Hmmm...

I think you were imagining 33" RIMS, perhaps (and yes, 33" RIMS would definitely be too "gansta" for me)? "Wheels" are the combination of rims and tires together...

 

It's factually called a wheel. No other way around it.
A 'rim' is the outer part of the wheel - it's one of several components.

rim
1>The usually curved or circular border or edge of an object.
2>The circular outer part of a wheel, furthest from the axle.
3>A circular metal structure around which a wheel tire is fitted.

wheel
1>A solid disk or a rigid circular ring connected by spokes to a hub, designed to turn around an axle passed through the center.
2>Something resembling such a disk or ring in appearance or movement or having a wheel as its principal part or characteristic.

That's why you see all manufactures say "wheel" in the name, never rim...

I'm just f*c*ing with ya anyway

 

Well, I think I'm in a bit of a Catch-22 position. If I don't install the leveler, could you truly tell if the 33" will fit WITH them installed when they rub without them?

And if I DO install them before the tires are tested, then I'm stuck with them and can't return them if the tires do still rub.

 

Hehe,

I read the same Dictionary.com results as you did but no where does it distinguish separate components such as rim and tire.

But let's not get wound up on dictionary terms because, even lawyers and lawmakers disagree on the "meanings" of terms so its pointless for us to even broach our own differences of interpretation!

 

i know discount tire will test fit tires before you buy so you can make a decision, so go talk to a shop and have them test fit a set for you.

you should have a general idea after test fitting if they will fit or not even without a level.

 

It so happens that I ordered the tires through Discount Tire and they said they will test install one tire...

 

I've decided to wait until I get a 3" rear block lift kit (2" net lift) and install both front and rear "leveling" kits before I have the tires test fitted.

After further research, I've discovered the tires should fit; it's only the rims with their 4.5" back spacing that may cause rubbing. I'm willing to trim, to a certain point, but I'm not ready for a 6" lift. It's not the money, but in my older age I'm a bit more conservative and I also have to think about my girlfriend, her kids and my family whenever I drive them in my truck (the leveling kits and larger tires already raises the truck about 4-5" I hear).

So I will stick to just a leveling kit for the foreseeable future.

If it appears that I would need to actually cut into sheet metal to prevent rubbing, then I will get different rims (9" wide) and sell off the unused Welds. By installing the leveling kits first before trial fitting, I will know exactly what I need to do...

 

I can tell you for sure that on a 2005 4x4 that combo (10" wheel with that backspacing) will rub bad even trimming metal at the rear of the fenderwell won't get rid of but with trimming mainly when backing up in tight spots. Not sure how much different the 2009-2011 is they seem to fit about the same to me. The other thing is that without aftermarket fender flairs they're gonna stick out rediculous unless that's what u like a ricer look... I had Bushwackers on my 2005 and the tires were about flush with outside of the flairs. It's a nice looking stance once the flairs are on though, but the rubbing sucked always embarrassing at the wrong time and place, lol.

I had same tires, Nitto TGs 30/55R20 on 20x10 Moto Metal 951 with 4.5" backspacing on my 2005.

 

Did you have leveling kit on or stock suspension/ride height?

Regarding flares, from what I've seen on all the truck sites and magazines the vast majority (>90%) don't have flares with oversized tires so i guess I won't look too conspicuous. I got the 20x10 rims initially for a 04 SCrew that I intended to install a 6" lift and 35's. I really don't want my wheels sticking out too much especially with 33's.

Which is why I will install the leveling kits first so when I test fit I can see immediately if the combo will work and look right or not.

 

I had a 2.5" level on the 2005. It's the wheel not the tire at play regarding the need for flares. With that wheel your tires will stick out of the wheel well a good 3". Without flares it will look, ummmm... "southern" for sure. I didn't want flares but felt it was required once I put that wheel/tire combo on. You might want to put the tires on without the level to see how they fit you can jack the front up to see about rubbing you just won't be able to drive it.

 

if you don't want your wheels to stick out you don't want a wheel with 4.5" backspacing, you want something more along the lines of 5.5 and much narrower. your tire is going to stick out past your body a few inches with that wheel.

 

I think a leveling kit and 33's on stock or 8.5" rims are the best option. I also prefer the 1.5" spacers. They lift 2" and are less stress on the front end parts. 2.5" and larger blocks really max out the front end joints. 10" wide wheels also put a lot of extra stress on bearings and joints. But it is your truck to tear up, enjoy.

 

I will be doing net 2" lifts front and rear since this is the only acceptable height I am comfortable with (won't stress front as much as a 3" net front lift would) as I definitely want a moderate lift but nothing over 3", typical with 4"+ crossmember-type lift. Since this is a given, I will wait until the rear 3" blocks arrive and install the lifts before trial fitting the 20x10, even though I'm sure it would stick out too far (Discount Tire will test fit one tire for free so nothing lost in just seeing how they look since I've had them for so long albeit in storage).

I am already searching for 20x9's (more common than 8.5) and they typically have 5.5" backspacing so those should work with perhaps minor trimming.

UPDATE: I have not been able to truly find any 20x9 rims that catch my eye at all. I found a couple 20x9.5; though not much narrower, their 5.25" backspacing seems to suggest they may fit over my 20x10 4.5" backspaced rims.

 

Theres really no reason to go with a 10" wheel with 33" or 35's IMO. 9" works great.
FYI, i installed 33 x 12 x 18 - 5.7 BS & +18 Offset, no rub issues at all. I am getting a level in a few wks just for appearance.

 

It's just that I already have the rims. They've been sitting in storage during the 5 years I didn't have a truck (had an Expedition). I went for the 10" since the 35" tires I was planning on getting were of such a width that I didn't want the tire looking like a fat donut that would be prone to sidewall "rolling"; the 10" would have complimented the tire width nicely.

Anyways, since they're paid for, I would like to get use out of them since they are still brand new.

Still waiting for the rear blocks...