Do I need 2 in line fuses, or just one? and the ground wire alone will power the led without the 12 volt wire?

 

Do I need 2 in line fuses? and the ground wire alone will power the led without the red 12 volt wire?

 

You said why go through all the trouble...I'd find it more troublesome to have to pull out a fuse each time! Why would spitfire automatically need a cap?
2 inline fuses would be needed if running a cap, that way if the wire got pinched the cap wouldn't supply 12v to the wire after the fuse and potentially cause damage

n e ways the led would light up if it has enough power to it from the remote turn on...12v...I've done a few switches on remotes with the led indicator. I had no problems since it is 12v, the extra terminal will be ground in this case. Your load will be the output for the remote, so it will be the one going to the amp. When the switch is off the led will be off because you've cut the power lead from the load. When the switch is on, the load will be supplied with 12v andyour led and amp will turn on.

If your load was to be a ground though, then the extra terminal would be a positive signal instead so that it can complete the circuit and make the light turn on. That's why the extra terminal is reffered to as common

 

Thanks, I'll let you guys know how it turns out

 

if you are pushing over 700 wats and you do not not have either 2 batts, or a optima yellow top your amps are loosing power from lack of power from batt it cant keep up with the ampers being drawn of of that batt, if at night your lights dim or fade when u have low bass tones, that is a perfect example u need a cap. r u guys novis or pro installers (in dont mean to sound rude that is not my intention) you could prob help me sometime, i never ran cap tilli changed my subs to the jl 12/w3/v2 when i added my cap my amps gained more power output where the batt could not putout the ampers that was needed 2 keep the rmsat the proper level

 

i sent u a email if u want to talk more in depth we can exchange phone # let me know when is to late 2 call and tour time zone.

 

Hmmm.... better not open my big mouth

 

open your mouth, u should speak your mind, im not saying i know more im just giveing my opinion. i just am wondering why u disagree, im might learn something new.

 

I spose

First off you mentioned cuttin the power with the crossover....Im not exactley sure what your saying here or how that would stop anything...

No real need for two fuses on either side of the power wire either, just going to cost money for another fuseholder and fuse. With a fuse as close to the battery as you can get, without gettting too close, you will have protection for that whole wire pretty much.

Capacitor is more of a bandaid than anything, if it will even do anything. In my mind caps are just a marketing gimmick. Its just one more load on the electrical system to keep charged up, plus its really not fixing anything. If you have dimming issues or your electrical system cant keep up with your setup, then you really need to either upgrade your wires, alternator, and/or battery. If you dont have a totaly insane setup, you can usually fix your voltage/current problem by upgrading your stock electrical system wires. The stock wires are about 10ish gauge...works decent for a vehicle with pretty much no electrical add ons where your not pulling a whole lot of current, but once you add something like a big amplifier or two that pull loads of current, that stock wiring acts like a bottleneck.

If your in need of more current than your alternator can produce then you are going to start pulling the reserve capacity out of your battery, which can happen on even a stock vehicle with no electrical add ons, but with a huge stereo pulling lots of current you will drain your battery pretty quick. So a good battery could help with that, but an even better fix would be a bigger alternator.

So even though a cap might produce some results, its still not taking care of the fact that your electrical system cant handle the load it has on it.


I have 1200wrms total and only have VERY slight dimming on heavy bass notes....thats even with bright lights on. Once I get around to upgrading my stock electrical system wires I should be golden.


Anywho thats a lil run down of what was going through my head...

 

with the eq i thought he was wanting to turn subs on and off not to kill power to the entire system. as for a cap you must not have ever had one i , used to think the same thing u do about a sales gimic, untill i ended up with my new system, i had light dimming prob, so i upgradedto optima yellow top and a cap, fixed the prob and a cap is a power storage unit it only uses power when needed it is not always pulling from your batt, and it stores more power than your batt could prob 2 to 3 times the power. if u add these items you would not have to up grade your elec system, and if you r rms is 1200 what is your total wattage, how many subs do u have, sounds like you are hitting some major db's. have you ever had your system on a db meter to see what u hit. oh yes its another safety device .i have seen a show car burn up, because the fuse by the batt did not blow when the power wire grounded it self,. anyway to me it is 30$ worth of what i call inscurance,vs burning up all of your amps which paid more than 30$ for those guys.

 

u guys ever seen these?
http://www.jiggies.com/equal-to-200-...9.html?ancid=3
I haven't seen them under heavy use, but if it produces what it boasts....
o but I was just saying why does spit AUTOMATICALLY need 1, not that he shouldn't, ur free to do whatever you want to ur system, I haven't even changed my door speakers because I think they sound good..to me all I've done is add a set of tweets for the highs, I know that every1 thinks it's stupid but I'm the 1 in my truck for god knows how long. I'm in it right now at work as a graveyard guard, and I'm happy with it, then again I might be getting deaf...
n e ways yeah caps are only 1 of the things to do for an upgraded system. A buddy I now is running 2 8" L5's with an 800.2 and 2 sets of infinity kaapa components off a 650.4, and he has a 5 farad cap...when his bass hits, his lights dim BAD!...before the cap however, his lights nearly turned off, so slight improvement. I'd love to see if that = to 200 1 farad "cap" would do better.
BTW welcome to the site mpresme!

 

Great comment

 

Hi.

Bartak is correct. A cap is only a bandaid.

If you have voltage brownouts during high-current demands ( almost exclusively the ULF portion of the spectrum), then your electrical system has not been sized correctly. It's as simple as that.

To suggest that a cap provides more 'storage' than a robust, healthy battery is plain false. The internal impedance of a high-capacity car battery is extremely low - that's why, if shorted, they can produce many hundreds of amperes of current.

A healthy battery will be restricted in providing this energy while keeping the supply rail at 12v if the wiring is marginal for the intended worst-case application load. That's why a cap appears to be useful - a locally-connected cap (close to the load), will provide short-term energy for the high-current transients. That's a band-aid, as a properly spec'd supply 'system' (battery, alt, and low-impedance wiring) would be able to satisfy those worst-case requirements without one.

I can't stress proper 'system' design enough - and I am talking about the supply as a system here.

Now - having said all that I realize a lot of systems grow in fits and starts, and that budgets are a factor. Ripping out perfectly good supply wiring, adding batts & alts, etc, to accommodate an upgrade is not always gonna happen. So a cap does have it's uses in situations like these, to alleviate (even partially) a bottleneck and improve performance. Nothing at all wrong with that - just as long as the awareness is there that it is not an optimal, long-term solution.

You do not need to either agree with me or believe me; I don't post in the audio forums much so I have no 'cred', but I kinda/sorta know a lttle bit about electrical systems (from electronics to data centres to power disribution) after 30+ years in industry.

I'd very much welcome an open, honest and flame-free debate on this topic. fellas.


MGD

 

i never said i know everything (i jus act like i do) ...lol.. anyway this is my first ford maybe the elec system is not as i thought, and i never intended to put all of this stero equip in my truck , i jus want to sell it all.,i installed it bcause it will not sell sitting in my bedroom floor, i allready have too many electronics pulling power from my poor lonesome batt..... hey guys i also thought of adding a capp to my winch power supply,would that help from pulling so much from my batt, or is it jus notworth it....soo if you know anyone in the southeast looking for 4 amps ,12"2ohm subs and much more send them my way thanks for the help and feedback

 

Hi.

Adding a cap to the winch would be futile - thats a steady drain, so a short-term/transient 'stiffener' would be pointless.

Again - if that load is taxing the supply - you need to beef the supply 'system'.

Good luck.