Wonder why some of them seem to be okay and others not. I did notice this afternoon that jumping straight on the highway seems to make it cool off faster. So it seems like it's going to be a cfm issue. Wonder if there are any differences between the ones that seem to work okay and ones that do not.

I have a lariat screw with tow package (small trans cooler).

 

Looks like there is a run of suspect vehicles here. It is actually good that there are some that work great, because that gives me hope that it is not a design issue that can't be fixed. We just need to pinpoint what changed. Sounds like a part or piece, or process changed and has affected this.
Of the people on here who are having this issue, do you know when your truck was built?
Mine was built on June 2nd and I got it on June 15th. The month and year is stamped on the drivers side sticker on the inside of the door.
It is an XLT Super Cru, without NAV or Climate control, just normal *****. Built in Dearborn

 

Mine is 03/10.

 

I don't so much have a problem but I live in Canada. This seems to me like a bad design. The fan seems very weak and as was mentioned it isn't cold like many other vehicles. My wife's Mazda6 will freeze your ***** off. I need to turn mine up to fan level 3 to cool the truck off when it's 24C outside. I'd be worried in Texas or another southern state.

-Frozen

 

It's been nearing 100* these past few days here in Texas and driving it yesterday I had to have it cranked up to 4 on Max AC and it still didn't cool that well. I bought it on the tail end of Summer last year, so I didn't have to run the AC too much before winter rolled around.

 

Had some 105 days here a few days ago and AC worked as expected. I think people are expecting to much from the AC systems. You can't compare the way a car cools compared to a truck. Yes our smaller cars cool faster also but they also have a lot less air space to cool. A good trick is to open your windows for a few seconds to clear out that warm air as it's going to take the AC a while to circulate that warm air and cool it off. Like said before our white RR Sport cools in about the same time as my platinum but my platinum def takes a little longer as there's a lot more room inside the truck. Also don't forget to at least triple how long it takes to cool a black model over a white version.

 

I have a 2010 Lariat Screw (red, in case it matters). I live in Florida, only have factory tint on the back windows, no tint on the front right now, truck stays outside all the time with no shade cover, and I've never had a problem with the A/C not getting cold enough. I do drive with my windows down and the AC seats on most of the time, but the times I do have the windows rolled up and the AC on it gets plenty cold enough for me. I realize that I'm an oddball in this category as I only use AC less than half the time in my own apartment in Florida, so I'm not picky when it comes to AC but still

 

Make sure your compressor is staying engaged. Several years ago, I had a 3 month old Explorer that would get hot as hades in heavy traffic. I discovered the air gap on the compressor clutch was too wide and and had difficulty engaging once it got hot. I replaced a couple of shims to get the proper spacing and all was right with the world. I know the new trucks have electric cooling fans. At least one of those fans should be running when the a/c is on to draw air through the condenser.

 

Guys, I paid attention to what mine does yesterday. Left work at 100 degrees in texas. It took about 5 minutes to get the cab comfortable. I put it on max ac on one notch below full fan speed and dropped my rear window an inch. I didn't have the problems you are suggesting. By the time I got home, the ac was on level 2-3 and very comfortable. Not gloating but just wanted you to know maybe something needs to be looked into for you. I also have a black truck, so added heat on first start up.

I ran my hand down into the vent and it was pretty chilly. Sorry I don't have means to measure temps but will try with a hand held thermometer

2010 Supercrew Tuxedo Black

 

Check to make sure your "Auto" button is on, and set the temp to 72 and leave it. I don't use the MAX setting as I've never had luck with it. I found if I use Max then change the temp it never puts "Auto" back on and then it never gets cold (as you are describing). When leaving it at 72 and Auto on in 100 degree temps in AR, my black FX4 Screw is cool in about a minute and the air from the vents if *cold*. After 5 minutes or so the fan cycles down and the cab is at temperature.

 

I work in the ammonia (nh3) refrigeration field and have no complaints with mine. I actually have to turn it down cuz it's to cold, and that's with high humidity and ambient temps in the 80's. Tonite I'll probe the air off temp just to see but after reading several threads on this subject I suspect some trucks left the factory undercharged with 134a.

 

Something for you all to try. I drove through town on my way home today with the tow/haul turned on. My AC seemed a little better. So maybe it's a combination of low RPM/idle and small fans.

 

my a/c works great so good the wife is always whining that its too cold and i live in the high desert in calif.

 

Mine seems to be Kick-A$$. 90* with 95% humidtitty and on the lowest setting in my Scab I'm practically chilly. I drive with my window cracked also cuz I smoke. I do have tinted widows tho. They really do make one hellava difference. I use one of those front widow 'sun-shades' and to doubters, don't knock them till you try them. The cab stays at least 20* cooler and it prevents the dashboard from becoming a heat absorbing radiator. If the truck is cooler when you enter, it only stands to reason it takes less energy to cool it down more.

Wonder if the same unit is used in all models? You know, Regular Cab, SuperCab and SuperCrew? The Screw has lots more area to cool.

 

Yes! My 2010 Lariat Screw is the same way. It pisses me off. My 5 year old Mustang is MUCH better when it comes to the air conditioning! I do love the cooled seats though!