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Old 03-19-2016, 09:27 AM
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Failed Inspection 2010 5.4 Flex

So the powers that be failed me today at Inspection. No OBD codes pop up but according to their system, the following were an issue:


Evap System: Not Ready
O2 Sensors: Not ready
02 sensor heaters: Not ready


Could there be causing my occasional rough idle and stalling? It just so happens the idle/sputter issue was occurring on the line as they were testing.
 

Last edited by tower06; 03-19-2016 at 10:10 AM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:45 AM
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What engine and what year?
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
What engine and what year?
2010 5.4 Flex
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 10:52 AM
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What state and how many miles on your engine? O2 heaters not ready sounds like you have bad O2 sensors but I'm not an expert. O2 sensors not working would definitely throw your fuel mixture off and could easily explain why you engine burbles and misses. YOU NEED to get service manual if you want to try to fix this yourself. And a REAL service manual from Ford, not a chilton's POS. SM will explain how to check each sensor and explain what they do.

Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!

Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
 

Last edited by joe51; 03-19-2016 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by joe51
What state and how many miles on your engine? O2 heaters not ready sounds like you have bad O2 sensors but I'm not an expert. O2 sensors not working would definitely throw your fuel mixture off and could easily explain why you engine burbles and misses. YOU NEED to get service manual if you want to try to fix this yourself. And a REAL service manual from Ford, not a chilton's POS. SM will explain how to check each sensor and explain what they do.

Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!

Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
In New Jersey. The truck has 83k on it. Odd thing is it throws no codes when I plug into the OBD port. I checked before and after going to DMV and failing. I have the report from DMV, and it shows no codes, only the not ready status under the OBD System- Readiness Status read out section.
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:25 AM
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Very strange. The only thing that I can suggest is that perhaps the reader that you're using doesn't show "pending codes". Other than that I have no idea.
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:38 PM
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Those are not fault codes, they are "not ready" codes meaning the on-board diagnostics have not yet successfully run. They are engineered into OBDII systems to keep twits from resetting the check engine light and then running down to the emissions testing place to try and get it to pass before the light comes on.

The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.

If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.

Could there be causing my occasional rough idle and stalling? It just so happens the idle/sputter issue was occurring on the line as they were testing.
O2 sensors will NOT cause that symptom.
 

Last edited by projectSHO89; 03-19-2016 at 12:43 PM.

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Old 03-19-2016, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by projectSHO89
Those are not fault codes, they are "not ready" codes meaning the on-board diagnostics have not yet successfully run. They are engineered into OBDII systems to keep twits from resetting the check engine light and then running down to the emissions testing place to try and get it to pass before the light comes on.

The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.

If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.



O2 sensors will NOT cause that symptom.
I actually had the battery disconnected last weekend when I replaced the blower in my heated/cooled seat. How long does it usually take to get back to normal?
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:57 PM
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Usually a few days, but it can take a lot longer for the drive cycles to meet all the parameters.

http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle

http://www.aa1car.com/library/obd_monitor_not_ready.htm
 
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by tower06
I actually had the battery disconnected last weekend when I replaced the blower in my heated/cooled seat. How long does it usually take to get back to normal?

It varies.

Drive it a few days and then check the monitors again. EVAP is usually the PITA to get to run, especially if it's below 45F outside. You didn't say where you are so we don't know if you're in Miami, FL or International Falls, MN.

Most jurisdictions allow one or more "incomplete" monitors and will still give a "pass". Check your local regulations so you know what you actually have to do.

If you drive for a week or two and several of the monitors (except EVAP) refuse to run, you have a "mild" fault that isn't severe enough to set a fault code but is still keeping the monitor(s) from executing. You'll need someone who actually knows what they're doing to look at it and figure our what's wrong.
 

Last edited by projectSHO89; 03-19-2016 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:12 PM
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Post #5 says New Jersey. I believe they only allow one readiness flag.

Links on the best ways to try to force the drive cycle without a Ford dealership scan tool are in post #9.
 



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