I am 98% through hooking up my PIAA 40 series lights that I just got from mattbert (thanks man). I need a ignition (key) driven power source for the switch. Usually when I install accessories, I run it off an empty socket in the fuse panel, but I don't have any.

What have you guys used as a power source for lights and other accessories?

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 5.4L, 4x4, auto, Extended Cab, Deep Wedgewood Blue, 3.55, Towing Package, Sliding window, CD player, 4 wheel abs/discs, 255/70/16's, bedmat, K&N Gen II FIPK, Manik One-piece Black Grille Guard
Planned Mods: Black Max Tonneau, Hella 500's, Edelbrock Shocks

 

I have the main power coming off the battery, I just want a switchable source so I don't leave the lights on and kill the battery.

What's the best way to find an ignition switch driven source? Should I just poke around with a probe until I find one??

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 5.4L, 4x4, auto, Extended Cab, Deep Wedgewood Blue, 3.55, Towing Package, Sliding window, CD player, 4 wheel abs/discs, 255/70/16's, bedmat, K&N Gen II FIPK, Manik One-piece Black Grille Guard
Planned Mods: Black Max Tonneau, Hella 500's, Edelbrock Shocks

 

Blue2K,

Depending on your particular set of options you may have some unused relay and fuse "sockets" in your engine compartment fuse box (I did). One of those empty sockets may contain a "switched on with ignition" power node (mine did). I have installed "day time running lights" using these "available" sockets/nodes without the need to pass any additional wires through the firewall. (no override switch, lights are on whenever the key is) Use your owners manual to identify the assignment of the (missing?) relay/fuse and a DVM to determine the polarity and status of these open sockets in each key position. (note: some sockets contain NO electrical connections) If you find what you need in terms of switched power, the entire fuse box can be easily removed and partially disassembled via plastic "tabs" to allow routing the wires into the fusebox from the bottom thus preserving the factory integrity of the fusebox (from water intrusion, etc.).

Good Luck... XLT_D

 

Hey

X driver said sounds like the way to go. But what I did was take out the radio and connect a wire to the remote antennea(sp?) lead. I then ran it down to a switch and then through the firewall right above where the gas pedal is. I then ran it to a relay that was supplied with the lights and had the power come straight off the battery. When the key is turned and the relay gets power, it then sucks juice from the battery. Good luck.

 

You could use your radio, or maybe if you have an overhead console, or maybe you power windows. I have my KCs hooked up to a constant. Just watch your voltage and amps draw on the source you decide to use.

------------------
--Lariat4WD--

2000 Ford F-150 Extended Cab Flareside 4x4 Lariat
5.4L;auto;3.55LS;Black/Charcoal;ORP;remote keyless;floor-shift 4wd;Class III;AM/FM/SingleCD
Mods so far:
Lund X-Terminator bug shield; Vent Shade Vent Visors; Westin Black step bars; Pendaliner bedliner; GSP black Safari Grille Guard; Clear corner lenses; under hitch backup lights; 2 KC Hilites Daylighter 6" 150W black round; Cranked torsion bars; 2 Polk Audio EX10 10" subs under rear seat; Sony XM754HX amp; Viper 300ESP alarm; NR Auto white/black gauges; changed silver 2-tone to dark charcoal, warranty paint work on bed sides and roof; removed all Lariat striping...for now. Body shop reapplying new ORP decals; 2001 Lightning tail lights; Husky catch-all liners; Custom 5.4L badges; Flowmaster 40 Delta Series SI/DO exhaust w/ dual 18" chrome angle cut tips out back
Pending
99 Z-28 chrome tips
Warranty Paint Work Pending
Hood being repainted due to acid rain damage
Wish list:
More lights; 2001 Lightning head lights & corners; Optima red top battery; Remote start & Prox. sensor; Custom center console housing 6.8" LCD and TV tuner & PS2; VCP; GPS; BedRug & Roll bar; Aluminum dash kit

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1288981&a=10889838&p=40339331&Sequence=0&re s=high" TARGET=_blank> </A> <A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1288981&a=10889838&p=40339335&Sequence=0&re s=high" TARGET=_blank> </A>
<A HREF="http://www.bmgsite.com" TARGET=_blank> </A>

2000 VW Cabrio GL (Wife's)
2.0L, auto, pw, pdl, pm, tilt, cruise
Green ext, black cloth int
Am/Fm/Cass w/ CD cgr
Subs & Amp pending.

Auto Lease Authority

 

Mine are wired to the battery. It's hard to leave lights on like this, and not know:



------------------
98 Black F150 S/C 4x4 ORP 5.4

4" Rancho lift, 14 KC lights, lots of other goodies. Check out www.F150World.com/Mudder for pics and all the info.

 

Blue2K,

As I said, things will vary because of your options and my lights have no override switch, they are on when ever the ignition is!

But here are my specifics...

In the Engine compartment fuse box: I used RELAY position/socket #302 for +12v and Gnd. for the lights and my relay... and FUSE position/socket #115 for the ignition switched +12v to turn on my relay.

I ran the "daytime running lamp" (fog lights)wires in 3/8" dia. plastic wire loom from the grill area to the area below the fuse box.

There was enough room between the left wheel well and fuse box to mount my relay. I then ran the 3 wires up throught the bottom of the fuse box through unused sockets and attached my wires to the nodes using standard crimp on blade connectors ( I actually soldered them instead of crimping).

I didn't have to drill any holes anywhere or modify the fuse box in any way so it's integity is preserved.

Hopefully this description will help you identify similar possibilities in your situation.

Good Luck... XLT_D

 

I have several empty fuse slots in my fuse panel, but I looked in the manual and they all say "not used". They didn't have any power to them, so I am assuming they are just duds.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 5.4L, 4x4, auto, Extended Cab, Deep Wedgewood Blue, 3.55, Towing Package, Sliding window, CD player, 4 wheel abs/discs, 255/70/16's, bedmat, K&N Gen II FIPK, Manik One-piece Black Grille Guard
Planned Mods: Black Max Tonneau, Hella 500's, Edelbrock Shocks

 

I work for Ford and in our shop we have an EDM machine... I drew up a sketch for a guy I work with that runs the machine and he burned it out of a piece of 1/8 inch thick stainless steel plate. I was going to drill it out on the mill myself, but that way was just more accurate. Also, the overhead console was custom cut by the place that installed my sunroof. Not the way I would've done it, but it works.

I can give you more info on the wiring if you want it...

-Joe-

 

fuel pump relay

 

GIJoeCam - wow, quite the setup you have there. Very clean and well done.

------------------
2000 F-150 XLT, 5.4L, 4x4, auto, Extended Cab, Deep Wedgewood Blue, 3.55, Towing Package, Sliding window, CD player, 4 wheel abs/discs, 255/70/16's, bedmat, K&N Gen II FIPK, Manik One-piece Black Grille Guard, PIAA 40 series driving beam
Planned Mods: Black Max Tonneau, Edelbrock Shocks

 

My switched source came off a fuse tap under the dash that the sunroof installers used for the sunroof. My switches, relays, and LEDs all add up to less than 2 amps, so I'm quite sure I'm not going to damage anything by piggy-backing that circuit. The sunroof also only draws 5 amps, so there's nothing to worry about there either. I'm not a big fan of having 25 amps of juice running through a switch in the cab, so all the relays are under the hood, and the switches can all be mini switches. (i.e. more switches in less area)


My switches all control a relay block under the hood for the accessories that draw their power for the accessory right from the batttery. Here are some pics...

The relay block



The switches


The back side of the switches


Another under-hood shot...


The power for the fuse block come from the hot side of the accessory solenoid on the firewall right there behind it, so all of the accessories are on their own individual circuit drawing juice right from the battery. Each switch has 2 power sources to energize the relay (like the CB can be on with the key or on all the time, or the daylighters can be on with the hi-beams or on with the key depending on switch positions). LEDs are 2-color to indicate which power source is being used.

Just thought I'd give you some more ideas.

-Joe-


------------------
98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners, Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard, Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way) Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console, Bully Stainless Steel Trailer hitch drawbarw/ 2" stainless steel ball.
List of planned mods: Clear tails, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...

93 Probe GT teal, OE rims painted to match, bone stock drivetrain.

 

gijoecam--

did you make your own faceplate for your switches (duh, of course). how did you do it. send me an email sometime, will you?

abo@email.byu.edu

thanks.

------------------
"flexible hips mean higher steps"

2001 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 5.4L Auto w/carpet delete, tow package, power adjustable pedals, law enforcement scanner, CB w/PA, Speedliner, Streamlight Stinger, Graco infant car seat