The oil cap on my 2010 F150 4.6L Ford XL Pickup truck engine indicates a 5W – 20W viscosity oil. Can a higher viscosity petroleum oil (10W – 40W, 15W – 40W) be used (safely) in this engine? Would adding a lighter petroleum based oil (in the right mix) like Marvel Mystery Oil be acceptable to obtain a lower viscosity? Could a 5W – 40W Synthetic oil be used safely in this engine? The excessive cost ($87.00) of my last oil/filter change at 6,000 miles clearly indicates a future need for DIY. Finding a source of 5W – 20W oil (Chevron/Havoline) locally is difficult in this isolated region. The nearest Wal-Mart store is 30 miles away (one-way) and they have only one brand (Rotella) of oil (5W – 40W) which is a Synthetic. They do not carry 5W – 20W oil of any brand. I may have to use the Internet to find suitable oil for my truck. Any suggestions of sources for a 5W – 20W oil suitable for this engine would be appreciated. Thanks. Fordman37

 

I was told the tolerances are so close you have to use the recommended oil or it won't pass through oil passages.

 

Any API certified, ILSAC GF-5, 5W20 oil will keep you in good standing with FoMoCo. Walmart carries numerous brands of 5W20 oils. Ask if they can order a case for you. I have used MC Syn Blend 5W20 oil on my '01 F150, '02 Stang GT, '07.5 4.6 2V and my current '11 F150 and '11 Fusion. I alway's use a MC oil filter with every oil change.

Don't forget about auto parts stores and their online websites.

 

I've also found cases of Royal Purple 5W20 on eBay for a decent price.

 

I run motorcraft 5w-20 Syn Blend and I can buy 5qt jugs at wal-mart for 14.75. That makes a pretty cheap oil change, and it is ford oil so they shouldn't complain. I use Motorcraft filters as well, that way if I ever have an engine issue, they can't blame it on poor filters or oil. Besides, its economical as well. I use the same MotorCraft oil and filters on the wife's Escape.

I would not change the viscosity on these trucks at all. The reason is because they build these engines with tight tolerences in the bearings and a thicker oil may not flow correctly. Also, it takes more ponies to turn a thicker oil and you could use a little bit more gas in the process. Stay with the 5w-20. If you want to go full syn, thats cool, but don't change weights of oil, and don't add any additives. That makes the cost go way up, and they don't help a new engine at all. Use those on an old engine that is using oil.

I am not sure where you live, but 87 bucs for an oil change is robbery. I take mine to the Ford dealer and they change my oil and fill all other fluids for 35.

 

Did your dealer tell you that they use Motorcraft or do you specify that's what you want? Just curious because I know lots of dealers that buy bulk oil from the lowest bidder and it is not Motorcraft. Not throwing stones, just asking a question.

 

I just had the oil changed in my wife's '11 Fusion and it was $34.95 + tax at the dealer. You are saying that you get your oil changed in your '10 F150 for $35.00? How many qts are they servicing? All the dealers in my area qoute the LOF's at 5 qts of oil. My new 5.0 takes 7.7 qts. I'm pretty certain it would cost a little more than that using MC Syn Blend and MC FL-500S filter.

My first oil change cost me $14.87 x2 for two 5 qt jugs of MC Syn Blend and $7.99 for an MC oil filter. I purchased the oil at Walmart and the filter at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

$29.74 oil
$ 7.99 filter
$ 3.39 tax
$41.12 total

 

I actually used Mobil 1 Delvac 15W/40 diesel oil in four of my cars for a few years with no adverse affects. Then again I live in Texas. I probably wouldn't have run that grade of oil if I lived in Alaska.

 

What "isolated region" are you in?

You can always buy Amsoil online, they ship anywhere.

 

If you'll notice, there is a section that you skipped when applying for membership on this website that's called your profile. If you had filled it out, it would have made this a much easier question to answer.....but you didn't, so.


If you have the 2V 4.6 engine, you can use a 5w-30 and not hurt a thing. But once you've run the thicker viscosity oil for several changes, it's not the best idea to go back. As the engine "breaks in" it wears according to the viscosity oil used. It does that via the wedge of oil that forms on the front side of the torque stress at the crankshaft/rods. That's how lubrication works in that area. After using the heavier oil, wear will accelerate to accommodate the heavier oil and then level off. The Xw-20 oils shows less wear by comparison. I would not suggest any Xw-40 oil mostly because the drain holes in the heads are marginal for the heavier oils and should there be any sludge build up in those holes, you'll be running with most of the oil in the valve covers and not in the pan. You can easily have an engine full of oil and the engine starving for oil.

If you have a 3V 4.6 engine, it comes with cam phasers. These have not shown to be near the wreck of the the 5.4 phasers and it's probably more due to less stress on them than the larger engine. But they are oil pressure activated and the system is going to be running slightly advanced over specs. I've not seen any real science that says this is going to cause any catastrophic engine failures considering there are a lot of 5.4 running around with failed phasers stuck in full advance. But to avoid the issue and maintain warranty, it's a good idea to use the recommended oil viscosity. If you just can't find a Xw-20 oil, look for a Xw-30 Energy Conserving oil. The actual differences in viscosity is small and should not present any issues. But stick with an oil that the bottle wears the API Starburst AND wears the Ford specs on the back. You'd be surprised how many of the synthetics out there do not meet Fords specs. Remember, if it's not on the bottle, it does not meet specs regardless of makers claims. And while on the subject, unless you are in arctic cold conditions, any synthetic buys you nothing but a lighter wallet. There is no more lubricity in a synthetic over a conventional oil. It won't make your engine go one mile farther either. All of that is advertising hype. The blends are showing the lowest wear metals in analysis.