I'm helpin my friend, and i need help......
#16
LLoverCrazyJay: Since your friend's boxes have tweeters and will be playing full range sound you need either a 4 channel amp running in bridged mode (effectively 2 channel), or a 2 channel amp. "A" channel to left speaker, "B" channel to right speaker.
The choice is up to you. If you friend will get a truck with a supercab in the future than perhaps get the 4 channel amp so you can use it for front/rear speakers and buy something bigger for a more powerful subwoofer setup.
When buying stuff always think ahead or how you can use that component in your next system.
I wouldn't recommend a class-D amplifier when powering a full-range signal. For the bass only it's fine but class-D produce a lot of THD% distortion at higher frequencies, unless it is class-T and has www.tripath.com chipset.
Always look for watts rms power, peak power means nothing. You could buy a 2000 watts peak power amplifier and it only makes maybe 70watts rms x 2 = 140 watts total "real" power. There are absolutely NO standards for "peak" power. So basically it COULD produce 2000 watts but for 0.000001 seconds.
The choice is up to you. If you friend will get a truck with a supercab in the future than perhaps get the 4 channel amp so you can use it for front/rear speakers and buy something bigger for a more powerful subwoofer setup.
When buying stuff always think ahead or how you can use that component in your next system.
I wouldn't recommend a class-D amplifier when powering a full-range signal. For the bass only it's fine but class-D produce a lot of THD% distortion at higher frequencies, unless it is class-T and has www.tripath.com chipset.
Always look for watts rms power, peak power means nothing. You could buy a 2000 watts peak power amplifier and it only makes maybe 70watts rms x 2 = 140 watts total "real" power. There are absolutely NO standards for "peak" power. So basically it COULD produce 2000 watts but for 0.000001 seconds.