Failed Inspection
#1
Failed Inspection 2010 5.4 Flex
So the powers that be failed me today at Inspection. No OBD codes pop up but according to their system, the following were an issue:
Evap System: Not Ready
O2 Sensors: Not ready
02 sensor heaters: Not ready
Could there be causing my occasional rough idle and stalling? It just so happens the idle/sputter issue was occurring on the line as they were testing.
Evap System: Not Ready
O2 Sensors: Not ready
02 sensor heaters: Not ready
Could there be causing my occasional rough idle and stalling? It just so happens the idle/sputter issue was occurring on the line as they were testing.
Last edited by tower06; 03-19-2016 at 10:10 AM.
#4
What state and how many miles on your engine? O2 heaters not ready sounds like you have bad O2 sensors but I'm not an expert. O2 sensors not working would definitely throw your fuel mixture off and could easily explain why you engine burbles and misses. YOU NEED to get service manual if you want to try to fix this yourself. And a REAL service manual from Ford, not a chilton's POS. SM will explain how to check each sensor and explain what they do.
Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!
Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!
Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
Last edited by joe51; 03-19-2016 at 10:54 AM.
#5
What state and how many miles on your engine? O2 heaters not ready sounds like you have bad O2 sensors but I'm not an expert. O2 sensors not working would definitely throw your fuel mixture off and could easily explain why you engine burbles and misses. YOU NEED to get service manual if you want to try to fix this yourself. And a REAL service manual from Ford, not a chilton's POS. SM will explain how to check each sensor and explain what they do.
Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!
Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
Glad I'm not in one of the **** states that requires that nonsense any more. It's one of the big reasons that I left Ca and Va and moved back to the Free State of Florida!
Edit: I did ask Have you checked for OBD codes yet? but I see that you did and that there were no codes. That's ODD! Did someone clear them shortly before the tests? Otherwise they should have shown up, at least as pending.
#7
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
Posts: 7,247
Likes: 0
Received 104 Likes
on
97 Posts
Those are not fault codes, they are "not ready" codes meaning the on-board diagnostics have not yet successfully run. They are engineered into OBDII systems to keep twits from resetting the check engine light and then running down to the emissions testing place to try and get it to pass before the light comes on.
The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.
If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.
O2 sensors will NOT cause that symptom.
The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.
If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.
Could there be causing my occasional rough idle and stalling? It just so happens the idle/sputter issue was occurring on the line as they were testing.
Last edited by projectSHO89; 03-19-2016 at 12:43 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Those are not fault codes, they are "not ready" codes meaning the on-board diagnostics have not yet successfully run. They are engineered into OBDII systems to keep twits from resetting the check engine light and then running down to the emissions testing place to try and get it to pass before the light comes on.
The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.
If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.
O2 sensors will NOT cause that symptom.
The two most common reasons for the presence of incomplete monitors are that the battery was recently disconnected or some twit with a code reader/scanner reset the emissions system memory (ie, "cleared" or "reset" the codes or the check engine light). If so, the vehicle simply needs to be driven normally for a while, usually a few days, and the on-board monitors will execute.
If neither apply, then a recent vehicle history would be a good idea. Include details about the last time the battery was disconnected or the PCM was reset. While you're at it, go check fuse F23 in the under-hood fuse box. If it's blown or otherwise not supplying constant power to the PCM when the key is OFF, the PCM will automatically reset its memory every time you park the vehcile and shut it off for more than a few minutes leading to the same set of symptoms.
O2 sensors will NOT cause that symptom.
#9
Usually a few days, but it can take a lot longer for the drive cycles to meet all the parameters.
http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle
http://www.aa1car.com/library/obd_monitor_not_ready.htm
http://repairpal.com/how-to-perform-a-basic-drive-cycle
http://www.aa1car.com/library/obd_monitor_not_ready.htm
#10
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
Posts: 7,247
Likes: 0
Received 104 Likes
on
97 Posts
It varies.
Drive it a few days and then check the monitors again. EVAP is usually the PITA to get to run, especially if it's below 45F outside. You didn't say where you are so we don't know if you're in Miami, FL or International Falls, MN.
Most jurisdictions allow one or more "incomplete" monitors and will still give a "pass". Check your local regulations so you know what you actually have to do.
If you drive for a week or two and several of the monitors (except EVAP) refuse to run, you have a "mild" fault that isn't severe enough to set a fault code but is still keeping the monitor(s) from executing. You'll need someone who actually knows what they're doing to look at it and figure our what's wrong.
Last edited by projectSHO89; 03-19-2016 at 06:18 PM.
#11