Well I got a sub from my Friends , Son.. Going to put this together Today I Hope .. Poly Fill and all .. My friends son said the same thing you said .. But he did say I needed to get the box as close to recommended size in order for it to work as it was designed too.
He also said keep in ind that the guys at the stereo shops will tell you anything in order to sell you stuff you dont need , in order to make money.. What we have come up with is a slanted box design , it has been cut down a little , interior size is .65 cubic feet.. Sub calls for .55 to .85 cubic feet of air space.. We are going to use poly fill from walmart and if all goes well this should work.. I even had my friend out there with us the other day and he offered to help out ( he is 61 years old ) but he said he would be glad to build a box for me if our slanted idea doesn't work out.. All he wants is my old CD6 HU that i took out of the truck... This would be a good deal, My friend has alot of ( I mean alot ) of wood working tools.. Oh yeah I got chewed out by the wife yesterday for raising my back seat , I believe her words were something like " Go ahead and tear your truck up you XXXHOLE.. " Well today is a new day and pix will be included...

 

Coustic 241SE Specifications
241SE - Stereo Power Amplifier
Triple Darlington Drive Circuitry
Adjustable Bass Boost
Built-in HPF/LPF with Continuously Adjustable Crossover Frequencies
Remote Subwoofer Level Control Ready
Rated Power @ 14.4 V (0.1 % THD) 4 Ohm Stereo: 2 x 60 Watts
Rated Power @ 14.4 V (0.1 % THD) 2 Ohm Stereo: 2 x 120 Watts
Rated Power @ 14.4 V (0.2 % THD) 4 Ohm Mono: 1 x 240 Watts
Input Sensitivity: 0.1 - 5 V
S/N Ratio @ rated power: 100 dB
High-Pass Filter Crossover Frequency: 30 - 300 Hz (Continuously Variable, @ 18 dB/Oct.)
Low-Pass Filter Crossover Frequency: 30 - 300 Hz (Continuously Variable, @ 18 dB/Oct.)
Bass Boost Level: 0 - 18 dB @ 45 Hz


This my amp ...
Bridged it ..240 watts at 4 ohms..
this thing blows subs ...
I just put a lanzar rated at 300 watts rms bass boost all the way down , Gain on maybe a 1/4 of the way up and freq set at 100.. LPF switched on... Now I turn the stereo Pioneer 2900mp to 17 on the volume and play the MTX thaunder tester .. and zap blown voice coil.. I know my amp cant be this good ... WTF

 

What fuses are on there?

 

1- 30 amp fuse///

 

Oh by the way just blew a pioneer from walmart rated at 175 watts rms.. Its going right back today .. cost me 52.00.. Maybe I should have not put poly fill in the box.. or maybe my box isnt big enough.. Dang voice coils cant hold up.. I also ( late last night blew one called a BaSS Series, rated at 300 watts rms ( said it on the back.. ) man this sux.. Maybe I ought to just give up.. If I go buy a 100 or so dollar sub this is going to really suck... I have video of the lanzar sub ... it didnt smoke and it still plays but its all scratchy sounding and it smells electrical smelling

 

Ya, well numbers are consistent. 14.4v x 30A = 432W (max output.)

Does it trash it immediately? Grab an OScope if you have one and watch how the signal runs? The amp may have a large problem.

 

It doesnt blow the sub right away but within a few seconds ... I mean I turn the volume up and use a bass test song or something but it doesnt rattle the truck or nothing... i am going to try once more .. I did have this amp in my other truck but it was wired to 2 Dual Subs and they sounded pretty good but since I only have room for one sub now I have had to bridge the unit.. As you can tell the bridged is like 240 @ 4 ohms and the 2 channel set up is like 60 x2 at 4 ohms.. I wonder if the amp info is a misprint and I am actually running a 2ohm load bridged... That would blow a svc sub ..4ohm

 

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...em+Description

Wally world sub I blew.. It was turned about a 1/4 of the way up ... playing lollipop..

 

This Sony 10" Subwoofer features a unique polypropylene cone design for increased rigidity and 1200W peak power.


Audio:

Impedance: 4 Ohms
Sensitivity: 88 dB/W/m
Frequency Response: 18 - 2500 Hz
Power:
Rated Output: 330 W
Output Power: 1200 W
Speaker:
Subwoofer: d (mm) - 217
Subwoofer: d (inch) - 8.5
Subwoofer: Rdc (Ohms) - 3.3
Subwoofer: Fs (Hz) - 26.6
Subwoofer: Qts - 0.41
Subwoofer: Qes - 0.43
Subwoofer: Qms - 8.40
Subwoofer: Vas (liters) - 52.5
Subwoofer: Vas (Cubic Feet) - 1.85
Subwoofer: Mms (g) - 132.3
Subwoofer: Lvc (mH) - 1.1
Subwoofer: Xmax (mm) - 6.2
Subwoofer: Xmax (inches) - 0.2
Subwoofer: BL (tm) - 12.7
Subwoofer: Enclosure Volume (Net) - 26.6 Liter (0.93 Cubic Feet)
Weights and Measurements:
Dimensions (Approx.): Woofer 10" (25cm) Cone
Weight (Approx.): 8 lbs 13 oz (4 kg)

this one is holding up only problem though is it calls for a 0.93 cubic feet.. and my slant box with the added piece of wood to make the sub fit and not bottom out .. is not big enough i dont think... my slant box with poly fill is 22 inches wide, 15 inches tall, bottom depth of 7' and top depth of 4 inches... and this Sony Sub is freakin huge .. Maybe I should just build a box where the single rear seat is in the back...my box is 0.875 cubic feet not including the sub... now if account for this sub i am going to need a way bigger box ... Ok so the biggest I can build would maybe be 24inches wide,15 inches tall, bottom depth maybe 8 and top depth has to be 4inches... Now I could also build a square box and mount it in the center rear floor .. they say I have to figure 20% for the sub in the enclosure..

 

I ran my sub and enclosure thru Win ISD and here is what I got ( Box to small ) see for yourself.
Relative
Freq Gain SPL
[Hz] [dB] [dB]
20.00 -37.86 49.14
25.00 -33.94 53.06
30.00 -30.71 56.29
35.00 -27.97 59.03
40.00 -25.57 61.43
45.00 -23.43 63.57
50.00 -21.50 65.50
55.00 -19.73 67.27
60.00 -18.09 68.91
65.00 -16.57 70.43
70.00 -15.14 71.86
75.00 -13.78 73.22
80.00 -12.49 74.51
85.00 -11.26 75.74
90.00 -10.09 76.91
95.00 -8.95 78.05
100.00 -7.86 79.14

 

Ok i am tired of reading about subs and enclosures... i have read all day.. Bass sounds ok but when it goes low it sort of rumbles.. i am going to check for air leaks in the box tommorrow.. man i will just say I am thinking about building a box where the little seat is in the back .. I hate it.. Darn..
Plus on my HU I have too many eq and sub and mid and high settings..... crap

 

I had this cool idea .. it might not work but its a start.. Take the longer rear seat out and then actually build a box to fit on it .. ( the underside ) Its going to be slanted and the seat will be slightly raised but not 3 inches like it is now, the n mount the sub firing down.. Also i think I should pull some poly fill out of the box. my box is 0.875 and the sub calls for 0.93 .. i think the poly is hurting more than helping

 

Ok this is getting a little long winded and down right boring ... so I was looking at pre constructed sub boxes this morning and I dont get it.. The volume size I need for my sub is always in the form of a 2 sub cut out box..so i guess i am going to have to build again.. My first box design didnt work to good and now I am thinking I may have to take the sony sub back because of the mounting depth.. i have also not weighed out the idea of building a center console for the rear seating area.. this would possibly work.. walmart sales an enclosure for a 10 inch sub for 29.00 .. I thought about getting this and conforming it into a console unit or maybe just building one.. well anybody got any ideas this morning ///

 

No it wouldnt, because a svc 4 ohm sub bridged is playing at 4 ohms bridged.

 

ok , it's mounted and overwith.. I am happy for now.. The box is to small , the sub does not hit low notes well it rumbles alot.. so anyhow , next year i am going to work on a better box.. right now freq set to 100 hz , gain alost all the way down on the amp... It sounds ok.. Now on to something else// I will post pics and videos later .. watching the colts and steelers now..