I removed my factory jack to make room for JL Stealth box. There are 2 bolts that held it in place that look like good ground locations. I understand that the seatbelt bolts are not a good idea because they are intermitant. What does that mean anyway? Will these 2 bolts ground well? Should I use one bolt for each amp ground or use one and split?

 

depends on the size of the bolts. I would try to find a bolt that is atleast as big (diameter) as the bolt you are grounding to.

Intermitant means sometimes you have a good ground sometimes you have high resistance. Same principle as having a nasty corroded battery. sometimes it works sometimes it wont start the car.
-Patrick

 

After having been down this road, I will try to summarize from memory what I have learned from others' responses.

1. Both the seat and the jack bolts are not good ground locations. As you said they are intermittant grounds. I tested both with a DMM and found the resistance to be > 20 ohms at both locations.

2. Ground to the body. Be sure to scrape off any paint to get a good metal to metal contact. I scraped the paint then used an emory cloth to polish off any remaining junk (plus it looked all nice and shiny )

3. Ground together to prevent ground loops. I ran 8 gauge from one amp and 4 gauge from the other to a ground distribution block, then from the block I grounded to the body with 1/0. Good ground with low resistance and I have absolutely no noise.

Low_e_Red and others, please corrrect me if I have posted any misinformation. I am by no means an expert, just trying to relay what I have learned over the past couple weeks.

 

Where did you ground to the body? The jack bolts are connected to the body?

 

So are the seat bolts (rear , then strap to the frame ) The shortest route from the component to clean solid ground is best IMO.

I didn't check the Ohms though(I'll have to do that) , the system sounds fine..

 

I connected to the body behind the rear seat.

I couldn't honestly tell you why the jack bolts are a bad location, other than to say I know they are from checking the resistance. It is something where, like others, you may attach to and never have a problem, but from what people who install for a living have said you are basically rolling the dice. It may work forever without a problem, it may work for a few weeks, or it may never work. The position I took was, with all the time and money I am sinking into this project, why take a shortcut that will save me literally a few minutes and gamble on the quality of my entire install.

Just not work the risk in my opinion, when you can do it right the first time and not have to worry about problems in the future.

 

Its all because you are you using spot welds and welding paint. The paint is non-conductive. And the welds are nowhere near as conductive as a whole metal panel.

If you made squashed each into a wire which would be larger? The weld or the panel?

WELL DONE CARGUY!!!

 

Well stated...

Devildog101

P.S. get some more pics in that gallery!

 

Thanks for the input

 

I agree (not trying to drag another thread out to 3 pages) but if you bolt to the floor pan it is the same sheet of metal that is bolted down to the frame, and strapped to the frame.

I still need to check my resistance on my truck.

 

I promise I will have some pics taken this weekend. I just have not been able to get around to it in the evenings this week between work, school, kids' sports, bad battery, etc. I think my kids are enjoying the system even more than I am; they love having the back seat vibrate.

 

jhogan20 needs to get some pics up as well...

Devildog101

 

will do, I have all my speaker wires and rca cables run down the center under the armest and carpet. I just have to run my power from the battery and find a good ground. It has been below zero here all weekend so it's not the best weather for workin in the garage! I will post some pics of everything when complete later this week