walmart= $ 12.00 5 qt jug mc oil + 2 qt mc oil x = $ 5.54 1 ea mc fl820s oil filter $ 3.76 = $ 21.30

 

it will take me almost a year to put 7500 miles on. Im in the army and expected to deploy when I get to my next unit. I guess I was being cheap at the moment and didnt spend the extra 10 bucks

 

Good to see another military person on here. Ive been in the Air Force for 10 years and stationed up at Andrews outside of DC. This is a good site but if you dont agree with certain people they will just laugh at you, its either their way or its the wrong way, lol. Keep doing what your doing man. Mobil puts out a great product as well as the Motorcraft in terms of oil. For me ive always been a M1 guy and always will be based on the UOAs. Like I mentioned before go to bobistheoilguy.com and read about that oil filter though.

 

It's the standard M1 5w30 that was failing the tests, the 5W20 is fine. However, at 50 cents a quart more, the EP is a complete no-brainer to me - it has considerably more true synthetic content. That's what I'm using, along with a M1 filter.

Standard M1 is really not much better than the Motorcraft semi-syn.

 

I just drained the oil and Ill tell ya what,

The oil was like water, it was dark brown in color that you would see after 3500 miles on a standard oil.

 

Does anyone know what the factory fill is? I read the manual and it calls for synthetic blend or full synthetic. I'm not one to assume anything, so are they implying that is what is in it from the factory?

 

The factory fill is 5W20 Motorcraft synthetic blend.

 

Thanks

 

got the oil changed out today with the fresh mobil1 5/20 fully synthetic.. installed the fram xtra guard filter.

Turned on the truck and oil pressure registered right away. went for a drive after and thumbs up..

Now tomorrow i gotta climb the roof and clean the pine needles out the gutters. Im visiting home in mississippi from my home away from home in huntsville alabama

 

Prior USAF here... I've used MC 5W20 on my '01 5.4L XLT, '02 Mustang GT and '07 4.6L STX and I have NEVER had an issue with the oil. Just use a FL820S and you'll be fine.

 

I would stick with the Ford filters and use Castrol Syntec. I do use this as it can get quite cold up here in the Great White North.

My other car is a 2002 Boxster S in which I had the motor rebuilt ($12.000, previous owner overfilled by 4 litres; bought it this way) and the rebuilder recommended I start using Castrol Syntec after 5,000 KM on the rebuild. He has seen what M1 has done to these engines and has noted that Castrol is a better oil today. I may change tomorrow, but today, this is what he recommends. I have the luxury of meeting him through my friends Indy Porsche shop ... I get to see more and hear more. Once my P-Car & F150 have broken in ... I will switch to Castrol Syntec. Costco here sells them pretty cheap ...

My previous ride was a 2008 Edge LYD AWD and using Castrol did improve the milage a slight bit. I also had faster start when below freezing as well as a smoother idle.

Of course all of this can be taken with a grain of salt ... but this is what I have learned from those that rebuild engines as well as repair autos. On a Boxster forum, a major rebuilder has found fault with the M1 that Porsche recommends with the 3.2 & 3.4 Litre motors. He recommends Castrol Syntec in the viscosity for your climate.

 

125K miles on my 2002 5.3L Silverado before I sold it and had been using Mobil1 since its first oil change. I bet if I had an opportunity to open the motor up, there would be almost no wear.

What was at fault with the mobil1? I am interested in some factual information on how the proper weight and amount of mobile1 Full SYN has been bad for an engine.

 

Everyone prefers their own flavor of oil. I think the point most are making is that MC has been proven to be a great oil for the price. However, the biggest concern is using the Fram oil filter. For more info Google "orange can of death." This came to light mainly with the previous generation 5.4 cam phaser issues.

 

Royal Purple....The End

 

The standard M1 5W30 had a problem.

This only caused problems in OHC engines. Your Chebby wasn't OHC. Ford Tritons are OHC.

The 5W20 is fine. So is the 5W30 EP.