2010 SCREW: Time to change the spark plugs
2010 SCREW: Time to change the spark plugs
I hit 90K and took it in for the "required" maintenance. After getting home, I reviewed the bill and found they did not change the plugs. I spoke with the service manager, who told me that it did not need to be done until 120K. I would like to put some aftermarket plugs in but I am not sure what to use. Does anyone have a recommendation?
You are probably right Bluejay. I am thinking that a little better performance is out there, even if it means having to change them more often. To me it is like any other modfication. If I can get a small increase in power and fuel economy for a couple of bucks extra, why not do it?
Remember, most of the claims made by aftermarket plug manufacturers are pretty much BS. When they say that their plug will "dramatically improve engine performance," what they really mean is that they will - if your current plugs are totally shot. Truth be told, any new plug would do the same thing.
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I changed mine at 40k worrying they would seize up in the heads. I chose the NGK Iridium replacements. I am happy with them NGK is a quality plug and Iridium is the hardest stuff on earth for plugs.
evidently you didn't realize+research that you had the revised 3v heads....
It has been a while since my original post but I finally got a set of Motorcraft plugs and changed them out yesterday. Here is what I learned;
First, my dealer wanted $480.00 to do the job. The service manager first tried to tell me they were two piece plugs and after being told to look again, came back with $480.00. She said it was going to take two hours. Apparently, they charge $200.00 an hour labor or they have a $200.00 shop fee. It took me 2.5 hours. I paid around $8.00 a plug, so I have some money left over for beer.
You will need a 7mm socket to unbolt the coil pack and a 14mm spark plug socket for the plugs. Do yourself a favor and find one before you start the job. I loosened the first plug and quickly figured out the plug won't come out, then went in search of the proper tool. I spent most of the morning going to parts stores and even Sears with no joy.
If no such animal exists, get a piece of gas line, I think 5/16 I.D. about 8" long. Once you loosen a plug, push the hose onto the spark plug and pull it out of the hole. Reverse the process and pray that the plug threads. It worked for me until the last two, then they wouldn't start. So, I cut about a 1/4" piece of hose and jammed it into the 14mm socket. Be careful not to push the plug to far into the hose and socket because the hose comes out of the socket and stays on the plug. Then you need to remove the plug and start over.
I did not have to remove any interference except I did find that it was easier for one plug to unplug the electrical connector for the fuel injector nearest the plug I was working on.
It is a long reach to the back plugs. I am 6'3" and needed to stand on a two rung step ladder. Be sure to use fender covers because you will be dragging your belt buckle all over the fender.
The condition of the plugs was very good. I would not have guessed they had 96K. None showed any wear and I checked the gap for each as I pulled them out. They were all perfect. I think at 180K I am going to check one on each bank and if they look good I will run them for another 20-30K.
Overall it was an easy job and anyone who can modify their truck can change their plugs. Save yourself $400.00.
First, my dealer wanted $480.00 to do the job. The service manager first tried to tell me they were two piece plugs and after being told to look again, came back with $480.00. She said it was going to take two hours. Apparently, they charge $200.00 an hour labor or they have a $200.00 shop fee. It took me 2.5 hours. I paid around $8.00 a plug, so I have some money left over for beer.
You will need a 7mm socket to unbolt the coil pack and a 14mm spark plug socket for the plugs. Do yourself a favor and find one before you start the job. I loosened the first plug and quickly figured out the plug won't come out, then went in search of the proper tool. I spent most of the morning going to parts stores and even Sears with no joy.
If no such animal exists, get a piece of gas line, I think 5/16 I.D. about 8" long. Once you loosen a plug, push the hose onto the spark plug and pull it out of the hole. Reverse the process and pray that the plug threads. It worked for me until the last two, then they wouldn't start. So, I cut about a 1/4" piece of hose and jammed it into the 14mm socket. Be careful not to push the plug to far into the hose and socket because the hose comes out of the socket and stays on the plug. Then you need to remove the plug and start over.
I did not have to remove any interference except I did find that it was easier for one plug to unplug the electrical connector for the fuel injector nearest the plug I was working on.
It is a long reach to the back plugs. I am 6'3" and needed to stand on a two rung step ladder. Be sure to use fender covers because you will be dragging your belt buckle all over the fender.
The condition of the plugs was very good. I would not have guessed they had 96K. None showed any wear and I checked the gap for each as I pulled them out. They were all perfect. I think at 180K I am going to check one on each bank and if they look good I will run them for another 20-30K.
Overall it was an easy job and anyone who can modify their truck can change their plugs. Save yourself $400.00.
Thanks for the info. I sold my 2010 to a friend of mine and it has 109K on it now, so plugs are not to far away. Good info to know, thanks.
Since he is not all that mechanical, I will be the one doing it for him.
Since he is not all that mechanical, I will be the one doing it for him.






