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Uhhh....

 

Could you please elaborate as to how the Jensen amp rocks. Always heard they were a piece of crap. However, I am thinking about adding a Jensen amp to screw. Please give details.

 

Well, I posted what I felt about the amp, and then thought better of it. I knew everyone would chime in and say they were junk, so I edited the post.
But,,,,it is a decent amp for the money, and with two 6.5 Polks and a single ten inch Pioneer sub, it really rattles your teeth. And yes, it was bought at Wal-Mart for $180. And,,,it sounds great,,,,98

 

98SCREAMER;
I saw your post before you edited it, but was in a hurry and didn't reply then. However, I am of the opinion that there are many brands that make solid components, but don't 'play the game' in marketing them. Let me use one of my cheap amps as an example vs a premium brand equivalent.

Crunch vr4004c, rated 4x100w, 4ohm, 0.05%THD, $180
This amp could be overrated by up to 25%, and probably puts out 75w RMSx4.

MTX Thunder6304, rated 4x37.5, 4 ohm, <0.1%THD, $400
This amp is designed for obtaining the highest SPL/rated wattage, and is probably equal to the Crunch in wattage.

However, the MTX label is rated much higher than Crunch, and rightly so for the efficiency/SPL or straight quality crowd. However, when you rate the brands on power/dollar, Crunch (or Jensen) kicks butt. I've ran cheap and expensive amps through the years, and unless you're in competition, the cheap amps do just as good.

 

Well, unless Jensen really drops back down where they have been quality wise for the last ten years, I'm going to put the same brand amp in my 65 Falcon. That car is going to need some serious Dynamat help,LOL. BTW, I just installed those Polks today, and put the small 12x12 sheets under them.. WHAT a difference!! I'm sold on that stuff for good.,,,,,98

The red light up logo on the amp is not necessary, but it does look kinda cool

 

Do you have to run a crossover with that amp 98? Is it bridgeable? What type of sub are you running? Thanks.

 

It's bridgeable(4/3/2), and can be run in ("tri mode"?) No crossover needed, it has high and low pass switchable crossovers built in. For such a low priced amp, it has alot of hookup options. I'll scan and post thier setup suggestions from the manual later this evening. For now I'm running a single Pioneer IMPP 400 10" sub. I'm thinking of buying a better enclosure later, along with a better sub. Yep, the sub and enclosure are from Wal-Mart too,lol I'm steadily upgrading, so don't be too hard on me.,,,,,98

 

Hey we all have to start some where. Thanks for the info 98, I might have to pick me one up this weekend. Beware I will hunt you down if it sounds like someone farting under water.. ..hahaha...j/j. Once agian thanks.

 

Hope you have patience, or lots of gas money,lol! I'm up in Cincinnati right now,hehehe. Here's the diagrams for the amp,,,Enjoy!!

 

Thanks 98. I guess I'll have to wait to hunt you down until you get back in town......haha. Be safe.

 

Hey 98..great install info!!

How hard is it to install. Never installed an amp before only speakers and head unit.

Also here is a dumb question..if you have a 2 channel amp..you would only hook-up the front speakers to the amp and leave the rear speakers alone. Is this correct?

Again, love to know your thoughts.

 

For the best sound with a two channel, I would recommend hooking up the amp to the fronts for sure. The rest of installing an amp is pretty easy actually, just time consuming as hell. Finding a place for the amp to go should be the first choice. I have mine mounted under the rear fold down seat on the small side. I have to have my fold down seat for traveling. Reg. cab guys are probably stuck with under the seat, or behind the seat on the back wall. Next, get yourself an amp install kit. Radio Shack has them for much less than the big chain electronic stores. They have everything you need except for speaker wires, so pick up some of that too, and connectors.
Routing the power wire, and the speaker wires are the most difficult part(IMO) The power wire should go directly to the battery, with the supplied inline fuse as close as possible to it. (((Disconnect the battery before you start!!!))) Find a grommet to thread the power wire through, or make your own hole. Make sure to protect the wire from getting cut where it passes through the firewall. I took out the battery and drilled a hole in between the computer and the insdie of the fender. The speaker wires are a PIA, route them as far away from the power wire as possible(might pick up noise) The PIA part is getting them threaded through the door protectors(rubber hose) The easiest way I've found to do that is to pull off the door panel(and speaker) then thread a stiff(but flexible)piece of wire in through the door side of the baffle. Put a tight loop in the end of the wire to keep it from tearing the baffle.When it comes out on the inside of the truck, tie the speaker wire to it and gently pull it back through into the door.
Now you can run the RCA's from the head unit, down through the dash, then
under the carpet to the amp. While your doing this connect the remote on(blue usually)wire to the head unit also. Most decent RCA cables now have a remote on wire built into them, which makes it real simple to do. Plug the RCA cable(s) into the amp and then connect your remote on wire too. It usually connects to the amp between the power and ground wires. When you get to the ground wire, keeping it as short as possible will give you the best results. Find a good clean grounding spot, like a existing bolt that screws into the floor somewhere. If there aren't any close, drill your own hole and scrape the paint off around it. Bolt that down, and you should be done. Make sure and test it all out to make sure it works before you start reassembling your truck. I made that mistake a few times before. Good luck!!!,,,,,98

Just make sure you connect all of these to avoid trouble
Ground wire
Power wire
RCA's
Remote turn on wire
Speaker wires

Guys, let me know if I left anything out! Wouldn't want to mislead anyone on purpose!