Okay so i bought my amp http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s+BXi+606.html and got everything for my sub box set up. Now i need to know the wiring things that i need. I know i need an amp wiring kit. What guage wire am i going to need???
Also to connect the subs to the terminal caps what kind of wire am i going to need??

SO heres the summary
1. Amp Wiring Kit (Guage size/where/what kind)
2. Wiring from Subs to Terminal Caps then TErminal Caps to AMp
3. Anything else i may need!!

How am i supposed to wire the amp to the subs and to the headunit. Im not very good with the vocabulary so please help me out with everything guys. Step by Step detailed. And also give me links to where to order the wires and everything!!

I want to get this project done ASAP!!

Thanks in advance

 

You'll need 4 gauge wires to power that amp. I'd use 12 gauge speaker wire. I recommend knuknoceptz.com for wire. Great stuff and great prices.

Depending on where you mount the amp you'll need between 30 foot of power and maybe 4 foot of ground wire. Both 4 gauge. Also be sure to pick up some fuse blocks with around 60 amp fuses. That's what you NEED.

So...If your planning on adding anything down the road please tell cause this will change everything.

 

Sorry if this will take longer but can you put together a thing on that website with the links because theres going to be plenty of questions that im probably going to need to be answered.

The only thing down the road i will probably add down the road is new speakers and possibly another amp.

Thx

 

Also to add on. Am i going to neeed an amp wiring kit to do this??? Or all those things sepreate. Can you guys put some linkds of the specific wires to get cause it has like 3 sub catagories for each wire and everything. Sorry!!

And,
What kind of wire is going to be hooked up from the sub to the terminal cap, and then terminal cap to amp.

 

First off no way will you need 30feet. you can purchase a standard four gauge wiring kit that comes with 17 or 20ft and that will be more than enough. rca's will obviously be needed to run from the preout of your radio to the input of the amp. 16gauge wire from the amp to the subs should cover it. if in the future you plan to add a four channel you could always just grab a distro block and put that in line. 4 gauge will be able to handle the two amps.
I been a professional car electronics installer for 5+ years. you dont have to take my advice but i have an idea of what im talking about here.

2003 xlt flareside---
Custom built enclosure
jl w3v2
kicker 700.5 5 channel amp
Alpine type R's all around.
Eclipse head unit (till i get my navi)

 

Ok since you may be adding a amp down the road lets plan ahead save you some added work. You might adjust the lengths before you order so measure where you want to route the wires. So plan this out and it's a good thing to order too much wire cause you'd be surprised how short wire can get when you start tucking it away.

Order the following:
0/1 Power Wire - 20 foot
0/1 Ground Wire - 10 foot
4 gauge - 20 foot
4 gauge ground wire - 5 foot
0/1 gauge fuse holder order with 100 amp fuse
power distribution block order with same size fuses as in your amps
ground distribution block
Battery Terminals
12 gauge Speaker Wire
RCA Cables 6 meter

plus any light gauge wire to run as a remote turn on lead between the headunit and the amp.

Here's how it's meant to go together:


-The 0/1 power wire will need to be routed from the battery to inside the truck to fairly close to your amps. There are a few options there. You can route through the firewall on either side of the truck. One hole is behind the battery and another is on the drivers side easily visible. Other route that I use is going under the truck through the door kick plate supports.
-Mount the fused power distribution block inside the truck and then connect that 0/1 power wire to it.
- Connect the 4 gauge power wire to the other side of the power distribution block and route it to the amplifier.
- Mount the ground distribution block and connect the 4 gauge ground from it to the ground on the amp.
-You then need to route the 0/1 ground wire to the ground distribution block and the other end will need to go to a solid ground point. I recommend grounding to the frame or using the seat bolts. Which ever you prefer. You'll need some 0/1 gauge ring terminals there.
-Cut about 10 inches off the battery end of the 0/1 power wire and insert the inline fuse and connect the short part you cut off to the other side of the inline fuse. That side will connect to the new battery terminal.
-the new terminal will go on the battery. I suggest removing the old battery terminal and installing the new one in its place. So you'll need to cut the wires off the old terminal and transfer them to the new one.
-Route the RCA cables and remote wire from your headunit to the amp.

You can do it cheaper but down the road when you add that second amp or upgrade to bigger or more amps you'll be glad you went this route. This will gjust give you a ideal of what you need. But I would recommend getting the wire from Knu as I have yet to see anything remotely as good in quality.


I'm a professional Aircraft Avionics and Communications technician for 15 years on some of the most advanced aircraft in the US inventory, home and auto electronics installation and circuit level repair with my dad for 16 years who has 50 years experience, and solo car and home audio and security for 19 years.

"you dont have to take my advice but i have an idea of what im talking about here."

 

Okay probably the last question. What kind of wire is going from the subwoofer itself to the terminal caps that i have installed on the box.

 

That will be that 12 gauge speaker wire. You'll need to find some female terminal spades. Try wal-mart or anyplace that sells autoparts or home improvement stores. outside the speaker box you'll run more 12 gauge speaker wire from the box to the amp. you won't need any terminals there.

 

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=3371478


Bought that for the speaker wires to the sub box just to get the subs finally installed in the box like i have been waiting forever.
That fuse holder is out of stock and on other sites i see a StreetWires one or w/e. Is that good enough or should i wait for that exact fuse holder. Thanks

 

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/produ...uct_id=3371478


Bought that for the speaker wires to the sub box just to get the subs finally installed in the box like i have been waiting forever.
That fuse holder is out of stock and on other sites i see a StreetWires one or w/e. Is that good enough or should i wait for that exact fuse holder. Thanks

 

unless your system in total is going to be over 24-2600 watts you will have no need for 0 gauge wire. It's more expensive and hardly ever neccesary. 4 gauge can run up to roughly 2500watts. and its alot easier to run than 0. when you get your distribution block make sure it has 4 gauge input and 2 four gauge outs and you'll be fine. brand is always a matter of opinion. theres a ton to chose from. monster n tsunami make good wiring as well as the other brand mentioned above. but as i said unless you intend on running an exceptional amount of power (wich hifonics won't produce) 4 gauge is perfect. if you want to be safe and plan for a larger system in the future you can run 0. but dont go buying 20ft of 4 gauge on top of that.

 

you can get any brand of fuse holder. Waterproof ones are the type you want since this will be in the engine compartment. Streetwires, Tsunami, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker, all make good one. Check ebay for some good prices.

That wire will work but it's got a low strand count compared to the knu wire plus the Knu was about half the cost and triple the quality.

 

HALF that is pushing it on 4 gauge.

 

Anywho, as Impact has said, definatley take a look at Knu. Great quality stuff at a dang good price.

I planned on using all Knu wiring (power/speaker/RCA) untill I found a Kicker 1/0 power kit on ebay for 90 bucks. Great quality like the Knu stuff, and I dont think you could piece together a kit like it for that amount of money. F'n awsome kit. I cant remember how much power wire comes with it (I think its 20 feet) but I used all of it except for about 1.5 feet in my regular cab. Im sure you could make it go further, but like Impact said again, just depends how good you want to hide it and how pretty you want it to lool Just another option for you to consider. Cant go wrong either way though.

 

4 gauge is rated at 2400watts.. but definatly agree that knu is i great price some of the cheapest, quality ones i've seen