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Old Jul 22, 2007 | 11:51 PM
  #16  
Impact9's Avatar
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From: Wichita KS
Originally Posted by flaresideQ
4 gauge is rated at 2400watts..
Try 1084w MAX for 4 gauge @ 15 foot. i use 4 gauge coming from my distro to my amps for about 2 feet.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2007 | 12:13 PM
  #17  
Bartak1's Avatar
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From: Nebraska
Originally Posted by flaresideQ
4 gauge is rated at 2400watts..

Maybe if you get one of those cheaper kits that rates everything at max power....THEN you can say it can take 2400 watts since max power is usually double the RMS.
But max power means absolutley nothing, so no reason to talk about those numbers
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 01:18 PM
  #18  
Dallasstars10's Avatar
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by Impact9
Ok since you may be adding a amp down the road lets plan ahead save you some added work. You might adjust the lengths before you order so measure where you want to route the wires. So plan this out and it's a good thing to order too much wire cause you'd be surprised how short wire can get when you start tucking it away.

Order the following:
0/1 Power Wire - 20 foot
0/1 Ground Wire - 10 foot
4 gauge - 20 foot
4 gauge ground wire - 5 foot
0/1 gauge fuse holder order with 100 amp fuse
power distribution block order with same size fuses as in your amps
ground distribution block
Battery Terminals
12 gauge Speaker Wire
RCA Cables 6 meter

plus any light gauge wire to run as a remote turn on lead between the headunit and the amp.

Here's how it's meant to go together:


-The 0/1 power wire will need to be routed from the battery to inside the truck to fairly close to your amps. There are a few options there. You can route through the firewall on either side of the truck. One hole is behind the battery and another is on the drivers side easily visible. Other route that I use is going under the truck through the door kick plate supports.
-Mount the fused power distribution block inside the truck and then connect that 0/1 power wire to it.
- Connect the 4 gauge power wire to the other side of the power distribution block and route it to the amplifier.
- Mount the ground distribution block and connect the 4 gauge ground from it to the ground on the amp.
-You then need to route the 0/1 ground wire to the ground distribution block and the other end will need to go to a solid ground point. I recommend grounding to the frame or using the seat bolts. Which ever you prefer. You'll need some 0/1 gauge ring terminals there.
-Cut about 10 inches off the battery end of the 0/1 power wire and insert the inline fuse and connect the short part you cut off to the other side of the inline fuse. That side will connect to the new battery terminal.
-the new terminal will go on the battery. I suggest removing the old battery terminal and installing the new one in its place. So you'll need to cut the wires off the old terminal and transfer them to the new one.
-Route the RCA cables and remote wire from your headunit to the amp.

If i was wanting to do it a cheaper way without having to prepare for an extra amp or more power amp going into my truck what would i need and not need. I got a pretty small budget on my wiring about max of $180. So please tell me what i can take out if you don't mind!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 06:33 PM
  #19  
Bartak1's Avatar
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From: Nebraska
If your only going to be running that amp and not wiring so you can add on later, you will just need a simple 4 gauge amp kit.

You can get everything you need with this kit right here...
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KOL-AK4

The ONLY thing I would change....DONT use the so called 'built in turn on wire' that is in the RCAs. Get some separate wire to use. All you need is about 20 feet of 18 or 16 gauge, whatever you can find.
You can either head to an audio shop or Radio Shack or something, or else Knu also has some of that here....
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=KOL18BL
Its per foot, so if you want 20 feet you will have to put 20 in for quantity.
 
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