How to wire a 4-Channel
How to wire a 4-Channel
Hey guys,
I've installed speakers, and a HU but never put in a 4-Channel amp. I have wired an amp for my friends escape but it was a sub amp.
My question is how do I wire a 4 Channel? Do I have to remove the factory speaker wire and run new wire directly from the amp? I am unsure what all I might be getting into beyond just hooking up subs.
This is the amp i have
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+CPT4-800.html
and my wiring kit
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ik+AKIT-4.html
I already have a kenwood HU and doorspeakers.
Thanks
I've installed speakers, and a HU but never put in a 4-Channel amp. I have wired an amp for my friends escape but it was a sub amp.
My question is how do I wire a 4 Channel? Do I have to remove the factory speaker wire and run new wire directly from the amp? I am unsure what all I might be getting into beyond just hooking up subs.
This is the amp i have
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...+CPT4-800.html
and my wiring kit
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ik+AKIT-4.html
I already have a kenwood HU and doorspeakers.
Thanks
I would run new wire from the amp to the speakers. Do you have to, no. But you woudl have to splice into the stock harness behind the radio then from there run wires back to the amp. So whats a few extra feet of wire to not have to pull the headunit and mess with stock wire.
4 channel amp, run each channel to a speaker 1/2 to fronts or rears, 3/4 to the other. You can run 2 sets of RCA's or just run splitters off the 1 set, doesnt really matter.
4 channel amp, run each channel to a speaker 1/2 to fronts or rears, 3/4 to the other. You can run 2 sets of RCA's or just run splitters off the 1 set, doesnt really matter.
For a 15' run at 80 watts RMS you want a minimum 18 gauge speaker wire to prevent audible loss of the signal.
For the basics, check out the tutorials at JL Audio's website, they've got several system wiring diagrams that will show you the basics. (there should also be one in your amp's owner's manual).
For the basics, check out the tutorials at JL Audio's website, they've got several system wiring diagrams that will show you the basics. (there should also be one in your amp's owner's manual).
you will have no ill effects using the factory wiring that goes out to the doors. the wiring is plenty capable of delivering the amplified signal without loss.
you can look online for 9 wire...its basically 8 color coded speaker wires and 1 blue amp turn on wire all bundled together. normally theyre 18 awg wire as well. run that from your 4 channel amp along with 2 sets of rcas to the back of the radio. its so simple to access the back of the radio. i see you have an 02..just unsnap the radio surround and pop out the kenwood radio either with the kenwood keys that came with it, or the entire dash kit is just a snap in.
dont forget to run the power wires and rca wires down opposite sides of the truck as to prevent alternator whine.
if you have any questions, just ask here or pm me and ill help
you can look online for 9 wire...its basically 8 color coded speaker wires and 1 blue amp turn on wire all bundled together. normally theyre 18 awg wire as well. run that from your 4 channel amp along with 2 sets of rcas to the back of the radio. its so simple to access the back of the radio. i see you have an 02..just unsnap the radio surround and pop out the kenwood radio either with the kenwood keys that came with it, or the entire dash kit is just a snap in.
dont forget to run the power wires and rca wires down opposite sides of the truck as to prevent alternator whine.
if you have any questions, just ask here or pm me and ill help
Last edited by snowboarder7710; Apr 22, 2010 at 09:11 PM. Reason: forgot some info....
Thanks for all the responses. I ordered the amp this afternoon.
I am thinking on just tapping into the existing wire behind the HU. What gauge is the factory wire and will it handle 80rms and 200 peak? If not I will just go ahead and replace but id rather not. It was a huge pain trying to deal with the door panels. Even if I can run on stock wiring for a week or two until I have a nice sunny day to run new speaker wire.
Thanks!
I am thinking on just tapping into the existing wire behind the HU. What gauge is the factory wire and will it handle 80rms and 200 peak? If not I will just go ahead and replace but id rather not. It was a huge pain trying to deal with the door panels. Even if I can run on stock wiring for a week or two until I have a nice sunny day to run new speaker wire.
Thanks!
Last edited by msrc93; Apr 22, 2010 at 11:16 PM.
i believe its around 16 awg.....plenty of wire to handle 80 rms. i ran 128 rms through mine from my alpine 4channel
just keep the stock wire...you will not notice any difference between the factory wire and say 12 awg...which is huge overkill anyways
just keep the stock wire...you will not notice any difference between the factory wire and say 12 awg...which is huge overkill anyways
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Speaker wiring in the doors on our 06s is 18 gauge, not sure about 02.
If you use speedwire (the 9 conductor snowboarder mentioned) make sure it's 18 gauge, IIRC the Kicker speedwire is 22 gauge.
BTW, at 128RMS, you're losing 4.5% of voltage through 15 ft of 18 AWG, with 12 AWG your around 1%.
If you use speedwire (the 9 conductor snowboarder mentioned) make sure it's 18 gauge, IIRC the Kicker speedwire is 22 gauge.
BTW, at 128RMS, you're losing 4.5% of voltage through 15 ft of 18 AWG, with 12 AWG your around 1%.
Last edited by GATORB8; Apr 23, 2010 at 09:24 AM.
I don't see why people invest good money into new door speakers, an amplifier, a headunit, amplifier install kit, and STILL decide to run wiring back to the HU for high-level power to the doors. Personally, I'd run 12awg from the amplifier directly to the doors. $10 worth of 12awg wiring and about an hour more of my time for running the wire to each of the doors. The only pain would be system removal, getting back behind the doors to reconnect the stock wiring. IMO, don't stop just before the finish line and walk back to the start.


