Ok, I just got a Jensen LX600 Amp... I can go, 2 ch. 3 ch. or 4 ch., I will be running 1 Pioneer 10" Sub(250Watts RMS, 500Watts MAX, at 4 ohms). It says if i do it 4 ch. I get 600 watts, would this be true, and what would be my best route? Here is a reference sheet..

 

yeah you'll get 600 watts on a good day with the wind at your back and being pushed by your truck! the 600 watts is a max rating. Jensen usually doubles its RMS rating for its max. The amp is probably rated at 75w into each channel. Using it in its bridged mode of 3ch will give you 75w into 2ch and 1ch at about 200w or so. 2ch mode will give you 2ch at 200w ea. That will drive your Pioneer sub well and right to what it is rated for. I would not give the Pioneer sub much more power than that.

 

best place for any Jensen product is in the trash can.....not worth the money or frustration...

Robbie

 

Don't get me wrong. For the price of the Jensen stuff it is just fine. I just hate that companies will overinflate the numbers and unsuspecting people buy what they think is a good deal. In car audio, the rule is you pay for quality. Some stuff is ridicuolus on price (JL w7, rainbow comps) while others are not worth the time to mess with (kenford, rockwood). The Jensen is a nice starting point for a first system. Just research and be wary of numbers that say MAX. Always look at RMS wattage for amps and speakers. Match these up (maybe a little over on subs) and you will be fine as far as equipment goes.

 

Ok, so i should do two channel? How........ On the diagram, it shows I have to put it in a, then in d....... its kinda confusing.. Take a look at this...

 

You are pretty much right about the older jensen stuff, but the new amps are pretty decent, basically you are getting what you pay for now, exactly what you pay for.

 

178 for this one... So about the thing, i think i've got it figured out.. I put the RCA in (On amp) "A low input", and "D low input", am i correct?and as for speakers hookup, do i go, "A-CH '+'", then "D-Ch '-'" and i put the thing on the top, the little **** deals, on 2 ch, and on low pass filter(LPF), and bass boost on? Thanks for the help guys, i'm gonna wait til it warms up outside to do it..

 

What is up with you guys?? Jensen makes some decent equipment. Just because they were crap once, doesn't mean they are now. I'll put it this way, would you guys buy a Soundstream or Pyramid amp now? Ten years ago they were acceptable equipment, my last Soundstream would shut down due to heat after an hour on the Interstate. In my opinion, JUNK! I am running the exact same amp that LL is planning on installing, and it plays for HOURS at high volumes(and sounds great), without a hint of losing power or clipping. I just took some pics of how I have mine wired, and I can send them to you, LL. I can also do a small diagram of what the dials are set at. You will not be disappointed with your purchase. Is it a underrated MTX window cracker? No, but it will rock the cab very well. As a matter of fact, I am using a Polk GNX104 in a recarpeted Wal Mart 10" box, firing down into the center trans hump. My door speakers are Polk EX365 6.5" coax. I decided to spend my money on the speakers, not an overpriced brand name amp.,,,,98

I just bought a Rockford fosgate 8ga. install kit for my new dedicated 500 watt sub amp. $45 for two lengths of wire and a fuse holder??? What a ripoff!lol! Shoot me an e-mail, LL. gaml@earthlink.net

 

Hey, thanks alot.. I'll shoot you an email, and i already paid for the amp too, i paid 24 bucks for a wiring kit, came with more...

 

The only way to connect a 4 channel amp to a single sub is to bridge the amp's left and right channels so in effect it is now a 2 channel amp. Then run either channel into each voice coil (you'll need a dual voicecoil sub). If you only have a single 4 ohm voicecoil then it's can't be done and you won't see maximum power to the sub. Sorry.

Visit http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/index.html for more information on wiring.

Anything more than 200-250 watts rms into a single standard 10inch type subwoofer will fry it. If it has larger than a 2 1/2 inch voicecoil it may survive. Problem is a single 10inch driver has to move almost twice the linear distance for the same sound volume as a 12inch sub. Laws of physics.

 

I disagree. It all depends on the sub. Now, I haven't done the research, but I had my JL 500/1 on a 10w6 and it loved it. I'm positive that the ADS 310 rs.2 will handle up to 600w. The statement above is "highly" driver dependent.

 

Like I said, a "standard" 10 inch driver.

The 10w6 JL is by no means a "standard" driver.

The only reason to use a small diameter sub these days is for space limitations. That's why I use a single Alum-12. If you have the space get more cubic inches for your $.

It also depends on your musical taste. If you like Bass Mekanik tracks get a sub with high Xmax, a 3inch or larger voicecoil, 120oz magnet or larger, vented pole piece, wires woven into the spider not free hanging tinsel wires, big surround, as big a diameter as you can fit, etc, etc.

Relationship between Xmax and ultimate power capability (provided the voicecoil can take it)

Maximum (Displacement Limited) Output and Powerhandling
10W6 (Xmax = 12 mm)-----------Speaker A (Xmax = 6.5 mm)
20 Hz
95.7 dB 189.2 W ----------------90.2 dB 78.2 W
30 Hz
102.7 dB 244.3 W----------------97.3 dB 81.5 W
40 Hz
107.7 dB 392.6 W ---------------102.3 dB 90.6 W
50 Hz
111.6 dB 705.5 W-----------------106.2 dB 109.7 W
60 Hz
114.8 dB 1275 W------------------109.3 dB 144.6 W
80 Hz
119.8 dB 3649 W -----------------114.3 dB 290.2 W
100 Hz
123.7 dB 8655 W -----------------118.2 dB 597.5 W

The W6 series is pretty highly rated.

 

I have to disagree with you, on a couple of your points, I know of quite a few set ups (like I had running at one time) where I was running 300 watts to an infinity kappa 10, a very standard sub. And I have a friend running 500 watts to an infinity perfect 10 without any problems, and yes those are rms ratings.

And no, space limitations are not the only reason to get smaller diameter subs. A 15" or 12" won't hit as hard at lower power levels as a 10" or an 8". Space limitiations in most applications are secondary, unless you don't care about SQ at all.

You make interesting generalizations, please explain where you are coming from in your views.

 

Ok boys, my rms is 250, and my max is 500, this is my sub, so i should have no problem, problem settled. I'm gonna run 2ch, the end.

 

If we bought our amps at the same place, then I believe I just bought the same wiring kit as well. It did come with MUCH more,,,,,98

The RF kit is gonna be for sale real soon, lol!!!!