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I put a spectre universal intake in my 03 f150. Forgot to unhook my battery and it wouldn't run. Then I was told to unhook my battery and let the computer reset I left it unhooked for about a minute or two then hooked it back up and it still won't stay running. Any advice?
I am attempting to do this mod now finally. Truck is a 2000 F150 XLT 5.4L 4x4. I bought it used many years ago and it already had the K&N kit on it. I never liked how it sucks the heat from the engine compartment. Living in Arizona I notice a performance difference during the summer. Also I don't think it filters as good as they say, but that's another topic. Since I did not have the stock intake, I bought one off of eBay from what I thought was another 2000 F150 5.4L. What I got was the intake from a 1997. My question is does anyone happen to remember the inside diameter measurement of the filter housing after removing the snorkel? These different years appear to have different size openings.
This is what I received which looks like what I've also seen in pictures of the V6. As you can see the snorkel connects on the outside of the housing.
Based on pictures from others performing this mod, this is what I should have.
This piece snaps into the inside opening of the housing.
My concern is that the opening on the one I received which I measured to have an inside diameter of 2 5/8":
and the opening on this:
do not have the same inside diameter. If I go with the one I received I would be choking the engine. What tipped me off was when you connect the 3 inch rubber coupler to the housing and PVC pipe that goes into the fender, there is a good 1/4" to 3/8" gap all the way around to seal off on the filter side and is just way too loose in my opinion to use. The VIN number this intake came off of was on the receipt. It shows it's from a 1997 V8, 1FTEX18L3VKC57705. Maybe the difference is due to when Ford went to the PI heads? Thanks for any help you can provide.
did this mod for 20$ I am currently installing it now only gona be a 10 min job.. I also pulled the silencer out in the big L piece can’t wait to put it back together and see if it did anything
They maintain a list of those doing the modification.
2002 f150 4x4, 4.2l, 5 spd manual tranny
my truck came with the smaller end on the filter cone so I cut the cone further up before attaching the rubber. Still not as big as the other fitler cone type (I'll buy one later) but opened it up some. Sounds a touch better but primarily gives me better high end rev at highway speed. We'll see how it goes. lol
Did gotts mod like results used angle grinder with cutting wheel to cut down flange O
Originally Posted by stoffer
Do you feel your truck needs more air?
Are you not willing to pay $250 or more for a “cold” air intake for your ‘97-‘03 F-150?
Are you afraid of “cold air” intakes sucking in too much hot air from your engine bay?
Do you think drilling or cutting up your factory air filter assembly looks too tacky?
Are you afraid of permanent modifications to your truck?
Do you already have an aftermarket drop in filter?
Do you want to keep running paper filters?
Do you prefer the look of your factory intake?
If you answered YES to any of the questions above; then look no farther than this simple easy modification to your factory intake that will be 100% reversible at anytime if you are ever unhappy with the results.
NOTE: Something to Consider: at the time this was written up Troyer Performance (TP a great source in F-150 performance and custom tuning) has data logged and has dyno tested all of the aftermarket intakes available for the F150 and has thoroughly documented the results. TP has found that the stock intake runs the second coolest only beaten by the Airforce-1 which TP lists for $239 on thier website. With this modification you are getting a lot colder air into your engine than most of the aftermarket intake kits on the market today. It could potentially be colder as well but we wont know for certain until someone data logs the IAT with both intakes.
Tools and items needed to complete this modification:
1 - Straight screwdriver
2 - Sander, dremel tool, file, grinder or some kind of sanding device
3 - A 3-inch pipe flexible coupling (preferably black) inside diameter will be around 3 ˝ inches to accommodate the outside diameter of the PCV pipe.
4 - a 3 inch diameter PCV pipe (black is preferred but color doesn’t really matter)
5 - 2 hose clamps (the pipe coupler should come with 2)
6 - 8mm wrench or socket
* Now you are ready to begin. First things first go lift your hood and look where your factory inlet tube meets your drivers’ side fender. Yes this tube right here:
This is the cause of your trucks lack of performance at higher RPMs because this factory piece is literally choking your truck. Look at the tape measure and see for yourself.
As you can see this is why the factory piece has less than a 2-inch diameter inlet tube and you are about to give your truck a true 3-inch diameter inlet tube that doesn’t suck in hot air from the engine compartment. This intake modification still draws in ambient air temperature thru the fender well just like the factory designed.
1. Start by disconnecting your negative battery cable (to reset your computers strategy for the extra air coming soon from the modified intake) needs a 8mm wrench or socket.
2. Undo this clamp right here with a straight screwdriver:
Remove your entire air filter housing assembly (the large “bucket” where you change air filter all the way to the fender snorkel. (The snorkel will just pull out of the inlet hole)
*On my truck the Previous Owner has bent the metal clasp so I had to remove the entire assembly as I have to have the whole housing out of the truck in order to close it properly*
OR
Just take your air box apart like you are changing air filters and just remove the piece that goes into the fender
3. Use a straight screw driver to undo the snorkel cone:
There are 2 points inside the tube just press the ends with a screwdriver and they release
4. Cut off a 4-5 inch section of pipe:
Originally Posted by cH1rO420
Thanks Terajame I was waiting for something like this with more pics. Will do this soon.
So all I need is a flexible coupler, 3 inch and those 2 straps that tighten with screw?
I have 3" pipes around here so I won't need to be buying any.
