How many watts should I look for?

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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:20 AM
  #1  
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How many watts should I look for?

Ok I have two MTX TR-45's

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236T451...3&tp=111&avf=N

I built a custom box for them with exactly the right dimensions. I currently have a 4 channel Hifonics Zeus 440 watt amp powering them. I know I'm not getting the full potential that these subs have out of this amp. I need help picking an amp that will get these subs to perform the way I want them to.

I listen to some rap and a lot of heavy rock/metal with some Howard Stern on the side :P So I need them to hit extremely hard during rap and if they do that then they'll perform fine for the other stuff. Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Cin
Ok I have two MTX TR-45's

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_236T451...3&tp=111&avf=N

I built a custom box for them with exactly the right dimensions. I currently have a 4 channel Hifonics Zeus 440 watt amp powering them. I know I'm not getting the full potential that these subs have out of this amp. I need help picking an amp that will get these subs to perform the way I want them to.

I listen to some rap and a lot of heavy rock/metal with some Howard Stern on the side :P So I need them to hit extremely hard during rap and if they do that then they'll perform fine for the other stuff. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hi.

Specs suggest you need to invest in better subs - these will never meet yer as-stated requirements ... sorry.

A larger amp with more reserve is just going to exacerbate the limitations of these units for yer specific needs.

Moderate listening levels - fine. Extreme use - nope.

•10" 4-ohm subwoofer
•polypropylene cone
•nitrile-butylene rubber surround
•power handling: 100-200 watts RMS
•peak power handling: 300 watts
•frequency response: 38-150 Hz
•sensitivity: 86.4 dB
•top-mount depth: 4-7/8"
•sealed box volume: 0.75 cu. ft.
•ported box volume: 1.45 cu. ft.
•warranty: 1 year

Just lower yer expectations - go for some semblence of musicality and fidelity - 'hitting extremely hard' is fer nipple-pierced punks

MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; Jul 26, 2010 at 07:22 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 10:22 AM
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I don't necessarily agree MGD.

I'm a big fan of little, lightweight subs, in an optimum enclosure, and given a decent amount of clean power. I think it's SOOO much freaking fun to make the guys with big, bad a$$ subs, and huge amps look stupid, when they have all that expensive stuff, but using it incorrectly.

I used to have two of the most light weight little 10"s (mine were RF's, but they were about like these MTX's) and guys used to think I had 15"s.... or four 12"s, or something crazy.

Anyway, hey CIN, your already ahead of the game if your enclosure is indeed spot on. Of course if its just "really close" you should be able to tweak it a little bit later, to get it "spot on".

As for an amp... Depends on how much you want to spend. Even with these little light weight subs, you could run a pretty powerful amp. Here's a tip; when your looking at amp specs, "look at the lowest numbers"... In other words, don't pay attention to peak power. If you could find an amp that puts out a legitimate 400 to 500 wts RMS, into 2 ohms (that's what your pair of subs will be) I really think these little light weight subs have the potential, to make a bunch of the guys with big heavy subs, feel really dumb !

Peace,
Fish

PS, Obviously, big bad a$$ equipment, which is set up optimally, is even better ! But how much does a guy want / have to spend ?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 04:27 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I was using 4 TS-85's before so I know what I was downgrading to. Also, these subs do actually hit pretty damn hard and the only reason I went with them over the better model was because the magnet was too big to fit under the back seat.

So I'm thinking an MTX elite 600 watts. Good to go?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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From: jax fla
Take the Subs RMS + number of subs and start there. I like to go a little over. Power is cheap, get the most and best you can afford. You can always cut the gains down and have extra headroom.

IMO you can do better in sub selection. But its your coin
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PorkCereal
Take the Subs RMS + number of subs and start there. I like to go a little over. Power is cheap, get the most and best you can afford. You can always cut the gains down and have extra headroom.

IMO you can do better in sub selection. But its your coin
Roger that, PC. That's a good rule-of-thumb

My concern is overdriving marginal subs - hence my observation about exposing their limitations even further. Anything with a -3db point of 38Hz does not qualify as a subwoofer in my vernacular ... nor should it. All yer gonna get is doubling, at best - and a lot of distortion. (What's that smell??? lol).

Mr.Cin -seen this thread? https://www.f150online.com/forums/am...icker-l5s.html

Now ... that's a sub

MGD
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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From: jax fla
Shhh!, if he powers them right, cranks the bass boost, turns the bass on the headunit all the way up it wont last long. Just kidding, I wouldnt advise that.

Overdriving the marginal subs wont happen if he sets gains properly. Just because you have the power, doesnt mean he is ever going to use it. If he buys a better amp now, it gives him room to upgrade subs later.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2010 | 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by PorkCereal
Shhh!, if he powers them right, cranks the bass boost, turns the bass on the headunit all the way up it wont last long. Just kidding, I wouldnt advise that.

Overdriving the marginal subs wont happen if he sets gains properly. Just because you have the power, doesnt mean he is ever going to use it. If he buys a better amp now, it gives him room to upgrade subs later.
You picked up on my plan! Nice. I picked up these subs because I needed my backseat back so I had to sell the TS-85's.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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From: jax fla
Id look into the Si BM's, shallow 12's that sound good and throw down. With a 3-600w power range.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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have u tried hookin the positives up on the subs and then just twistin the negatives together? it got full potential out of my 2 kicker 12s
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cmac#3
have u tried hookin the positives up on the subs and then just twistin the negatives together? it got full potential out of my 2 kicker 12s
Care to explain how you solved the cancellation problem? Just curious ...

MGD
 
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Old Aug 1, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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From: jax fla
Originally Posted by cmac#3
have u tried hookin the positives up on the subs and then just twistin the negatives together? it got full potential out of my 2 kicker 12s
All you did was change the load of the subs which may or may not match your amps specs.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...igurations.asp
Should be your friend. If check it before that amp or subs see sparks and smoke.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Fish Chris
As for an amp... Depends on how much you want to spend. Even with these little light weight subs, you could run a pretty powerful amp. Here's a tip; when your looking at amp specs, "look at the lowest numbers"... In other words, don't pay attention to peak power. If you could find an amp that puts out a legitimate 400 to 500 wts RMS, into 2 ohms (that's what your pair of subs will be) I really think these little light weight subs have the potential, to make a bunch of the guys with big heavy subs, feel really dumb !
Please explain your logic. More displacement and higher power is going to be louder than smaller speakers with lower power in almost every case...laws of physics.

Also keep in mind, a "legitimate" 500 watts means nothing for your subwoofer if it is not in a proper enclosure. You could put it in a tiny **** box and it might take 600 watts all day. Put it in a huge box and it will bottom out with a fraction of that power...

Originally Posted by PorkCereal
Id look into the Si BM's, shallow 12's that sound good and throw down. With a 3-600w power range.
If you dont want a seat lift, this is hands down the best option.
 
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