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09-13 fuel door cover spring repair

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  #31  
Old 12-13-2013, 09:05 PM
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Thanks for the great post!

I registered just to say thank you! I was googling around for a part number or diagram and I found your great post. It was clear and easy to follow. Fixed it in about 20 minutes. Saved some bucks! Thanks again.
 
  #32  
Old 12-16-2013, 08:28 PM
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Like so many, I registered to say Thanks! Just got my 2010 F150 last Tuesday (Monday today) and noticed the gas door was 'off'.
Sounds like an easy enough fix when it warms up a little.
So, now we know how to get it out, anyone know of any after market 'upgrades' to the filler door? Not looking for those 'tape one pretty parts'. Want to replace it with something better and better looking.
 
  #33  
Old 12-31-2013, 04:00 PM
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one addition

2010 F150: The instructions here are great. My problem was the hinge pin too and I've gotten it fixed. I did one additional thing that I'd like to share to prevent the pin from coming loose again. I heated a heavy pocket knife blade with a lighter and applied the hot edge where the end of the hinge pin comes out of the housing. It took a few times of heating and applying but I eventually got the end of the pin to spread wider than the hole so that the pin doesn't come out again. If you're going to do this, don't apply the flame directly to the pin or you'll risk fusing the pin to the housing. The next time I have to fix it, it will be because one of the cheap plastic spring pins has broken... Thanks for the original instructions. (Ford wants $180 to fix this. I bought the Premium B to B extended warranty and this part is still only covered by the original 3/36 warranty. Crock)
 
  #34  
Old 03-09-2014, 07:39 PM
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I just fixed my fuel door for the second time. This time I took you advice and put a small screw and washer on the bottom of the pin. Thanks for the post and the pictures.
 
  #35  
Old 03-13-2014, 08:44 PM
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All right,

I've reset the darn pin/spring a couple of times, and I told myself that the next time it happens I'm going to devise a fix (I thought of another way to skin the cat).

I pulled the pin, trimmed the sleeve and then drilled a small hole in the end of the pin. I used a cotter type pin from a button off my old Marine Corps uniform button (thank God I kept some uniforms stuff, even though it's over 27 years old!)

Here's the fix (crappy iPhone pics):

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Hope this helps!
 
  #36  
Old 04-18-2014, 10:42 AM
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I am having a lillte trouble with the clips is there a trick to pinching them in. Looks like I will take off the tire and remove some of the side panel bracing to do this.
 
  #37  
Old 04-18-2014, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by rodrigue
I am having a lillte trouble with the clips is there a trick to pinching them in. Looks like I will take off the tire and remove some of the side panel bracing to do this.
You really don't need to do that and will be creating work for yourself. Just get a short fat screwdriver and reach your hand up in there and after you fish around the find the tab, use the screwdriver to depress it. Push out on the unit while you're depressing the tab and it will come out on that end, enough to pull the whole thing free.
 
  #38  
Old 04-18-2014, 10:59 AM
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Ok thanks will give that a try on my lunch hour. Dang short arms LOL.
 
  #39  
Old 04-18-2014, 11:41 AM
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Just keep at it till you feel the tab - once you find it and push it in, you'll be surprised how easy it was. One of those deals that's easy if you know how to do it!
 
  #40  
Old 04-18-2014, 08:57 PM
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New member also saying thanks. Did this today in about 30 min. Due to my short, thick arms I could only get to the lower rear tab. Got a long thin screwdriver in under the housing after loosening the one tab, worked my way up to the upper rear tab and then it came out. Make sure you put a rag under the screwdriver so you don't scratch the paint.

Thanks o all for the great tips.
 
  #41  
Old 06-05-2014, 05:28 PM
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My door spring on my 2011 (33k miles) quit this past weekend. Followed the tips here but had a lot of trouble getting those quick snap tabs to let go. Anyway, I finally persuaded it out and pushed the pin back in plus the mod of adding a washer and cotter pin. Thanks guys...
 
  #42  
Old 06-07-2014, 06:58 AM
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Well, mine just came loose again, just a year after fixing it. I'll give it the permanent fix this time. I can't believe Ford kept using that *****ty design for several years.....really pathetic. I guess GM doesn't have a corner on the FUBAR market.
 
  #43  
Old 06-13-2014, 02:37 PM
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fuel door spring

the fuel door spring broke and eventhough I had the extended warranty it was not covered. You have to buy the whole housing. This is 62.50. well if that isn't bad enough, because you really only need the spring, they want over 120.00 to put it in. thanks to the guy who posted how to remove the housing. I suggest that you do it yourself, like I did. Took me less than 30 minutes
 
  #44  
Old 06-15-2014, 09:22 PM
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Parts?

Where can I find the parts? My spring is definitely broken and no parts store I've talked to has it. They all said to call the dealership who wants $75 for the entire housing. That seems a bit excessive when all I need is a little spring...
 
  #45  
Old 06-17-2014, 10:31 AM
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I know the whole interweb thing is difficult for some so I did a google search and found the assembly for $43.00 free shipping on Amazon.com. It's listed as 04-08 I'm sure you can search for the year you need. The spring is special to the application maybe used else where and a Junk yard, a.k.a. recycling center, might have the ability to perform a cross reference for you. If I bought a brand new unit I would install a cotter pin before installing the whole thing. I posted on here with the washer/screw method. I used what was in my misc. hardware drawer. Any of the suggested mods will cure the ailment. Happy shopping. Of course you can call your local Ford dealer. I'm sure they stock the item. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...%20replacement
 


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