2009 - 2014 F-150

Help: Spongy brakes after new rotors and pads

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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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Help: Spongy brakes after new rotors and pads

Just put on slotted rotors and ceramics pads but I didnt bleed the system. I pushed the pistons in and I guess forced the fluid back into the master cylinder. I looked at the calipers and I guess I missed the bleed screw under the rubber cap.

I test drove the truck and the pedel was increadibly spongy. I brought the truck back, and bled the brakes (and bled them quite a bit) and they are still spongy.

Should I just keep bleeding them until they are firm?

What should I do?

Could I have damaged the master cyl by forcing fluid back to it?
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 10:27 AM
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I don't think you damaged the master. Get your self a bleed resevior tool and rebleed the system.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 12:03 PM
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I Thought a pure ceramic pad had to get quite hot before they perform well.

What kind did you buy?

I doubt the master is damaged. Possible you've introduced some air to the lines unfortunately.

As a side note how many KM's are on your rig? and when you bled the lines what colour was your fluid?

Cheers
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 12:20 PM
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Soft or spongy? I tried this with amazing results --->https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...-resolved.html
 
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cheef
I Thought a pure ceramic pad had to get quite hot before they perform well.

What kind did you buy?

I doubt the master is damaged. Possible you've introduced some air to the lines unfortunately.

As a side note how many KM's are on your rig? and when you bled the lines what colour was your fluid?

Cheers
I bought R1 Concept Premium rotors and PosiQuite Ceramic pads.

I have about 64,000mile on my 09 F150 screw.

Originally Posted by FallenF96
Soft or spongy? I tried this with amazing results --->https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...-resolved.html
Possibly both. There is an initial firm feel that fades out and goes soft... and the pedal will go to the floor if I try hard enough. Stopping was very slow.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2012 | 10:03 AM
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If you did not break loose any brake lines there should not be any air in the lines. I have changed a few sets of brake pads using the same method you did and never have had a problem. After changing them however, I did have to pump the pedal a few times get the pedal feeling normal again. If you sit there and pump them up do they eventually build up pressure?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 11:27 PM
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I think its the pads. Had the same set up on my last truck.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2012 | 11:34 PM
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Ceramic pads take a little bit to get used to.....
 
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Old Jun 22, 2012 | 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by 88racing
Ceramic pads take a little bit to get used to.....
Yeah, but they should not fade to the floor. I'd suspect air in the system somewhere - maybe in the ABS. I believe there's a specific bleeding procedure, it's not just the old school method of bleeding at the calipers. I'd research that and flush/bleed the entire system.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by glc
Yeah, but they should not fade to the floor. I'd suspect air in the system somewhere - maybe in the ABS. I believe there's a specific bleeding procedure, it's not just the old school method of bleeding at the calipers. I'd research that and flush/bleed the entire system.
+1 I belive you are on the mark with the ABS.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 06:21 PM
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kind of hard to see how you introduced air into the system without initially breaking loose the bleeder screws. Might try to bleed the master cylinder before touching the ABS. As far as the adjustment rod is concerned, i dont see how that would firm up the pedal. it would just make it engage sooner. just my 2 cents....

FWIW, I have compressed the caliper cylinders in with a c-clamp all the time when changing out pads and rotors. never had a spongy pedal after...
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
Yeah, but they should not fade to the floor. I'd suspect air in the system somewhere - maybe in the ABS. I believe there's a specific bleeding procedure, it's not just the old school method of bleeding at the calipers. I'd research that and flush/bleed the entire system.
Typically start with furthest corner from master cylinder, that's what I've done in the past. RR, LR, RF and LF.

What colour is your fluid F_ast?

When I did my 95 pathfinder pads I bled the lines and swore I hadn't introduced any air to the system. Took me three times but I got it right in the end and the brakes still work well to this day (friend of a friend bought the truck from me in 2007).

Worth a shot, brake fluid is cheap.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2012 | 10:07 PM
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how far have you actually driven it? You need to break in the brakes. Do about 3-5 medium to hard stop from 50mph on a safe low traffic road.
 
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