Capacitor Help
I wish I could add that one into a sig for myself, but I have no idea how to make one.
Later,
Devildog101
I wonder if he went out looking for yoUR SHoPS wRoNG Engineering?
i know caps are a bandaid but at the same time are an option for this because the amp seems cheap AKA smaller cap bank within the amp, so an external should help for this set up, i dont like them but it would help make up for what his amp is missing. his crazy spike probably come from the amp not having the storage capacity it need and is spiking the system. I say 1f for 1k watts, i dont run one but i dont think they are the devil.
ok, i have a 1200 wrms orion amp (CEA rated)
no electrical upgrade
i have a 1 farad cap ( i use it as a dist block, cause the blue light looks cool...and i just don't feel like taking it out!)
anyway, ~1000 watts + 1 farad + lights still dim = cap dont do ****!
no electrical upgrade
i have a 1 farad cap ( i use it as a dist block, cause the blue light looks cool...and i just don't feel like taking it out!)
anyway, ~1000 watts + 1 farad + lights still dim = cap dont do ****!
Yall, are expecting it to do the wrong things. Thats why the "cap isnt doing ****". Now, whenever you decide that the lights dimming isnt due to the cap and that its not what it was designed for, then we can move past it.
Part of the reason your lights are dimming is because there is too much resistance in the size wire for the ground return. 12ga wire at 4 feet may be able to handle the load of the vehicle but not the added (continous) amperage from the amplifiers at the same time. I have seen people smoke their body grounds before with upgrades, some as small as a 400w amp to a 3500w system (that was fun to watch!!!), from expecting it to be able to hold the load put on it. That is the reason I and a few others PREACH the Big 3/4 (Engine ground, body ground, chassis ground, Alternator to Batt).
Now, this is what a cap IS good for. Filtering AC out of a DC line. This in turn makes the cap bank work less, then the amp gets less hot, and becomes more efficient. The more efficient it gets the less current it needs to produce a given output. Therefore, it has done its job. Lights, dim a slight bit less.
Part of the reason your lights are dimming is because there is too much resistance in the size wire for the ground return. 12ga wire at 4 feet may be able to handle the load of the vehicle but not the added (continous) amperage from the amplifiers at the same time. I have seen people smoke their body grounds before with upgrades, some as small as a 400w amp to a 3500w system (that was fun to watch!!!), from expecting it to be able to hold the load put on it. That is the reason I and a few others PREACH the Big 3/4 (Engine ground, body ground, chassis ground, Alternator to Batt).
Now, this is what a cap IS good for. Filtering AC out of a DC line. This in turn makes the cap bank work less, then the amp gets less hot, and becomes more efficient. The more efficient it gets the less current it needs to produce a given output. Therefore, it has done its job. Lights, dim a slight bit less.
and that is the most logically i have ever heard it explained
p.s. i wasnt trying to say i thought the cap would stop the lights from dimming, im just using my situation as proof that they don't prevent dimming
p.s. i wasnt trying to say i thought the cap would stop the lights from dimming, im just using my situation as proof that they don't prevent dimming
understood. I just got a great chance to use that as an example.



