plexiglass to seal off the big holes in the lower portion of the doors):
Name:  IMG_0270.jpg
Views: 3434
Size:  106.8 KB

Name:  IMG_0275.jpg
Views: 3411
Size:  131.6 KB

Name:  IMG_0276.jpg
Views: 3468
Size:  180.1 KB

Name:  IMG_0273.jpg
Views: 3418
Size:  167.6 KB

Name:  IMG_0272.jpg
Views: 3384
Size:  148.3 KB
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 08:36 AM
  #25  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Amp mounting (still have to route wires and permanently mount the wires) :
Name:  IMG_0280.jpg
Views: 3823
Size:  179.3 KB

Name:  IMG_0282.jpg
Views: 3472
Size:  110.0 KB

Name:  IMG_0283.jpg
Views: 3437
Size:  142.6 KB


Tonight I will be working on the box; I am going to be putting one more layer of glass on the box just for added measure. I am also hoping to get it sanded down and ready to go for paint tomorrow. I am hoping that in the next couple of days I can have this box in the truck and playing.
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:18 AM
  #26  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
They are mounted straight to the sheet metal back wall. I used 62 sq ft, for the front two doors the 3 layers on the back wall, and 2 layers on the transmission hum on the floor. I will be buying another 62 sq ft to cover the entire floor, the two rear doors and the roof. I just wanted to get the critical areas immediately and pick up some more here in another month or so and continue the process.
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 10:19 AM
  #27  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
i hope you did some surface prep on the doors before you put that deadener on. In my experience it will be peeling off once you go through a hot summer....
Ya I had an eager friend who started putting that on the door before I could stop him, but we went through with 60 grit sanded it up and then used rubbing alcohol to clean up the doors.
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:20 AM
  #28  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw
just didnt look like it in the picture, just wanted to make sure :o
Your right in those pics it did not show because I did not get it done before my friend had started I was still running wires so you were right nothing done at that point. :o
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 05:43 PM
  #29  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
I used 3/4" self tapper screws.

Arcuhtek:
I sanded the surfaces that I was applying to with some 60 grit and washed the door panel down with rubbing alcohol to make sure the adhesive would stick. Then I just went about laying down the sound dampener. I don't think you will have any issues with it sticking, the stuff I used once it grabbed I had a heck of time trying to move the stuff if I had placed it wrong.
 
Reply
Old Apr 22, 2009 | 08:14 AM
  #30  
05_sprcrw's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,268
Likes: 2
From: Rural NE
Originally Posted by Fabian06SC
in my experience with fiberglass and body filler, let it dry well and prime it...
then let is sit out in the hot sun for at least a day. I would recommend two. Once its sat that long, sand your initial coat of primer and do a second and let it thoroughly dry over night. The next day you can apply paint.

Priming and painting before a substrate is complely dry will result in low and high spots later down the road on the finished surface. It will look great at first but in six months youll be kicking yourself for not letting it dry trust me! lol

Now if your not gonna see much of the body work/paint then you can probably just let the primer sit overnight and shoot the next day.

Everything looks great thus far. keep us posted!

Thanks for the tips, and that is exactly what I am doing. I built the box up pretty quick so I will probably be painting on friday that will be almost a full week it has been curing.


Last night I just did some minor sanding on the box getting it ready for paint. Tonight I will actually be working inside the cab to secure all my wires and start getting all that squared away for the initial power up.
 
Reply

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:42 PM.