hey yall !!!!
so i am piecing togather my system for my 04 stx. waiting for my line out converter, tweeters, and digital 1.0 farad capacitor that ll be here in two days. i might get early start.

CURRENT SETUP-
running stock 6 disk HU, RF PUNCH 5x7 speakers up front and a 8'' 150watt blaubunkt sub in a self contained aluminum housing with auto turn on. for some reason the sub/amp always stays on. system sounds very good but i want more more more.

FUTURE SETUP-i have a old clarion 2X50 rms amp thats going under driver seat that are gonna push a set of RF POWER 5X7 speakers up front. the old RF PUNCH speakers are going in the back with passive bass blockers.

then i have 2X matching ALPINE V-POWER mrp-220 amps going to run bridged to 2x RF DVC 4ohm POWER P2 subwoofers. one amp per sub mounted behind rear seats. i think there rated 140rms a piece. capacitor will be somehere?.. prolly under rear driver side seat if theres room so you can see it.

CONCERNS- i might get confusing, bare with me. to run the clarion amp and front speakers, i am planning to splice wires right behind HU (before harness)and run to amp under seat then back to HU into harness(only hacking up HU wiring). the speaker wire will split X3 under seat. 1-to molex connector in clarion amp then the other 2 to the dual LINE OUT CONVERTER. from there 2 sets of RCA to the 2 ALPINE amps.

does this all makes since? i know they make kits so i dont have to hack up the HU wiring to run speakers and the remote turn on wire. if someone could sent link that be great. also it will be my first time bridging an amp and running DVC but i think i got that figured out.

thanks in advance-maybe ill draw it up in paint so you can get a better idea

 

i forgot to add that ill be using a atrend dual firing down box under rear seats.

i prolly wont use the tweeters or bass blockers for back speakers considering their getting like 14watt rms.

im trying to figure out a way to split the 8 gauge power wire instead of running 3 wires from battery. i might have to buy 2 distibutor boxes. hopefully the 8ga is big enough. i have 4 ga but that seems over kill

 

MY COMPONETS=

LOC- http://www.amazon.com/DB-CONVERTER-V.../dp/B0057T4R8U
SUBS- http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...6&locale=en_US
edit- http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...n_US&p_status=
AMPS- http://www.crutchfield.com/S-PHpzldE...-MRP-T220.html
REAR SPEAKERS- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ch-P1572C.html
FRONT SPEAKERS- http://www.amazon.com/T1682C-Rockfor.../dp/B0052OU6PI
BOX- http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-A372-10...1653536&sr=1-7
CAP- http://www.amazon.com/Raptor-C1-0FM-...1653667&sr=1-1

OLD AMP/SUB for SALE- http://www.crutchfield.com/S-9sEGEfp...-THb-210A.html

should sound aight

 

my beautiful schematic made in paint. im using a ball type mouse, it sucks.

 

i hope the alpine amps are powerful enough- 140rms pushing 250rms sub x2 edit- 300rms

ill post pics of install if anybody is interested

 

If you get dual two ohm subs like you have linked that amp won't be able to push them, it'll do 140rms at 2ohm bridged which is was under powering. Not only that you'll only be able to wire those subs at either 1ohm or 4ohm depending if you wire the voice coils in series or parallel. That amp is not 1ohm stable and at 4ohm the subs will only get 70rms not nearly enough.

You need to get one amp that can do 500rms at 2 ohms. Then wire the voice coils on each sub in parallel so they both have a 1ohm load at the terminal on the side of the box. After that wire them in series when you connect them to the amp so it sees a 2ohm load at the amp.

Otherwise your gonna fry those amps really fast if you try to put a 1ohm load to each one, and if you do a 4ohm load you'll never hear your subs.

Also with those power level you don't need a capacitor unless your going for flash appeal, it'll serve no purpose.

 

somebody knows there stuff. good catch. just testin ya
the subs i have are the dual 4 ohm voice coils, not the 2

i already had the two amps so i just bought the other alpine for cheap
alpines are usally conservative and its within RF guidelines for the power requirements (70-250rms)of the subs. could be louder though. i ll see how she sounds. maybe later ill buy a bigger amp like you suggest. thanks for the input. it was a very one sided thread.

 

Haha yea, I'm suprised no one else chimed in to help. But yea if you don't like the power the amps put out you can always sell them and go bigger, alpine's tend to have good resale value.

When you wire your amps, don't run every single power line to the battery. Instead pick up one of those distrubution blocks that let you run a bigger wire, like a 1 gauge power to the battery and they have the same gauge ground on it, and then it has taps on it for all your power and grounds for your amp. It'll look cleaner and should help with shorts in case you ever have one. I'll see if I can find one online to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

EDIT:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-0...#ht_5657wt_963
basically one of those for your powers and one for your grounds. If you go this way you still need to fuse the wire for the battery and still put the fuses in between the block and amps.

 

thanks for the link. i figured they made someting like that. i already have a 4ga 50 amp? fuse box where i suppose i could put 2 8ga wires in the one side to make the split and get just get another fuse box. might work and be cheaper. this way i would only have to run 1 wire to the back instead of 2. plus more fuses couldnt hurt. also it will be easier to wire in my cap where i want- for the subs

i assume 8ga is good for my 380watts rms-thats like 2000watts in pyle/legacy standards. a capacitor couldnt hurt, i mainly got it for looks-the digital readout and cool raptor graphics. itll match my ''raptor'' muffler. i think the system will be loud enough-for now

 

Since your running 3 amps your need the right gauge wire for each one and a fuse for each one. Undersizing wire is never a good idea, it leads to blown fuses, burned out wires, and possible fires.

 

Here you go its a crappy drawing but you get the idea, and use whatever gauge wire your amps require. And basically same concept for grounds minus the fuses and battery of course.

 

i guess ill run my 4ga to just before first amp then split w/ fuse box or distrubuter. this way i got enough wire to run my 8ga for all the grounds and the 8ga will be only be running 280rms for 6 feet. i only need to buy 2 more 4ga fuse boxes.

agreed that it be better to run seperate lines to all the amps but it be hard to tie in cap

 

tie the cap in before the block with the main power wire off the battery

 

that make more scence but the whole reason i got the cap was to see it and the digital read out. the subs could use it more then the speakers anywho.

i checked out the subs-thier are the 250watt 2ohm dvc ones-going to run bridged to 4ohm, thats all the amps are rated for. i think they should pump pretty good. at least better then my one 8''

also idk if the cap will accept 4ga wire

 

If thats the exact one you ordered it will, it uses ring terminals so it'll accept any gauge wire.