What year and engine do you have?

 

Thread title/topic ... Spark plug replacement instructions 5.4L 2010
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I was not replying to the original poster, we need to make sure this new poster is in fact talking about the exact same year and engine. The way that people hijack old threads around here, you never know.

 

GLC, perhaps you could answer the "why not antiseize the plugs" question. I'm a little curious too. It seems like a good idea on the surface......

 

I'll try. As I understand it, anti seize will provide a false torque reading artificially low, therefore usually torqued too high when tensioned, therefore causing potential for broken plugs, or worse, a stripped out head.

 

Not only that, if you use Motorcraft plugs, they are nickle coated and require no antisieze.

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Sounds like a good reason for not putting the anti-seize on the threads.

I have a 2010 5.4L......anybody know what the torque values are for the spark plugs?

Also, do you recommend replacing the coil boot for each plug? I think they are $10 a piece, for $80 is it worth the value?

 

Thank you for the clarification. Book torque value is 9 ft/lb, I think I'd get them tighter than that - probably at least 15 ft/lb. From what I've read, antiseize is not necessary but a VERY small amount wouldn't hurt and keep it away from the electrodes.

Boots are a lot cheaper than that online, but I don't think they are really necessary if replacing the plugs with the same OEM plugs. Clean them out and regrease them, try not to get any grease on the contact spring.

 

How do you get to the last two plugs on the left bank without removing fuel rails? BTW, How DO you remove the left side fuel rails!! I'm "stop work" waiting on some answers. Thanks