I have a 2007 under seat lincoln LT with audiophile. the ampand sub are in a box under the rear seat.

I saw a new box from supercrewsounds that will hold 2 8" or 2 10" subs that replaces the current factory box. i can find room for an amp as well.

Does the cable going to the factory audiophile amp in the enclosure have all the wires i will need to hook into a new amp? and then to run 2 10" subs? will i need to run a separate power line? do i want a 1 or 2 channel amp if i am only going to power a sub? thanks!!

i didn't think the stock amp did anything but power the sub unless i am wrong.

 

I would like to know as well.

 

please see my gallery for pictures of the stock audiophile sub and amp. i have pictures of the wiring to the amp and wonder what each of these 5 wires most likely does? and then there are 4 wires going from the amp to the sub, why 4 wires to 1 sub?

i want to use the 5 wires to the amp to run a new amp with a new subwoofer. i know i will need a new power cable, but what do the 5 wires to the amp do, and couldn't they plug into another new amp?

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?num=12407

 

bump for hopeful response, is there no one out there who has utilized any of the existing the factory audiophile wires running to the stock under seat amp and sub?? see my gallery link above for details on the exact wires in my truck.. thanks!!

 

There has to be a color code around here. The 4 wires are more than likely going to the dual voice coil OEM sub. You could pull the sub and verify this, but it doesn't really matter. All you need to find out is which of the wires going to the OEM amp are the signal wires. I wouldn't use the power and ground as they are not large enough to handle a better amp.

 

yeah, what i'm thinking is there should be a power and ground, and 2 voice wires, then maybe the 5th could be for the signal to start the amp?

 

Yes. A remote start, a ground, a power, and a + and - signal from the HU. You only want to use the remote start, and the + and - signal. Run your power and ground with your own 4-8 gauge wire depending on how big of amp. A 250 watt amp would be fine with 8 gauge IMO>

 

The wire harness going in to the amp should be: power, ground, remote turn on, audio (will be 2 wires for this). You will definitely want to run a dedicated power cable from the battery and separate ground close to where ever you put the new amp. If you are using the factory head unit you can tie in to the audio signals and the remote turn on. If your new amp has high level inputs then you will not need a high level to low level converter (speaker level to RCA). I have been searching for a color code for this wire harness and I can not find one, it has to be out there somewhere. You might try crutchfield or metra and ask them if they have an amp harness (I doubt it though as I didn't see any their websites) but they should have a color code for these. You might also try it from the other end and see if you can find a color code for your head unit as all these signals will be coming from it.

The wires going to the sub will be for dual voice coil. You can verify this be removing the sub and if all 4 wires go to the sub then it is a dual voice coil sub (which is the only thing that makes sense to have 4 wires going to one sub).

If I find a wire code for you I will post it. It's out there somewhere. If you are feeling adventurous you can always just use a volt/ohm meter to check everything.

1) Find a good grounding point on truck and connect meter ground probe to it.
2) With radio off, probe wires with other meter probe. The power wire should show 12V and all others 0V.
3) With radio on the remote wire should now show 12V as well
4) Ground should show 0V or close to it.

This should now give you which ones are power, ground, and remote and the other 2 would be your audio signals that are amplified. I would get a fine tip probe and this way you don't even have to strip back any of the jacket just stick it in the connector.

 

i'm 50% into my amp install. I have the dual 10" supercrew box with two 10" punch stage 2 subs. the OEM audiophile amp jack under the rear seat has 5 wires, so i tested them and found the Power, Ground, and Remote Wire, as well as the 2 signal wires.

My problem is that my amp has low level RCA inputs and high level inputs. If i only have 2 wires for audio signal from the OEM audiophile receiver that were going to the OEM underseat amp, then those MUST be low level audio(bass) lines. Otherwise if they were high level, there would be a positive and a negative for each left and right signal..

so, what i need to do is to figure out how to take a single wire, and connect it to a single RCA jack? the RCA jack wire has two wires inside of it.. can i just splice all together, or do i need to include, or exclude one of the two RCA wires inside the cable??

 

upon further digging into the OEM harness to the OEM audiophile amp, i was right there were two low level input wires, as well as a power, ground and remote wire.. but there was also an unused, but included deep in the OEM taped wire loom, an unshielded silver wire. this wire was taped off inside the loom, but I am guessing that if I used it as the negative for the low level positive wires, i can then connect my two RCA jacks to them for the new amp. so i would take one low level positive wire, and hook it to the inside core of an RCA plug, and then use the silver wire for th outside negative RCA plug. i can do this for both low level positive wires, and then end up with two new RCA low level input wires to the new amp!!??

i wish i could see an upclose picture of the wires coming out of the back of my 2007 audiophile with navigation head unit.. then i could be sure what is going on..!! but i don't want to dig into the ash to remove the head unit, that sounds like a pita..

 

i wish i could see an upclose picture of the wires coming out of the back of my 2007 audiophile with navigation head unit.. then i could be sure what is going on..!! but i don't want to dig into the ash to remove the head unit, that sounds like a pita..[/QUOTE]


forget that, i just pulled off the trim piece, and looked at the back of the HU and the other silver thing below it, there is not a single wire back there that is the same color as anything coming out of the OEM wire loom under the rear seat to the OEM amp/sub..

 

turns out my remote signal wire is only around 8v... not enough to switch on the amp! when i touched another 12v source wire to the remote signal input on the amp, it did turn on,,, and maybe i could figure out a switchable, or insert a switch into a power line and turn on and off the new amp manually, no big problem... so now i have my power problem figured out.

but, i still can't get any sound to the speakers.. i tried the low level input wires from the old oem rear seat amp harness, the + & - signal wires.. tried to hook them to RCA plugs in all different configurations, and nothing... is there any way i can boost the low level input signal and then run it to the amp? is there a low level signal booster box available for sale??

did anyone have any problem with the voltage in your remote signal wires too??

i have a 2 channel amp, and hooked up the subs, one to each channels + and - terminals.. maybe i should connect them differently??

i ended up ordering a big new mono amp too, so when that arrives i can try to see if it works...

 

i fixed in now!!!

finally figured out that my dual subs are 8ohm each, but my amp is a 4ohm dual channel.. so what i had to do was hook my subs up in parallel, and run it to a bridged output on the amp.. so that makes it all work awesome now!!! wow, stupid wiring was screwing me up the whole time.

i still need to find a switched 12v source for the remote, as the OEM remote line is too low of a voltage to kick my amp on.. but this is an easy fix now...

 

Did you ever fix this? Pictures?