I just bought some new door speakers, and I'm going to hook them up to an amp that I bought today, I haven't installed the door speakers yet, I will probably put them in next weekend. The amp I bought is the Alpine Mrp-f300, I bought it used off of a guy locally and he said he only used it about a week. He gave me all the wiring that the audio shop used to connect it to his new door speakers too.

The current headunit I have is the Pioneer Avic D3. The speakers that I bought are the polk audio db571s and the db691s. I was going to put db571s all around but I got a to good of deal to pass up on these brand new. I also ordered the Metra 72-5600 speaker harness to connect the new speakers to the the factory wiring.

The pictures I'm about to post are not mine. I found them while doing some research on how to install everyone by myself.

The way that they show makes everything look simple so I'm asking if this is the correct way to do everything.

So I install the new speakers into the doors with the metra adapters. Then the current harness that I have for the headunit, I cut the 8 wires that give audio to the headunit and run them to the amp.



I know that these pictures say for tweeters but since it's door speakers it should be the samething right?



Then when I connect the 8 wires from the harness to the amp. I connect two rca cables to the amp and to the back of the headunit. I cable for the front and another for the rear. This is where I have questions. On the pictures it shows a blue/white stripe wire, where do I connect that on the amp? Can the wire be just a normal wire or does it have to be thick? Then it says to connect a wire from the amp to the battery, the wires that came with amp I bought, one of them has this capsule looking thing, is that the wire I connect to the battery? (Pictures of the wires I got at the end) Also it says ground wire, where do I connect that on the amp? and where do I connect on the truck?



Here are Pictures of what came with the amp I bought



The wires on the right that are blue are the two pairs of rca cables. The ones on the bottom left are the speaker wires to run from the the harness to the amp. The ones in the top middle one of them has that capsule thing I was talking about, and one end is a terminal connector the other end is bare wire. The other cable is just a terminal connector and bare wire. The cable at the top left is just wire that's as thick as the ones with the terminal connectors. The black box the guy said it was something so that I could control the fade/balance of the speakers with the headunit.

I know I asked alot of questions but this is the first time I've ever done something like this and I want to do it right.

 

Here's a page from the Avic D3 maunal, do I connect the blue/white wire that goes from the amp to the headunit to the blue wire from the avic harness, this page describes it at the very bottom

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The blue/white stripe is your remote wire, this is what tells the amp to turn on and off and doesn't have to be heavy gauge wire. I have a D3 also and I think there are two blue/white stripe wires back there one for remote out and one for the power antenna, they should be labeled.

As for the speaker wiring, the way that's drawn, you're just running speaker wire to behind the head unit and using the factory harness to get the signal to your door speakers instead of running it yourself to each door.

The "capsule thing" is your fuse that should go between your battery and your amp on the power wire, no more than 18 inches from the positive terminal, someone correct me if I'm wrong please. That black box shouldn't need to be installed, I don't know about your D3 but mine controls fade and balance just fine.

 

bump....

i'm thinking of getting new wiring so the knuconceptz 8 gauge amp kit, will be what I need right?

 

You could hook your amplifier up that way. That is the easiest way of getting the signal from your headunit to the amp then to the speakers without tearing all your door panels apart and flooring getting new wiring to the speakers. One thing I will suggest though is to NOT send the amplified signal back to the dash then through the stock wiring because your amplifier might put out more power than what the stock speaker wiring is rated for, which can lead to potential hazards like overheating the wiring with more power than what they're rated for. Hope for the best but prepare for the worst, I always say. Oh, and if I were you, I'd try to go with a 4awg kit only because it offers slightly less resistance than 8awg, and there is better room for upgradability with 4awg.

 

so run it the way i plan but use the 4 gauge kit? i'm only going to be running 50watts to each speaker

 

50Wrms should be okay to use for your stock speaker wiring. I always suggest using 4awg because if you ever decide to upgrade your amplifier to something more powerful, then you won't need to run a new power wire and ground. The only thing with your case is if you do decide to run more power to your doors, let's say 75Wrms or more, then you would need to run wiring from the amp to the doors themselves, and not go back into the stock wiring. At this point it's really all up to you. Your install will be fine with 8awg and going back to the stock harness for speaker signal. Just know that if you decide to upgrade to a bigger amplifier, you will more than likely need a thicker wire, 4awg or so, and you will need to run separate wiring from the amplifier, under the carpet, directly through the doors to your speakers.

 

if i run power to all four speakers from the amp i bought (alpine mrp-f300) i will running 50 watts to them right? this is the info from the manufacturer website

RMS Power (at 14.4V, 20Hz-20kHz)
Per channel into 4 ohms: 50W x 4 (1% THD)
Per channel into 2 ohms: 75W x 4
Brigded 4 ohms: 150W x 2

so that means 50w to each speaker right?

 

That's correct.

Do take note the voltage that is being rated with, in this case 14.4v because your vehicle's electrical system isn't running at 14.4v all the time. The less voltage your amplifier is getting, the less power it puts out. It's nothing you can really notice, but it's just food for thought.

 

so for now the 8 gauge kit would be okay? and do i need terminal connectors? or how do i connect the wire to the amp? and the wire that connects to the amp has a big enough terminal connector to fit on there , this is the amp kit i'm thinking of getting

http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-com-...item5ad7bd459f

 

Spend the extra $10 for the 4 gauge, so if you ever decide to expand your system it's already there.

You should use terminals for your amp:

 

what type of terminal connectors do I need? sorry i'm new to all this stuff..

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=ST48BL


I'd get them for the speakers too. Technically you could do without, but it makes for such a better looking installation.

 

so how many of those do i get? 8? doesn't the kit come with what i need

so i get this

KLM Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit

and 8 of these? or just 4? or 6?

Gold Plated 4 Gauge Spade Terminal

 

The spade connectors, get at least 12. Here is why. If you don't crimp them right, you will have more. Trust me, even a master crimper can get one messed up. Also, you would need one for your remote wire. Take it from a lot of us, when it comes to the kinds of connections on amplifiers like the amplifier you are looking to get, it makes it MUCH easier and cleaner to use spade connectors. They are purely optional, but as a tip, use them. You will have a much easier time hooking those to your amp than bare wire, get much more respect using them, and a jolt of pride knowing you did it "the right way". Also, be sure to use the spade connectors provided with the KnuKonceptz 4 gauge wire kit. It will save you from lots of problems!!