2010 w/ brake squeal
#16
#17
New here. Same problem with the brakes on my 2010 Lariat Screw 2x4, 3.55 and Sony. Mine has about 4300 miles and it has been squealing for awhile. Local dealer (bought it out of state) sanded/deglazed brakes. Helped for 2 days then came right back. Let it sit in driveway for 8 days around xmas while gone on vacation. Came home and no noise for first day then it came right back. It seems to only do it when it has been sitting for a few hours. Sure hope someone finds an answer to this annoying noise!
#18
#20
Ok kids, heres the deal. The brake squeal isnt the pads grinding off rust, or any other smoke the dealer wants to blow up your ***.
The squeal is caused by the pads and shims vibrating between the rotor and the caliper. The easiest way to fix this is to lube known problem areas. The Hawk website shows this diagram:
You will want to lube the ears of the pad, back of the pad itself, the shim attachments and also the back of the shim where it contacts the pistons/caliper. Doing this instantly cured my squeal, and Ill say, there was a surprising lack of lubrication from the factory. Also bear in mind, if you are hard on the brakes (i.e. frequent towing, mountain descents etc), the lube goes away faster. Also keep in mind, brake pads, like everything else, have an operating range. The coefficient of friction characteristics (i.e. pad characteristics and behavior) changes as temperature changes. Pads that squeal when cold generally are quiet when warm. Street pads generally have a pretty low threshold (100*F) for good operation, whereas race pads are 400*F on up. The ones on my racecar are 600*F to 1600*F if I remember right.
Food for thought.
<- is pretty sure he has partial deafness from years of racing and LOUD race pads.
The squeal is caused by the pads and shims vibrating between the rotor and the caliper. The easiest way to fix this is to lube known problem areas. The Hawk website shows this diagram:
You will want to lube the ears of the pad, back of the pad itself, the shim attachments and also the back of the shim where it contacts the pistons/caliper. Doing this instantly cured my squeal, and Ill say, there was a surprising lack of lubrication from the factory. Also bear in mind, if you are hard on the brakes (i.e. frequent towing, mountain descents etc), the lube goes away faster. Also keep in mind, brake pads, like everything else, have an operating range. The coefficient of friction characteristics (i.e. pad characteristics and behavior) changes as temperature changes. Pads that squeal when cold generally are quiet when warm. Street pads generally have a pretty low threshold (100*F) for good operation, whereas race pads are 400*F on up. The ones on my racecar are 600*F to 1600*F if I remember right.
Food for thought.
<- is pretty sure he has partial deafness from years of racing and LOUD race pads.
#21
#22
Hey guys, I got a little update for ya on my brake problem. I finally got mine to the dealership and they got mine fixed. The service manager said it was a caliper locking up. I didn't have time to ask him to go into details about it, but he put a new caliper on it and now no more squeals.
#23
Same Brake Noise
I too have been having the same problems with my 2010 F-150 Lariat. The same squealing and "oooooh" sound coming from them. I took it to the dealer and they said its was due to fine dust already on the brakes. I do live on a dirt road but my previous SUV didn't make any noises at all. They cleaned it off but it really didn't make a difference at all. Its starting to get worse now. Anyone have suggestions?
#24
I have the same thing happening on my 2008 Fusion. It was happening on my F-150 until I changed to NAPA Adaptive One pads on the front. The only reason I changed the pads was because of the shocking amount of brake dust from the OE pads.
If it only happens on cold mornings for the first few times you apply the brakes, it's considered an acceptable condition. If it squeals all of the time, that's different.
Also, you shouldn't have to grease your pads. Aluminum shims are used to silence the noise generated from pad to caliper, and pad to caliper bracket contact. Since the aluminum is softer, it can rub without making noise. The only part that should be greased when changing pads is the caliper slide pins, but it's usually not necessary unless the boot has torn.
If it only happens on cold mornings for the first few times you apply the brakes, it's considered an acceptable condition. If it squeals all of the time, that's different.
Also, you shouldn't have to grease your pads. Aluminum shims are used to silence the noise generated from pad to caliper, and pad to caliper bracket contact. Since the aluminum is softer, it can rub without making noise. The only part that should be greased when changing pads is the caliper slide pins, but it's usually not necessary unless the boot has torn.
#25
#26
#28
wow - way to revive an ancient thread!
as others have said - its normal. It IS due to the rust on the rotors. It is the rust that causes the pads to vibrate. So greasing the back of the pads could make it go away. And better pads may make it go away - either due to different friction material or due to better materials on the back of the pad that isolate vibrations.
Mine does it once in awhile too... after rain... and I don't care about it...
as others have said - its normal. It IS due to the rust on the rotors. It is the rust that causes the pads to vibrate. So greasing the back of the pads could make it go away. And better pads may make it go away - either due to different friction material or due to better materials on the back of the pad that isolate vibrations.
Mine does it once in awhile too... after rain... and I don't care about it...