I have a 2010 F150 Lariat 2wd and I noticed there is about a 2" cab difference between it and the 4wd. I appears to have about 1.2" difference in clearance as well.
Does the height increase come from: the tires? the spring rates? or some other suspension component? Maybe a spring block or something?
I kind of like the slightly higher cab, but not sure what I'm getting into, would a leveling kit be the answer?
James

 

Different struts on the front that lift the truck, lifting blocks on the rear, and unless your Lariat has the 20" wheels, the 4WD will have larger diameter tires.

 

Thanks EsKayEs, yes I have the 20" wheels, curious if the ride might be improved with the strut change and blocks? I'll do a parts search on those items and see what I come up with.
James

 

No, your ride will stay exactly the same. I added oem blocks to my 2wd, it was extremely easy. Bought them from a guy on here for $50. I'm sure you can find someone that removed theirs and get them cheap.

All you need are the 4x4 oem stuts and oem rear blocks. The blocks were 1 5/8" in the 04 - 08's. Not sure if they've changed at all.

 

I have two blocks I removed from my 2010 4x4.

 

P.s. if you add blocks, don't forget the longer U-bolts. The 2wd ones are not long enough. Also, once stretched, the U-bolts you shouldn't be reused. They can be, but it's safer to buy new ones.

 

Won't change your ride quality at all. All the spring blocks do is raise the truck up and change the center of gravity.

 

Not sure if these are any good but I saved the link in case I get a 2wd.

http://www.justlevelingkits.com/inde...products_id=34

 

I've looked into the Daystar 1" Boost as well as a number of coil spacers, just to get an idea of what to expect.

Right now I'm running 36.5" at the front wheels wells and 39" at the back wheel wells. Guessing I'll be at 38" front after the coil spacers and then check the backs.

The Daystar gets me about 1.5" up front, about the same height as the Coil Spacers, let me see what the Coil Spacer yields and I might try the factory rear blocks too.
James

 

I posted this question on another thread but didn't really get an answer, its relate to this thread so I don't think I'm jacking here.

When removing the shackle blocks where exactly do you place the jack to lift it?

Do you jack up the rear first and then loosen the U-bolts or loosen the bolts and then jack up the rear?

Want to be sure not to kill myself while I'm under there.

thx.

 

I used a pnumatic lift that I have that lifts one end of the truck up a time. It has two pads that hit the reciever hitch. I raised mine up just before the tires came off the ground and then I loosened my u bolts and took them off and then lifted the truck up about 2 inches. I had the truck chocked on the front wheels and the e brake set as well. the axle didn't move, and I slipped the spacers out and set the truck right back down on the axle, and reattached my ubolts. Took me 30 minutes.

 

F1,
What proceedure do you recommend if I'm using a floor jack?
Where should I place the jack?
Do I just loosen the nuts or remove them completly in order to get the blocks out?

I was under there tonight and access to things is easy but I gotta confess I fear this could go terribly wrong if its not done properly.

 

You certainly don't want to drop the truck when your not ready, or have your axle move after you cut it loose. That is why I set the e-brake.

If you only have one jack, then I would look at putting a 4X4 post across your reciever hitch and center the jack on that, then I would have jack stands set on the frame rails to catch if the truck tips side to side. If you have a neighbor that has another jack, that would be better. The key is having the truck stable above the axle, and then just sliding the blocks out and ease it right back down.

I took the nuts completly off the u bolts so I could lift it up enough.

 

I removed the bolts before I jacked up anything. Then put the floor jack on the spring from the rear of the truck, about 1 - 2 inches behind the block. Lift slowly, remove or put the block in place, then move the axle to align the pins and drop the spring. This was the method I was given and it worked well for me. One side at a time.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong (and I hope I am because I'd like to do this) but if you change the struts out in the front to 4x4 struts and the spring sits higher aren't you going to cause a rough angle on your a-arm or ball joint? And even if you don't you won't be able to add a leveling kit because then you will get things all out of whack.

thoughts?