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Ford Ecoboost Engine Carbon Deposits: What You Need to Know

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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 01:53 PM
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Ford Ecoboost Engine Carbon Deposits: What You Need to Know

Here is my latest video on the Ecoboost Engines and carbon buildup. I quickly sum up what I was trying to say in my popular video- New Warning to All Ecoboost Owners. I go over what we are seeing at the dealers and what you can do to prevent any excess buildup of carbon as well as the latest information from Ford. This one video should answer most if not all of your questions pertaining to this issue.

*****Note- I mention a catch can WILL void your warranty if added, I want to be more clear on this and state that a Catch Can MAY void your warranty. It is all up to your servicing Dealer and the Ford Field Reps on a case by case basis.******

 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 02:17 PM
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So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?

On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"

Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 03:29 PM
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Okay, in regards to something he said about the motor oil. Let's have a little classroom time here so we all understand what he's saying although he's not entirely correct. There are two tests that are relevant here, they are the TEOST and NOACK. TEOST means Thermo-oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test. It has to do with how many high heat deposits are formed by a specific oil. Not many of the oil makers will give you this info so I'm going to call it irrelevant but you need to know it's out there. API says deposits of 30mg or less across the test. If you want to look up the criteria of the test, research ASTM D6335.

Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.

Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5

So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Labnerd
Okay, in regards to something he said about the motor oil. Let's have a little classroom time here so we all understand what he's saying although he's not entirely correct. There are two tests that are relevant here, they are the TEOST and NOACK. TEOST means Thermo-oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test. It has to do with how many high heat deposits are formed by a specific oil. Not many of the oil makers will give you this info so I'm going to call it irrelevant but you need to know it's out there. API says deposits of 30mg or less across the test. If you want to look up the criteria of the test, research ASTM D6335.

Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.

Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5

So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
Fantastic!

Would you happen to have any data on the factory fill (MC semi-synth 5w-30)?

Thanks
MGD
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 03:38 PM
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Yeah but you won't like it-13.8 for MC 5w-30.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 04:34 PM
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Awesome Labnerd thanks for the info! I just learned something new!

I saw you put Pennzoil Ultra on the list .... is the platinum that he mentions to use in the video any different of a rating?

That's wonderful with the MC ..... NOT!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2015 | 06:12 PM
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Pennzoil Platinum -9.3
Ultra is still the best in an EB engine unless you don't mind getting spendy and put Amsoil in it.

Let's not get out of perspective here. The MC oils are still great and a great value. It's not the oil here, it's the engine. MC oils are still a great bargain for any other engine except any direct injected engine. But then I said 5 years ago that these DI engines are going to be a problem child. They're proving me right so far.
 

Last edited by Labnerd; Jan 14, 2015 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 01:32 AM
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Somehow I knew the Pennzoil Ultra was going to be an excellent oil for my EC. From all of the reading I have done, I came down with the oil being made from a component of its purest form...Natural gas.
It just felt right to me for some reason.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2015 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by aussiekeeper
Somehow I knew the Pennzoil Ultra was going to be an excellent oil for my EC. From all of the reading I have done, I came down with the oil being made from a component of its purest form...Natural gas.
It just felt right to me for some reason.
Only as long as yall STOP adding moly to it

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly


MGD
 
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Old Jan 16, 2015 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Just read Labnerds post, thanks for the memory joust MGD. I'll be using straight P/U from now on.
 

Last edited by aussiekeeper; Jan 16, 2015 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 11:08 PM
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As someone who currently has no location to do my own oil changes, is there any place that will use Pennzoil Ultra for oil changes? Would a Ford dealer use this if asked (do they have anything else on hand other than MC oil)?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 11:20 PM
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Ask around your small local independent shops - there are a few here who will do oil changes with your oil and filter and just charge you labor. That's what I do - the shop is owned by a former Ford dealership tech and he charges me 20 bucks for oil change and lube.

Ford dealers generally have MC oil in bottles and some random brand of bulk oil in barrels.

Some quick oil change places MIGHT carry Pennzoil Ultra - they all carry a selection of bottled oil in addition to their bulk barrels. Gotta watch what they use for filters though, most use cheap generics.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Pockets
So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?

On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"

Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
For the average consumer I would stick with the 5.0l. With the Ecoboost come complexity in parts and diagnosis. All for mileage that is not that far off from the 5.0L.
 
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Pockets
So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?

On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"

Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
If you have any concerns with deposit buildup on valves, purchase a 5.0L engine. My advice is to use quality fuel brands (Conoco, Chevron, Shell, Phillips 66, QT) and change your oil every 6,000 miles.
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Labnerd
Yeah but you won't like it-13.8 for MC 5w-30.
Great information, Labnerd. Thanks for posting this stuff...
 
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