Ford Ecoboost Engine Carbon Deposits: What You Need to Know
Ford Ecoboost Engine Carbon Deposits: What You Need to Know
Here is my latest video on the Ecoboost Engines and carbon buildup. I quickly sum up what I was trying to say in my popular video- New Warning to All Ecoboost Owners. I go over what we are seeing at the dealers and what you can do to prevent any excess buildup of carbon as well as the latest information from Ford. This one video should answer most if not all of your questions pertaining to this issue.
*****Note- I mention a catch can WILL void your warranty if added, I want to be more clear on this and state that a Catch Can MAY void your warranty. It is all up to your servicing Dealer and the Ford Field Reps on a case by case basis.******
*****Note- I mention a catch can WILL void your warranty if added, I want to be more clear on this and state that a Catch Can MAY void your warranty. It is all up to your servicing Dealer and the Ford Field Reps on a case by case basis.******
So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
Okay, in regards to something he said about the motor oil. Let's have a little classroom time here so we all understand what he's saying although he's not entirely correct. There are two tests that are relevant here, they are the TEOST and NOACK. TEOST means Thermo-oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test. It has to do with how many high heat deposits are formed by a specific oil. Not many of the oil makers will give you this info so I'm going to call it irrelevant but you need to know it's out there. API says deposits of 30mg or less across the test. If you want to look up the criteria of the test, research ASTM D6335.
Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.
Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5
So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.
Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5
So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
Okay, in regards to something he said about the motor oil. Let's have a little classroom time here so we all understand what he's saying although he's not entirely correct. There are two tests that are relevant here, they are the TEOST and NOACK. TEOST means Thermo-oxidation Engine Oil Simulation Test. It has to do with how many high heat deposits are formed by a specific oil. Not many of the oil makers will give you this info so I'm going to call it irrelevant but you need to know it's out there. API says deposits of 30mg or less across the test. If you want to look up the criteria of the test, research ASTM D6335.
Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.
Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5
So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
Then we have the NOACK test which is the oils evaporation loss due to high heat. This is the main concern here. The test is run for 1 hour at 250C which is 482F. API says the oil can lose up to 15% of it's volume due to high heat. To research all of the test criteria research ASTM 5800.
Obviously if the oil doesn't evaporate it won't leave deposits on the intake valves via the PCV. So I ran thru my data sheets real quick and here are the specs for oils you may want to consider. I will list the name of the oil followed by a number which is the percentage of lost oil due to evaporation. The lower the number the better.
Pennzoil Ultra-6.6 ***deposits of 8mg
Quaker Sate Ultimate- 8.8
Mobil One-10.1
Kendall with Titanium- 10.3
Castrol Edge- 11.1
Amsoil Signature 7.6
All of the above are synthetics. Not all synthetics rate that high and some exceed conventional oils. Here are some blends that rate higher than some of the better known synthetics.
Max Life Blend-10.5
AC Delco Blend-7.9
Super Tech Dexos- 10.5
So you don't necessarily need a synthetic to avoid the carbon issue, just an oil with low NOACK. Saying use a synthetic doesn't qualify. To give you a better idea, Royal Purple comes in at 10.9, Mobil Super Synthetic comes in at 11.6, and Lucas comes in 13.8, all synthetic oils, all in 5w-30. Hope this is helpful info.
Would you happen to have any data on the factory fill (MC semi-synth 5w-30)?
Thanks
MGD
Awesome Labnerd thanks for the info! I just learned something new!
I saw you put Pennzoil Ultra on the list .... is the platinum that he mentions to use in the video any different of a rating?
That's wonderful with the MC ..... NOT!
I saw you put Pennzoil Ultra on the list .... is the platinum that he mentions to use in the video any different of a rating?
That's wonderful with the MC ..... NOT!
Pennzoil Platinum -9.3
Ultra is still the best in an EB engine unless you don't mind getting spendy and put Amsoil in it.
Let's not get out of perspective here. The MC oils are still great and a great value. It's not the oil here, it's the engine. MC oils are still a great bargain for any other engine except any direct injected engine. But then I said 5 years ago that these DI engines are going to be a problem child. They're proving me right so far.
Ultra is still the best in an EB engine unless you don't mind getting spendy and put Amsoil in it.
Let's not get out of perspective here. The MC oils are still great and a great value. It's not the oil here, it's the engine. MC oils are still a great bargain for any other engine except any direct injected engine. But then I said 5 years ago that these DI engines are going to be a problem child. They're proving me right so far.
Last edited by Labnerd; Jan 14, 2015 at 06:16 PM.
Trending Topics
Somehow I knew the Pennzoil Ultra was going to be an excellent oil for my EC. From all of the reading I have done, I came down with the oil being made from a component of its purest form...Natural gas.
It just felt right to me for some reason.
It just felt right to me for some reason.



https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly

MGD
Only as long as yall STOP adding moly to it 


https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly

MGD



https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly
https://www.f150online.com/forums/v6...highlight=moly

MGD
Last edited by aussiekeeper; Jan 16, 2015 at 09:38 AM.
As someone who currently has no location to do my own oil changes, is there any place that will use Pennzoil Ultra for oil changes? Would a Ford dealer use this if asked (do they have anything else on hand other than MC oil)?
Ask around your small local independent shops - there are a few here who will do oil changes with your oil and filter and just charge you labor. That's what I do - the shop is owned by a former Ford dealership tech and he charges me 20 bucks for oil change and lube.
Ford dealers generally have MC oil in bottles and some random brand of bulk oil in barrels.
Some quick oil change places MIGHT carry Pennzoil Ultra - they all carry a selection of bottled oil in addition to their bulk barrels. Gotta watch what they use for filters though, most use cheap generics.
Ford dealers generally have MC oil in bottles and some random brand of bulk oil in barrels.
Some quick oil change places MIGHT carry Pennzoil Ultra - they all carry a selection of bottled oil in addition to their bulk barrels. Gotta watch what they use for filters though, most use cheap generics.
So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
So what's the deal .... should I be looking into an Ecoboost or should I go with the 5.0 on a new 2015? What's your feeling on it. Which would you get?
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.
On a side note I was looking at quad copter videos and you came up in one and I was like "Hey I know that guy!"
Keep the vids coming! Thank you for your time.





