Your right, I never have owned one, because to me they are junk. Why spend 100 dollars on a cap that is just going to kinda sorta maybe cover up your problem, when you can spend 40 bucks on some wire to upgrade the stock wire, whick will usually fix the problem if you dont have a huge setup, and actually fix it the RIGHT way.
Trust me though, Ive had plenty of experience with them.

You say you added a YellowTop also....that was probably what made the biggest difference right there.

As MDG said also, a cap will never come close to storing the energy a battery can, let alone 2-3 times a battery.

Not sure by what you mean total wattage of my setup?? Are you asking peak?? If so, I have no idea nor do I care since it has absolutley no purpose. 1000wrms on the substage and 200wrms on the frontstage.
At the moment I only have one sub in because I dont have the box for both of my subs. But normally I would have two of them. As far as SPL numbers I couldnt tell you. Im mainly set up for SQ with a little thump (sealed box and only 500wrms a sub) so its not super loud, but it will still flex the chit outta everything. If I had to guess I would say lower to mid 140s just from what Ive heard of other people hitting this these woofers in certian applications.

In reference to the showcar burning up, if the battery by the fuse didnt blow, then what makes you think the other fuse would blow? Only reason would be is if the second fuse is larger than the first, or if it happens to pop a smidgin quicker than the first fuse and stop the current flow, in result not poping the first fuse.

There is no reason for two fuses on a wire. Simply putting one in the engine bay and another one inside the cab right on the other side of the firewall is not adding any more protection than having one single fuse in the engine bay by the battery.

 

when replaceing stock wire for around 40$ , which wire or wires are u refering to ///and thanks for helping me understand a little more about caps,, should i take it out, or remain useing it

 

Something we refer to as the 'Big 3', which includes upgraded wire from the battery neg to chassis, alternator to battery possitive (actually doesnt hurt to have a fuse rated at your WIRES current capacity, which would add a little more to the cost-if you used 1/0 wire you would want a 300-350 amp fuse) and from the engine block to the chassis, which is pretty much your alternators ground.
Not necessarily 'replacing' them either, more like adding on to the stock wiring since its usually a good idea to keep the stock wires in there too.

As for the cap, it MAY be helping you a bit now (Im still betting your new Optima is more of the reason that you saw a result), so you could go ahead and leave it in for now, but Ill pretty much gaurentee you once you upgrade those 3 wires you can take that cap out and use it for target practice.

Weldingsupply.com <- Pretty cheap 1/0 wire.
KnuKoncepts has some wire called KLM, which is a copper/aluminum mix so it cant handle QUITE as much current as plain ol' copper 1/0, but it can still take 250ish amps and is MUCH cheaper since it has less copper.

 

s0 i should use1/0 wire , and only replace the grounds?.........can u tell me why i get some engine noise through my cb( or as i call it my, radar detector). i have a in line noise filter it helped some,i do not have it connected at this time....once again thanks for the help and feedback.

 

Yes, 1/0 is usually a pretty good size to use.
You will be upgrading two grounds...your battery ground to chassis, and you engine block to chassis, and also a positive wire, your alternators output wire to your batterys positive wire.

Im not really a CB person...never played with them much and I know they are pretty picky.
Maybe a bad ground, or you are picking up stray interference in your signal wire....someone more experienced with CBs could probably help you better.