If you Have a Large capaciter inline on power the Amp draws from both the capaciter and the charging system. That draw on the capaciter is enough to remove the spikes in the charging system due to capaciter recharge hence modulate (remove spikes) in the power source. A inline buffer if you will.

 

A capacitor can filter spikes but there are not a lot of spikes in our trucks electrical system and the switching supplies of today's amps already filter them out with internal capacitors and inductors. The amp only draws current from the highest voltage source. The cap will only be that source when everything else drops below the caps charge because the system is drawing too much current at that moment in time. It will then rapidly discharge in milliseconds or less and the alternator will take over again. The cap will only get recharged to the highest voltage in the system. If you have a charging system that is incapable of supplying stable current to your amp when demanded a capacitor is not going to fix it. You need to be sure your charging system is capable of driving the loads you are adding. If not then upgrade your alternator.

 

A capacitor in no way will replace an insufficient Charging system..thats why I suggested the Alternator upgrade. A capacitor would aid his system in a spike senerio. I also brought up the added load would reduce voltage and raise amps across the board on his electrical system. If he drops to 12 volts then his amplifiers power output would
drop aswell.

 

Correct. Money saved by not buying a cap could be better used elsewhere to improve his system. A cap is not needed.

 

Isn't that basically why if your having voltage issues a cap is more of a bandaid on the problem rather than a fix?

 

I would always upgrade the altenator when you have a huge stereo. Especially one like you are building pizzaman711. Your amp draw will be throught the roof if your going to pull 2250 watts RMS on subs alone. I would run a dual battery set up and a 200 amp alt if I were you. 2250 watts / 14.4 volts= 156 amps. Holy crap...lol talk about hearing protection required...lmao. I use a Cap for power conditioning. Made my amps run cooler. I am running 800 watts RMS 1600 peak on 12" subs and 150watts RMS 300 peak per channel to Polk DB series mids and Highs. This set up has been in for about 8 years and can still rattle your brains if ya want.

 

Ah yea that's what I'm afraid of haha. I'm gonna see how it goes once I get it all done and then go from there to try to save as much money as possible, but I definitely see the big 3 and a bigger alternator in my future ha.

 

Yes a cap is a bandaid and it does not do anything other than fill in very short transient spikes. If you have lots of spikes and noisy power you probably need an alternator replacement. If you are already having voltage problems a cap can make it worse by adding a load to your already taxed system. Two batteries only help with key off. Higher output alternator is best investment along with the big 3 wiring.

 

OK so i hooked up the punch 300x amp. i either bought it blown or blew it when i was installing a fuse. i put in a 30amp fuse in a 80amp holder to see if it would work. same length different diameter. the bare end of live wire touched the cab, sparked, and blew the fuse. i had no wires to amp yet. my 2 alpines were uneffected. dosnt make scense.

they said i can ship it back. i should have got a bigger amp anyway considering i have a small sealed box. i seen a 550x on cl but i want to hook it up before i buy it. the wires and everything is there ready to go.

i was also looking at this amp-power acustic demon 1400watt rated 300rms x2
http://www.poweracoustik.com/pa2011/amps-demon.html
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...Amplifier.html

anybody talk me out of this

 

i could get a RF PRIME 300 rated 150rms x2 for the same price i would need two for the same claimed output

 

or possibly
http://www.techronics.com/caraudio_1...T-1400-4-.html

 

quick question....

when mounting amps do you have to mount them to a wood surface??? i mounted the alpines right to the cab.

is this a big no no or what<<?>>

 

I would screw into wood, the cab is thin metal so more likely for a screw to pull out.

 

sleep much???

im not really worried about the screws pulling out so much as grounding out the amp housing and possibly causing something to blow. i quess no one has really had problems one way or the other. the alpines are still bumping and i dont want to do the hassle of cutting out wood and what not. going to the depot and buying wood if i dont have too. and its not like theres much room back there to begin with. i noticed that the head rest post are just hitting the top of my amps. so any1 mounting amps beware.....

 

Nah you won't have a problem with grounding. But if you are worried about grounding you could always just cover the wall where the amp is with some electrical tape haha.

And me sleep? Never haha. I'm a computer science major in college so I'm on my laptop from like when I wake up at 8 till I go to sleep at like 2 almost everyday haha. I just like f150online up as a distraction from homework ha.