Thank you F1 and greencrew.

I think the greencrew method is a little more manageable for me. I had a look under the truck last night and noticed that there is a 1/4" or 3/8" flat steel plate that is sandwiched between the top of the block and shackle, does this remain after removing the block or can it also be removed?

 

Just be careful that the jack doesn't slip on the spring. I had a little different setup since I had the lift that raised the entire back end of the truck at once, let me do both side at once and not have to move the axle at all. With one jack, you have to get a little more creative.

I only took the spacer blocks out. That is all I did. I didn't remove anything else.

 

Can anyone help me here?

I'm not able to post in the Classifieds yet, but I'm looking for the OEM rear blocks and U-bolts from a 2010 (might be the same as the 2009) F150 4X4. The struts would be great too, but I'm probably going with the Daystar 1" Boost.
Thanks, James

 

The steel plate stays. Your only removing the block itself.

Block out.


Block in

 

Is it possible to adjust the torsion keys under the front of the truck? Seems on my GMC, I was able to raise the truck an inch or so, before I added Ready-Lift keys for the larger tires. They were at the aft end of the Torsion bar on either side.
Looking under my 2010 2wd truck, I don't see a traditional Torsion bar, but there must be "keys" somewhere under the front-end that allow me to make adjustments to either side of the front-end?
James

 

The F-150 doesn't use torsion bars. They use struts on the front which is a much better setup.

 

Hey greencrew,
Nice freak'n pics. Are those shorter U-bolts with the block out? I plan on reusing the original U-bolts, hope I don't run out of thread when I torq the nuts (90ft lbs right?).

 

Yes - those are new shorter U-bolts, but the same nuts. I would have liked to use new nuts, but forgot to order them. 90ft lbs sounds right.

 

The blocks are aligned by pins

 

greencrew,
Good thing you posted this pic of the blocks and U-bolts cause I didn't realize the blocks have that triangular shape attached to the side. That means I have to remove the U-bolts inorder to remove the blocks. Was hoping I could just back off the nuts down to the bottom thread and tap out the blocks.

Can I get away with reusing the longer U-bolts?

 

Does anyone know how much the OEM struts and blocks are from a dealer? Ballpark?

 

The older lift blocks on trucks before 2009 are a different animal! They are thicker and have that arm built into them. The new truck blocks are thinner ( 1-3/16") and do not have the arm on them. The older truck needed shorter bolts, the new truck does not.
I watched Ford dealer remove the blocks and used the old bolts over. The bolts do not have to be removed, just loosen them up and remove the blocks. I keep mine. When I traded the 2004 pickup in on the '10 I gave the blocks and the longer bolts to the dealer.
By the way dealer didn't tork them either, use an air impact wrench on them.....

 

Thanks TJ, that clears that up. Gonna try to make some time this weekend for this mod.

 

jg,
the bolt does not have enough thread to be reused with out the 2" block, at least on the 04-08. I don't know what year your truck is. There is maybe 1 1/8" of thread left. The thread is rolled, so cutting more thread is not a good idea.

The bolts were not all that expensive. the part number on the box for the shorter bolt reads 4L3Z-5705-FA. That is for one U-bolt, so you have to order four of them.

 

The 2WD (no block) bolts are available at TascaParts, and so are the nuts They also have the longer 4WD (block in) U-bolts.